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Putting motor back in...Right now..


cdxhizors

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2015
Messages
86
City
Bloomington, IN
Vehicle Year
1997
Transmission
Manual
So both the motor and transmission are out of my ranger(transfercase still attached to the transmission)

How should I drop these in? Will they go in from the top fine or will it be too long? I'm doing it myself or else I would put the transmission back in from the bottom as I dropped it out before. I thought if I removed both radius arm brackets I could get it to clear easily but I'd have to worry about the axle falling forward or rearward. Any thoughts or suggestions???

Edit: Motor is a 4.0l ohv...Upper intake is removed for installation..transmission is m5odr1 with shifter removed.
 
That's alot of weight for a hoist.
And alot of lift is required unless you remove the rad support.

Alone it will be tough to maneuver motor/trans/transfer case into place

Removing the transfer case will make it much easier.

Motor/trans shouldn't be a problem, if you have enough lift.
 
My hoist could lift it no problem..Height isn't too big of a problem, I'll be doing it outside so no ceiling to run into and the hoist is a diesel hoist so it's pretty tall. Ran into a stupid problem...The nut on the egr line won't come off on the manifold side. I need to replace the line and figure it'll be easier done outside the truck. I've pb blasted it and heated it with a propane torch and still wont come off. Ideas?
 
Hotter torch (Mapp gas maybe?) And a longer wrench./ cheater bar.

If that don't work, get a nut cracker and break the nut. You might also be able to grind a groove into the nut with a dremel tool and take a cold chisel and hammer to the groove.

If all else fails, cuss it out. Won't solve the problem but will make you feel better :)

AJ

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 while sitting in my underwear
 
I read about cutting the tube and using a socket with a breaker bar.. How bad would it be if I removed the pipe fitting between the tube and manifold?
 
I'd try a large adjustable wrench (at least a 12" one, 15" would be better)... The EGR tubes that are nutted on both sides IIRC are not that hard to get aftermarket so if you had to cut it and use a socket/impact it wouldn't be the end of the world (unlike my 1995 3.0 which blew said tube; only way to get one was a $100+ NOS motorcraft unit on ebay).

Otherwise, PB blast/rust penatrant/kroil, heat, and candle wax (as mentioned above) are your friends here.
 

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