Question re: removing rear driveshaft of '94 4wd 5 speed Ranger 3.0L

[boonew]

Hello! Novice mechanic here and first time poster.

I need to replace the clutch on a Ranger, and this is my first time working both on a transmission and on a Ranger. I've been watching videos on youtube but quickly ran into an issue where I'm not sure how to proceed with the removal of the rear driveshaft.

I'm working under a mentor and they expected the rear drive shaft to easily pull out of the transfer case after disconnecting the rear side of the rear drive shaft. However this was not the case.

My question is a simple one: Should the drive shaft pull out easily (and is therefore just stuck in place)? Or do I need to disconnect the front of the rear drive shaft as well as the rear of it?

This is what I'm looking at:

If I do need to disconnect the drive shaft from the transfer case, I presume those 4 bolts will do the trick? If so, what's the best way to get them off? There's barely enough room to put a socket over them, and definitely not enough room to attach a wrench to that socket.

Thanks for reading, I appreciate your consideration!

Cheers,
Boone

 

[pjtoledo]

yep, those 4 bolts.
by the way, they are real tight in there. had loctite on them from the factory.

couple of choices,
boxed end of combination wrench with a pipe or cheater bar on it. don't use a cheap wrench.
if you take the other end off first you may be able to swing the shaft around to get clearance for a socket.

 

[boonew]

yep, those 4 bolts.
by the way, they are real tight in there. had loctite on them from the factory.

couple of choices,
boxed end of combination wrench with a pipe or cheater bar on it. don't use a cheap wrench.
if you take the other end off first you may be able to swing the shaft around to get clearance for a socket.

Thanks! Really appreciate the help!

 

[Shran]

Matco, Snap-on and Sunex (and maybe Gray Pneumatic) make a 12mm swivel impact socket specifically for those bolts. Super handy if you think you might be removing/installing them more than once. My favorite is the 3/8 drive one from Matco. Part #BUP12M2B, spendy at $52 though

Hammer and a box end wrench will get them loose...12mm Gearwrench will get them the rest of the way on the cheap.

No need to worry about marking its orientation with the axle-t-case flanges, the shaft is balanced by itself so it doesn't matter how it goes back on.

 

[bobbywalter]

That's the easy part ....those 4 bolts.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I’ve removed my share. Impact gun and the swivel socket that’s for the purpose works the best. A 12 point impact socket and wobble extension with an impact is about as good. Socket, wobble extension and ratchet/breaker bar can work. 12mm box end wrench and a 4 lb deadblow mallet works too. Gotta be careful the wrench is well seated and you hit dead on though. Cheater pipe or buddy wrench is an option. Factory locktite sucks on these. I usually wire brush the threads a bit and use blue locktite.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I cant remember running across locktight on those, but mostly old stuff i work on and maybe has been off before. Heat will help if there is locktight.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I've always seen yellow loctite on those bolts... a little heat (even a minute with a butane torch helps...), a 12mm 12pt wrench and a hammer will get the job done...

The front driveshaft doesn't just pull out either... I think the T case end on those are 8mm or 5/16" (they're the same, pick one...)

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I've always seen yellow loctite on those bolts... a little heat (even a minute with a butane torch helps...), a 12mm 12pt wrench and a hammer will get the job done...

The front driveshaft doesn't just pull out either... I think the T case end on those are 8mm or 5/16" (they're the same, pick one...)

Yup, yellow locktite is what I’ve seen. Which is worse than the red stuff which is worse than the blue.

Some years/versions have a front shaft that pulls out of the transfer case and some don’t. Most RBVs seem to bolt both shafts in though

 

[fixizin]

So none of the RKIs think those U-joints need any attention?... just wondering... tryin' to learn.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

So none of the RKIs think those U-joints need any attention?... just wondering... tryin' to learn.

Can’t really tell from a picture. If the joint itself has play, then it needs replaced. If it’s a joint with a grease fitting it should get a pump or two on a regular basis