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Questions about 4.0L OHV headgasket replacement and engine rebuilding.


When you pulled yours did you bring the trans out with it? I don’t have much experience with pulling motors from the top unfortunately. Every engine I’ve ever replaced I’ve dropped out the bottom and most of the motors I’ve rebuilt were inside the car.
Only time I’ve done the engine and trans together is when I’m replacing both. Ideally you want the core support out to do that. I’ve done that both ways and it’s way easier with the core support out, but that’s a lot of extra work if you don’t need to pull both.

It can be a little bit of a pain getting the torque converter bolts out since you have to do it through the starter hole, but there’s only 4 of them.

Pulling the accessories, fan and upper intake gives you tons of room for pulling the motor. Not necessary, but for the little extra work, it’s worth it.

An engine leveler and an engine lift makes it nice. I’ve pulled them with chains and a machine though as well. That depends a lot on operator skill though as to how well it goes. Actually, a crank style leveler and a chain hoist would probably be the most ideal but I don’t have a gantry at the moment to do that.
 
Only time I’ve done the engine and trans together is when I’m replacing both. Ideally you want the core support out to do that. I’ve done that both ways and it’s way easier with the core support out, but that’s a lot of extra work if you don’t need to pull both.

It can be a little bit of a pain getting the torque converter bolts out since you have to do it through the starter hole, but there’s only 4 of them.

Pulling the accessories, fan and upper intake gives you tons of room for pulling the motor. Not necessary, but for the little extra work, it’s worth it.

An engine leveler and an engine lift makes it nice. I’ve pulled them with chains and a machine though as well. That depends a lot on operator skill though as to how well it goes. Actually, a crank style leveler and a chain hoist would probably be the most ideal but I don’t have a gantry at the moment to do that.

Thank you for the information. I’m probably going to either buy an engine hoist or rent one. Before I do all that I’m going to mess around with trying to get the oil pan out without pulling the motor. If I can get it without too much trouble I might just rebuild it in the car just so I don’t have to deal with getting an engine hoist to my house. If I do pull it are the torque converter bolts something I can reuse or should I replace them. I’m assuming replace because I know the Volvo ones would get pulled when you took them out and would back out if you reused them.
 
Thank you for the information. I’m probably going to either buy an engine hoist or rent one. Before I do all that I’m going to mess around with trying to get the oil pan out without pulling the motor. If I can get it without too much trouble I might just rebuild it in the car just so I don’t have to deal with getting an engine hoist to my house. If I do pull it are the torque converter bolts something I can reuse or should I replace them. I’m assuming replace because I know the Volvo ones would get pulled when you took them out and would back out if you reused them.
I’ve always just re-used them. If I remember correctly, they’re actually a flange nut and there are studs on the torque converter. Not saying that’s the right way, but it’s what I’ve done.

If I remember correctly as well, with the TTB front suspension and the engine crossmember and stuff, there just isn’t enough room to wiggle the pan out without lifting the motor was usually the problem. If you have to pick up the motor, you might as well just finish pulling it.
 
You will need the transmission out of the truck if you want to remove the oil pan with the engine in place.
 
I guess I’m pulling this thing. Today I got off most of the stuff I need in order to pull it, I just need to buy special tool to completely get the ac lines off. I saw a video where a guy bolted a tool to his intake then hooked up his crane to there to pull it. Is that a good way to do it?
 
I guess I’m pulling this thing. Today I got off most of the stuff I need in order to pull it, I just need to buy special tool to completely get the ac lines off. I saw a video where a guy bolted a tool to his intake then hooked up his crane to there to pull it. Is that a good way to do it?

I usually run a chain diagonally over the engine from the rear passenger side head to the front driver's side head. There are threaded holes in the heads that you can use.

I guess I would be a little nervous about lifting it by the upper intake alone.
 
I usually run a chain diagonally over the engine from the rear passenger side head to the front driver's side head. There are threaded holes in the heads that you can use.

