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Questions about Dana 30 Swap into 88 2wd.


iant333

Member
ASE Certified Tech
Joined
Sep 25, 2021
Messages
7
City
Northeast
Vehicle Year
1988
Transmission
Manual
I have an 88 2wd that I'm adamant about converting to 4wd, don't just tell me to just buy one that is 4wd already. ;)

The final plan for the truck is to have like a 2-3" lift, 31's. It's not gonna be a trail monster but I'm hoping for this to be my forever truck project. Daily drivable, light farm use, light trail use.

Can a D30 be fit on a truck that low if I trim the unused bracketry off of the crossmember? Everyone else I see has the SAS trucks lifted to the sky. Obviously going to need proper bumpstops but would lets say 3" of lift give enough suspension travel for regular use? I don't want a super high truck since it's going to be used 95% on road.

Putting in a D30 seems like an easier (hah) solution to me than swapping crossmembers, does this seem reasonable? I have experience with welding long arm suspensions on Jeeps and I didn't find it all that hard.

Another point is that even if I want to swap crossmembers, finding a frame or donor that isn't rusted into dust near me is going to be hard, but XJ and YJ front axles are a dime a dozen and the rest of the stuff I need I can just buy new or is easy to order from a junkyard. Honestly sourcing parts is always the biggest headache for me.
 
My understanding is that the crossmember is usually a big deal in converting a rwd Ranger into a 4x4. You not only need room for axle and suspension, but also for the front drives haft to get from transfer case to the pinion flange. We have quite a few articles in our tech library concerning axle swaps and suspension. You may want to begin with this article.
 
My understanding is that the crossmember is usually a big deal in converting a rwd Ranger into a 4x4. You not only need room for axle and suspension, but also for the front drives haft to get from transfer case to the pinion flange. We have quite a few articles in our tech library concerning axle swaps and suspension. You may want to begin with this article.
Yeah I read it already but it doesnt answer the questions I asked. Mostly im wondering about clearance around the rwd crossmember, and the relative utility of the swap vs swapping crossmembers, or making my own crossmember.
 
You will possibly trim the flange of the k member In the front for Trac bar and for diff room...

Leaf or coil. With coil making a Trac bar mount limits how low you can go...

These choices dictate what's necessary in regards to making a custom k member over trimming stock.

A wj axle works great for mid to taller lifts because of high steer knuckle.

Your lowrider goals can do leaf or coil with low pinion axle and y link steering.
 
Ok thanks for the reply. Yeah the WJ also has better 2 pot brakes but im not sure if the steering geometry would work on a 2" lift. XJ/TJ brakes should be fine though, the XJ is like 400lbs heavier than this truck anyways.

If I get a TJ or XJ low pinion front, do I need to cut off the coil buckets or is the stock spacing good enough to use on the Ranger? It would be awesome if I could get away with buying a Jeep longarm kit and just welding the brackets onto the Ranger frame, trimming the crossmember a bit, adding a trackbar mount and thats about it.

I think the low pinion front is def the way to go, way more driveshaft clearance snd still plenty strong for my purposes.

Ill also probably get an Explorer 8.8 rear, mostly to match widths with the front, the XJ axle is like 3in wider than my 7.5. But basically swap the two of them, regear one to match up if needed, new transmission and tcase, 2 custom driveshafts and bam, its a 4x4.
 
Yeah...iron man type arms with brackets bolted to frame work ok. But staying low can present challenges depending on chassis.

There is a myriad of ways for Trac bar.


For staying low...
Usually inverted leafs work well.. or duff style arms and c wedges welded to axle.

There should be several d30 builds here with a high degree of variance.
 
I have seen it take months....or hours.

Planning and study are important.

Scope of main use goals is Paramount.

I can install a d 30 on a factory front driveshaft faster then the average diy guy can install a ttb lift.

Not bragging.... But it is not complicated ... At all.

People like to bag on the d 30... But it is perfect for your application.
 


Something like that or ruff stuff for coils.

I wonder how easy it would be to adapt something like like an Artec or TMR crossmember - after that I think you'd be able to work through things relatively easily to go 4 link or 3 link using their crossmembers and pre-set link geometry
 
There was a setup that literally bolted right on ttb chassis Some years back ..they were radius arms with adjustable top links to dial in caster. Meant for xj...

You would lose a little steering angle but not as bad as eb setup bolted on. Just make a channel spreader with hangers bolted to it. 1/2 in angle bolted to frame with box spacer for Trac bar same as my bronco.

Did a few s blazer and S10 and rbv....and they converted some yj similarly.

Ironman comes to mind...but I don't see those arms there.

The duff c wedges require some shimming on the smaller tubes, but I think they make a wedge for the later Jeep HD 44 axles.
 
I like to dog on the D30 for sure but it's way easier than TTB 4x4 swapping a 2wd Ranger. Normally I would say don't bother and go straight to a Dana 44 or bigger but most people want 35s or larger tires...for a small tire rig with a 4 cylinder like yours the D30 is a great choice, just keep in mind you built it for small tires so if you want bigger ones at some point it may be easier to just start with a better axle.
 

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