Power windows have constant power, draining my battery

[ssmason85]

Hi all,

As stated in the title of this post, I can roll my windows down with the car off. I bought a brand new battery and that thing will be sucked dry within a week of the car not being driven.

I found a 300mA constant draw to the circuit in line with fuse #26. I was thinking of replacing the power window relay and then moving on to other related relays if that doesn't fix the issue. I'm assuming it could also be a faulty switch or the GEM.

Lastly, I'm having trouble locating the power window relay. Anyone know where it is?

Any thoughts on how to approach from here would be greatly appreciated.

 

[RonD]

Power windows can't drain the battery unless someone is actually using them

The Battery Saver Relay is in Relay Box 1, which is under the dash to the right of steering column, has several relays inside.

The way it's suppose to work
GEM module controls Battery saver relay AND accessory delay relay(not sure where this one is, engine fuse box maybe)
Accessory delay relay allows you to close windows after key is OFF, when you open Drivers Door(key off) GEM should cut power to accessory delay relay, so windows no longer work.
(if door ajar switch no longer works then GEM wouldn't know door was opened, so wouldn't turn off any systems)

GEM has a timer, when you turn off the key and close the door the timer starts, after 20-30min the GEM will shut off and OPEN the Battery Saver Relay, which in theory would cut power to any lights that were left on.
You can test for this by hooking up amp meter and waiting, don't open door or anything, just wait for 30min max, if there is no drop then battery saver relay is not OPENING

The RAP module controls Keyless entry and it has to stay on all the time.
Computer and Radio both have KAMs(keep alive memories) so are also a drain.
But these shouldn't be more than .03-.07 amps(30-70mA) after battery saver relay opens.

So your problem reads like it may be the GEM, if both accessory delay relay and battery saver relay are not working like they should.
And it would be GEM power thats draining the battery


Diagram of relay box 1 here: https://www.2carpros.com/images/question_images/221165/original.jpg

Not sure if its for 1998 Ranger specifically
You can pull out battery saver relay and then test amp draw, should be .03-.07 amps

 

[ssmason85]

I believe the battery saver relay works fine. I swapped it with the fuel pump relay and the car still runs and the windows have the same issue.

Additionally, I found my cigarette lighter unplugged. It never used to work so at first I thought I fixed something... I later realized it was most likely intentionally unplugged as I can now charge my phone with the car off and having opened the door. And my multi-meter reads a 10mA increase of draw on the battery.

So I'm going to try swapping out that accessory delay relay (I believe its behind the dash). If no luck there, do you suggest even taking a look at the door ajar switch? It definitely turns off my dome light which makes me think its good.

 

[Dirtman]

I have to ask, are you just assuming your battery will go dead or has it actually gone dead? Like Ron mentioned you have to do the parasitic draw test after having left the truck off for about an hour and you cannot open the door, touch the brake or ANYTHING or you will "wake it up". My truck has a draw of around 260 MA for about an hour until the battery saver relay closes then I have about 60MA draw and I don't even have power windows or locks.

 

[RonD]

Yes, the GEM is the approx. 200mA power draw until it "goes to sleep", then draw should drop to 70mA or less

Yes, the cigarette lighter and AUX power point(if so equipped) have full time power, it isn't shut off by Battery Saver relay or accessory delay relay.
If used as a power point then you have to unplug the device if vehicle will be sitting for a week, since most people keep their cell phones handy I doubt it would be in the vehicle long enough to drain the battery, i.e. over night charging wouldn't kill a car battery, unless the battery was already bad or the charger for the phone was

 

[Dirtman]

Yep, cell chargers draw constant power. If I factor in my goofy blinking fake security light and my cell charger that I never unplug my draw goes up another 20 or so MA. Im just not seeing a problem with your numbers. I think you're chasing a problem that doesn't exist.

 

[ssmason85]

After my last post, my dome light and truck bed courtesy light (white lights around third brake light) randomly clicked on while driving. They stayed on so I started pulling out fuse #26 to them it off. Super weird, but I was able to resolve the issue today by simply wiggling the right relay. Those lights seem to be working fine for now, but I'll keep an eye n them.

