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**Problem Fixed** Help! Rough idle, one bank dead...


CLJustin407

Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2019
Messages
9
City
Deltona, FL
Vehicle Year
2003
Engine
2.9 V6
Transmission
Manual
Hey!

Im new to the forum, great place. I have a 2003 ranger 2wd, 3.0 V6 (220K) with a rough idle (will stall without throttle input) and is incredibly hard to get started (driver side headers stay cold compared to pass side), it will almost always start with a good solid push start/clutch pop, just not always practical to be able to do. I have rebuilt the top end for a head gasket and finally got rid of the check engine light, but when starting, the driver side cylinders stay cold compared to the pass side. I have checked for spark and it seems to be getting what it needs. Im at a loss for what could be wrong...when it does run it will not stay running without throttle once the engine is up to temp. When driving it will surge at around 3K RPM in each gear, and I will have to either gear up or keep it at 60mph(in 5th). Here are the parts that have been changed and the work I have done,

New clutch/slave
New flywheel/starter
New fuel pump/injectors/pressure reg.
New plugs/wires/coil/cam sensor/cam sync/crank sensor

Im sure there a few more items, but basically have replaced anything to do with the fuel, air and spark systems, and the problem still persists. This is my only vehicle and I am at a loss for what is going on. Originally I was getting p010x misfire codes with the CE light (gone now for over 2k miles). ANY help or ideas is greatly appreciated, I am trying to get ahold of a compression gage to check that, but when it is running it seems as if all would be good if I could figure out the starting and idle problems.
 
Hey!

Im new to the forum, great place. I have a 2003 ranger 2wd, 3.0 V6 (220K) with a rough idle (will stall without throttle input) and is incredibly hard to get started (driver side headers stay cold compared to pass side), it will almost always start with a good solid push start/clutch pop, just not always practical to be able to do. I have rebuilt the top end for a head gasket and finally got rid of the check engine light, but when starting, the driver side cylinders stay cold compared to the pass side. I have checked for spark and it seems to be getting what it needs. Im at a loss for what could be wrong...when it does run it will not stay running without throttle once the engine is up to temp. When driving it will surge at around 3K RPM in each gear, and I will have to either gear up or keep it at 60mph(in 5th). Here are the parts that have been changed and the work I have done,

New clutch/slave
New flywheel/starter
New fuel pump/injectors/pressure reg.
New plugs/wires/coil/cam sensor/cam sync/crank sensor

Im sure there a few more items, but basically have replaced anything to do with the fuel, air and spark systems, and the problem still persists. This is my only vehicle and I am at a loss for what is going on. Originally I was getting p010x misfire codes with the CE light (gone now for over 2k miles). ANY help or ideas is greatly appreciated, I am trying to get ahold of a compression gage to check that, but when it is running it seems as if all would be good if I could figure out the starting and idle problems.
Any one out there that can help? I can pay!!!!
 
Disable the ignition.

Crank the truck.

Pull the spark plugs and see if any are dry.

If they are you have something keeping the injectors from fireing. Possibly even an ECM.

Start there.
 
Ok then you got an ignition issue or compression issue.

Have you checked compression on the non fireing bank?

have you changed the coil pack?
 
yes, I have, take a look at my original thread, it shows what has all been replaced. thanks.
 
It says "im trying to get a hold of a compression gauge"

Not "i checked compression".

Missed the coil part.

It sounds like an IAC except for the 60mph part, and theres no reason for one side to be cold. Unless that bank is ungodly rich.

What were your compression numbers?
 

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