Q's on tightening up a D35 TTB - bushings, u-joints and bearings

[GoMopar440]

As you may have guessed by my username, I've dealt with Mopars a lot more than I have anything else. I just picked up a 94 B4000 4x4 and I'm trying to get it to where I can trust it as a daily driver before the fall semester starts. Right now I'm waiting on a new drop pitman arm and some Nitro shocks to come in the mail. I'll also be picking up a new steering gear box on payday since the old pitman arm messed up the splines on the steering output shaft. Pretty much straight forward stuff so far.

While I was looking around the front end of the truck, I noticed a few other things that also need attention. Most of it is in or on the D35 TTB axle, which I have zero experience with. I bought a Chiltons manual for the truck, but it's vague on so much stuff I may as well just use the pages for wiping up oil spills.

Anyway, back to the axle. Here's what I found so far:
- center u-joint has no needles left in it (have a new one, need to install it)
- driver side axle bearing has some up-down play in it (have a new one, need to install it)
- axle housing pivot bushings are worn out
- radius arm pivot bushings are worn out
- front diff is leaking fluid and needs to be resealed

Does anyone here know where I can find some better instructions or even just some videos showing the procedure to rebuild a D35 TTB? The truck already has a Rough Country 4" suspension lift on it, so that's something I have to keep in mind when dealing with anything on the front end.

As far as the bushings for the axle housings and the radius arms, I was thinking of just getting OEM rubber type ones. This is going to be a DD, not really an off road toy, so I was thinking of trying to keep the ride a bit softer than the poly bushings would. Am I wrong in thiking this way? I'd aprecciate any opinions (either way) on the subject of rubber vs poly bushing material.

I have a shop lined up to do the alignment after I get all this stuff taken care of. They've got just about every available size of the adjuster bushings for the ball joints in stock, so there shouldn't be any issues there. They'll probably need them to fix the camber issue on the truck.

 

[t0x1k]

Rubber bushings are nice, but if you go with rubber you will have to press out the sleeve that is in each arm.
Poly bushings are sold where you reuse the sleeve that's left in the arm after you burn out the old rubber bushing.
The radius arm bushings can be rubber, but be prepare to possibly replace the cross-member if its worn out.

The front end is no different then a solid axle, just some extra bushings and u joints. Unless you plan on rebuild the chunk, everything is straight forward. Most important part is making sure the passenger axle shafts are in sync.

This is a dana 44, ignore the part numbers. But does a good job explaining where everything goes.

You could also throw a stack of washers under the front coils and level it out and eliminate most if not all of the camber issues.

 

[4x4junkie]

Here's a diagram for the D28 which is a bit more similar to the D35:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/diagrams/d28.gif



As for rubber vs. poly bushings... As already mentioned, poly beam pivot bushings are easier to install, provided the steel sleeve isn't damaged. Rubber vs. poly isn't going to make a tremendous difference in ride smoothness though (shocks/springs will have far greater effect), mostly they allow a bit better control due to less deflection. Poly ones are also said to last longer than rubber, though I've seen either one needing replacement within 10 or so year's time.

As for your camber issue, that definitely looks like it's sagging and needs taller springs (or coil spacers). I would suggest getting the ride height up to par before you try aligning it.

This page talks about ride height of the suspension:
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Spring2003/TTBTuning.htm

 

[GoMopar440]

Thank you both for the axle parts break down pics. That definately helps a lot.

The truck currently sits level front to back with the 4" suspension lift on it and I'd like to keep it that way. Here's the best side view pic I have of it.

Wouldn't adding the washers under the coils raise the front of the truck?

As for poly vs rubber bushings? I have an oxy/acetlyne torch as well as a 12 ton hydraulic press so I've got the tools to get the job done either way. I do like the idea of the easier install with the poly bushings and think I may just go that route. I ordered a full set of new nitro shocks last week and they should be here in a day or two. The Nitro shocks were recommended due to the extreme cold temps we see up here in Montana (we saw -44 last year). While on the topic of temperature, would the cold temps make a difference as far as the poly vs rubber debate goes?

The chunk is being left alone for now other than resealing it to the housing to cure the leak. As long as it looks good when I have it off that is...

I plan to mark the shafts before they come out to make sure they go back in the same way.




And before anyone asks, there is no body lift on the truck. The first pic I posted might have been a bit misleading due to the gap between the bumper and the grill. That's because there aren't any brackets holding the bumper on. The PO tied the bumper on with an old red battery cable in the middle and one long bolt in each end of the bumper.

 

[brinker88]

I'd try getting a new set of 4" coils dude. And I happen to have an extra set for sale. PM me if youre interested.

 

[4x4junkie]

You can get a set of extended shackles to raise the rear a bit, but yes, coil spacers/longer coils will raise the front of the truck up a bit. It will make aligning that frontend 10× easier (not to mention will give you much more axle clearance too).


FWIW, here's an actual D35 exploded view:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/sfr4x4/gif/D35.gif

I've submitted it for Jim to place it here in the Tech Library.

 

[GoMopar440]

I'd try getting a new set of 4" coils dude. And I happen to have an extra set for sale. PM me if youre interested.

Sent you a PM.

I've recently had the entire front axle pretty much completely rebuilt. It now has all new U-joints, new axle seals, all new ball joints, axle pivots (rubber) and radius arm bushings poly). The gears checked out good so they weren't touched. I still have a little negative camber after the alignment, but not as much as before. It drives pretty good, with just a very, very slight pull to the right if I let go of the wheel.

Before:

After:

Looks like I will be needing a new set of front coils after all. I just ordered a winch bumper to replace the floppy stocker that's dangling on there now. It should weigh about 70-80 lbs, and my winch is probably another 50-60 lbs (steel cable on it).

Here's a pic of the bumper from the guy making it:

Thats enough extra weight to have to compensate for, that I'll just wait until I get the bumper and winch installed before I mess with the coils and camber issues. No point in fixing it now, and then having to redo it all over again a month from now when the bumper gets here.

 

[4x4junkie]

You probably should get the longer drop pitman arm on there (Skyjacker pt# FA600), I see your steering linkage angle still pulled up quite high (and will only get worse after you bring the frontend up to where it should be with the new coils/coil spacers).

 

[GoMopar440]

I'll probably just get the Superrunner steering kit if I have any steering issues after the coil swap. It may not be the cheapest route, but seems to be the most reliable for a mild 4" lift like mine.

 

[brinker88]

Correcting the steering MIGHT even correct that camber issue.