I guess I would be a little nervous about lifting it by the upper intake alone.
Yeah I wasn’t sure if it was a common way or not. Does look a lot easier to do it that way but I don’t think I’m going to take the risk.
 
@Maxsaaty
I've reused stock Ford valves that were measured within spec., house brand OEM replacement valves are more than adequate for a rebuild however if you want to go above that FARINA makes great product.

Yes, pulling at least the engine is the route I would plan.

I looked at the 12° North website, while I have no direct experience with them...from my machinist's mouth, with roller lifters, adding roller to ker will not improve much; he calls it less practical than the normal "diminished returns" situation. Also, moons seems to have a great reputation of producing roller rockers set ups for this OHV engine family, I certainly can not recommend it

There are improvements to be made to the valve train, just not by adding extra rollers ..)
 
@Maxsaaty
I've reused stock Ford valves that were measured within spec., house brand OEM replacement valves are more than adequate for a rebuild however if you want to go above that FARINA makes great product.

Yes, pulling at least the engine is the route I would plan.

I looked at the 12° North website, while I have no direct experience with them...from my machinist's mouth, with roller lifters, adding roller to ker will not improve much; he calls it less practical than the normal "diminished returns" situation. Also, moons seems to have a great reputation of producing roller rockers set ups for this OHV engine family, I certainly can not recommend it

There are improvements to be made to the valve train, just not by adding extra rollers ..)
Thank you for your reply. I think I’m going to buy a bare head so I’ll check out Farina for the valves. From looking into the 12degnorth listing, the roller rockers are just resold morana parts. I have the engine ready to pull just waiting on a hoist now. My plan is going to be putting in either promaxx or Clearwater heads with upgraded springs and the comp cam 410. Assuming the valve train is worn done, do you have any recommendations for lifters and rockers?
 
@Maxsaaty
I've reused stock Ford valves that were measured within spec., house brand OEM replacement valves are more than adequate for a rebuild however if you want to go above that FARINA makes great product.

Yes, pulling at least the engine is the route I would plan.

I looked at the 12° North website, while I have no direct experience with them...from my machinist's mouth, with roller lifters, adding roller to ker will not improve much; he calls it less practical than the normal "diminished returns" situation. Also, moons seems to have a great reputation of producing roller rockers set ups for this OHV engine family, I certainly can not recommend it

There are improvements to be made to the valve train, just not by adding extra rollers ..)
I’m looking for Farina and can’t seem to find them. Is there a specific website?
 
@Maxsaaty
I'm a horrible speller, sometimes my regonal tounge makes it worse...FERREA. Valves, should not be hard to locate.

I'm a big fan of Reconditioned heads. To date the reconditioned heads I've bought came with valves that were within tolerance for a rebuild at no extra charge. While Ferrea valves are great, simple OEM house brand are more than adequate, unless your building a race specific engine.

My Ranger's 2.9l runs a little over 12:1 compression ratio on stock valves.
 
@Maxsaaty
I'm a horrible speller, sometimes my regonal tounge makes it worse...FERREA. Valves, should not be hard to locate.

I'm a big fan of Reconditioned heads. To date the reconditioned heads I've bought came with valves that were within tolerance for a rebuild at no extra charge. While Ferrea valves are great, simple OEM house brand are more than adequate, unless your building a race specific engine.

My Ranger's 2.9l runs a little over 12:1 compression ratio on stock valves.
Ah haha I kinda thought you meant Ferrea. I went ahead and ordered the Clearwater heads because I was able to get them on discount. I’ll have to see how the valves look but as I get into this engine everything is looking better than expected, so I’ll have to see how the valves are looking and I may reuse them with new springs.
 
Since I have the engine apart is it worth it to buy a comp cam or send in my old cam to Delta cams? I’m also looking at pacesetter headers or Hedman headers to go with it.
 

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