I didn't realize opening the door would wake up the car, so I performed another parasitic draw test without opening anything or turning the car on. I found a total of 304mA still being drawn from the battery after 1 hour and 15 minutes later.

I should clarify from my first post that fuse #26 is more than likely pulling closer to 270mA. Other systems are pulling around 30mA with fuse #26 removed.

Also my auxiliary fuse box looks a little different (pictured below) and I'm missing a relay. I looked online for this layout but could not find it. Anyone have a diagram for my set up? I have a 98 Ranger, xlt, 4.0L, 2wd, Auto trans, reg cab, power windows and locks.

 

[Curious Hound]

Sorry. I don't have the diagram. Should be in your owner's manual. It is quite normal to see what appears to be missing fuses or relays. Sometimes those locations are for equipment options that your vehicle doesn't have. And, sometimes, it's just easier to manufacture a nice symmetrical relay block with an even number of spaces even though it's more spaces than necessary. In either of these cases, if you look don't into the slots where the relay would plug in. You may find that there are no electrical terminals to connect to.

This message composed solely of recycled electrons. Go green!

 

[ssmason85]

That makes sense. I'm missing other fuses and relays but thought I'd mention it just in case. I'm attaching some pics of what I came across today, hopefully they'll help explain what I'm working with.

First I removed and sprayed my GEM with CRC QD electronic cleaner, and I'm allowing it to dry over night just to be safe. I also sprayed the electrical connectors that plug into the GEM. I noticed I only have 3 total connectors that plug into my GEM, while other videos show a total of 4. This could be because I have a 2wd vehicle and the fourth is reserved for 4x4's or some other option I don't have on my vehicle.

There are two wires coming from the same location as the rest of the GEM wires that have been removed from somewhere. One has an old crimp and I tapped the other because it was bare when I found it. These look like they could reach an aftermarket switch (I think for aftermarket fog lights that don't work) which replaced the factory cigarette lighter. Or, maybe they are supposed to go to my GEM? Not sure.

 

[ssmason85]

I got the GEM hooked back up after spraying it down as well as its connections. I'm going to preform another parasitic draw test on my battery today, but I'm thinking this is my problem. Should there be another connection here?

 

[Doofy]

I had the exact same problem and finally got so fed up with looking that I just installed a Master Disconnect Switch. Problem Solved! To old and stove-up to be upside down trying to work under the dash. All the troubleshooting purests would give me grief for not finding the real cause but I'm to old to care.

 

[RonD]

I got the GEM hooked back up after spraying it down as well as its connections. I'm going to preform another parasitic draw test on my battery today, but I'm thinking this is my problem. Should there be another connection here?

Can't say I recognize that exact wire

Ranger wiring harness can have many unused wires for Options that were not selected by original buyer

The GEM has a purple/orange stripe wire that runs to the Battery Saver Relay, it controls that relay by Grounding it to turn it on(closed) and ungrounding to turn it off(open).

The ungrounding is done by a timer in the GEM module, this timer starts with key off and doors closed
Timer is not specific to exactly 20min, or 30min, not sure what it uses as starting point or ending point?

You can pull out the Battery Saver relay and then check AMP draw, this would be the same as GEM turning it off.
If draw is under .07amps(70mA) then issue is battery saver relay is not being turned off by the GEM
(pulling fuse #26 should do the same thing, not sure it powers anything else but the Battery Saver relay and its devices)

You can pull off the connector on the GEM that has the purple/orange wire(its on pin 8 but not sure on which of the connectors)
Then ground that wire manually and you should hear the Battery Saver Relay "click" closed and then open when ungrounded
Key on or off wouldn't matter

If relay works OK then GEM is the issue
If there is no "click" then test that purple/orange wire, it should show 12v coming from fuse #26 thru the relay's coil, if not then purple/orange wire may be shorted to Ground somewhere so relay stays closed all the time