Questions concerning "Lifting on a Budget"

[Chuck "Classic Ford" JR.]

So I read the tech article on TRS titled "Lifting Your Ranger on a Budget" and I like the ideas of the spacers in the front and the 4x4 blocks in the back. I was wondering if anyone out there has actually done this to their truck and if so, how difficult was it to do? I have a 1986 Ranger base model, single cab 2WD (2.9L if that makes any difference). I've visited many local junkyards and for whatever reason, 4x4 Rangers are a rarity in salvage yards, so is there anywhere I can actually purchase the 4x4 blocks and U-bolts for the rear? I want to lift my Ranger a bit but not go crazy and have to start thinking about steering column extensions and other steering problems. If anyone can help me out with some answers to my questions I'd very much appreciate it!!!

 

[Sweet-85']

I'm currently in the process of doing a "budget" lift on my 84 Bronco II now. I'm using 2" lift/lowering blocks from Oreillys for the rear (like $30), and my buddy is going to cut 2.5" spacers for the front from spare bar stock he has around. Keep an eye on my build thread, I'll post some pics after I'm finished, it shouldn't be too difficult...


Sent by using a 9v battery, tin foil, and a dirty sock.

 

[Chuck "Classic Ford" JR.]

I'm currently in the process of doing a "budget" lift on my 84 Bronco II now. I'm using 2" lift/lowering blocks from Oreillys for the rear (like $30), and my buddy is going to cut 2.5" spacers for the front from spare bar stock he has around. Keep an eye on my build thread, I'll post some pics after I'm finished, it shouldn't be too difficult...

Got a link?

 

[Chuck "Classic Ford" JR.]

Also, how hard is it to get the front coil springs off on the first generation Rangers/Bronco II's? I've looked at the Ford shop manual for a 92 Ranger (which is the earliest still available from Ford) and the photos and directions are a bit confusing. It sucks because, although I work for Ford and thus have access to their entire literature library as well as certain special tools at school, I can't find ANYTHING on my truck from them.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

It can be a pain to access the nut. I usually use lots of wd40 for a few days before. I'll go thru the top with a 1/2" drive extension/s to the 1 1/8" nut and use a breaker bar, then a ratchet. Sometimes a wrench will work thru the coil. Remove shock and sway bar connection. Contain the spring extension with the proper tool and then drop the beam. The spring should twist out.

Richard

 

[Chuck "Classic Ford" JR.]

That's a big nut. I didn't know it was so large. Also, where can I find such a tool to keep the spring compressed?

 

[Broncojumper87]

I didnt use a tool when I removed mine. Just put a jack under the beam and it was good to go.

 

[Chuck "Classic Ford" JR.]

I know the coil springs have a lot of pressure on them, would it not come flying out when you let the jack down to remove the spring?

 

[Broncojumper87]

No I barley had any pressure on mine once it was unbolted it damn near fell out on its own.

 

[bobbywalter]

jack it up at the frame to unload the spring. with the shock/swaybars disconected it will unload easy.

 

[Broncojumper87]

This is what I did^^^^^^^

 

[Chuck "Classic Ford" JR.]

Thanks for the help guys, I read up on coil spring R&R and it's not quite as difficult as I once thought. Another question: by adding 2" spacers to the front coil springs and swapping in the 2" rear spacers and U-bolts from a 4x4, will I need longer shocks as well?

 

[swynx]

Longer shocks. New degree bushings and an alignment

 

[dinosore]

My stock size shocks are adequate but have less up travel, due to the lift obviously, which will kill the shocks earlier but they were only a few months old when i did the lift so figured why not ride em till they die. i needed 2 1/2 +- camber bushings to achieve proper alignment. If you feel comfortable to replace those prior to taking to the alignment shop, thats what I did.

 

[bobbywalter]

if your springs are beat you can get away with 2 degree bushings in general....the adjustable units are the ones i prefer.


the 2 in spring spacer usually nets 3 in of lift ime....so i would suggest front shock extenders if you have fresh shocks. they are usually at the auto zone type stores for 5-15 bux along with the rear shackle/block kits. but if you plan on off roading or spirited driving use factory rear blocks or the longer shackles and an add a leaf....