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possibly bad computer?


Joined
Apr 6, 2015
Messages
14
City
grand junction Colorado
Vehicle Year
1983
Transmission
Manual
On my way to ejs in moab, my truck just died. I checked for spark and no spark. I got a ride to the closest parts store and bought a new coil. Still no start. after throwing money and parts at it and getting it towed home, it will still not get spark. I have replaced the distributer cap and rotor, took the distributor out and replaced the stator. Gone through all of the wiring. The only thing I haven't tried is a new computer. After looking, it is difficult to find the same numbers that mine has. Where can I get one of these for cheap or find out what else it could be?



 
The 2.9's ignition system can function (albeit without any advance) without the engine computer.

It sounds to me like you replaced everything except the most common failure item, the ignition module. Please please please tell me you did not go through all of that and then have it towed home without replacing the TFI first.
 
Forgot to mention that I replaced that too. I replaced it before replacing the distributor cap and rotor. Even bought to tool for the two little screws on the back and used the goopy white electrical paste stuff
 
But it will crank and crank and still won't start even after spraying injector cleaner into the intake. I know it is no spark. I can't think of anything else it even could be.
 
Well with all that I suppose it's possible, but still not terribly likely IME.

I would check the disconnectable small wire at the battery ground terminal. If that looses it's connection to the body the engine can't run.
 
I will check and let you guys know! I also just tried plugging in a code reader/computer thing from a buddy and the ranger computer will not read
 
check the eec relay?

what year and engine?
 
Have you actually -tested- for no spark? Just wanted to confirm. If you don't own one already, one of the tools you should have in your box is a basic spark tester like this.
31ZD5T1ARRL.jpg
 
On the side of the road, I tested for spark with bare metal and a screwdriver.I did this after spraying injector cleaner into the intake because I knew it would of fired just on that. I used one of those after I got it towed back home
 
Stop replacing parts that you're not even testing. Focus on the distributor. Is it actually meshing with the cam? Do you have power to the coil? Work through the basics. You can stop at the library and find a Mitchell manual for an '86 (should say 'domestic light trucks and vans'). It will have a troubleshooting sequence to find the root of the problem.
 
I have been trying everything for the past couple evenings. I've been using this book. Testing and then retesting again and going through every wire. Distributer rotor turns still when I turn the key. Coil has suffecient power.

 
On a normal 86 BII, there is a ground wire from the frame where the big battery ground attaches, that goes up to the passenger side fender where all the relays are attached. This ground is a 10 gauge wire, I think, and has a pull apart connector. If it becomes disconnected, you get no spark and can't read codes. Adms08 mentioned this wire and I haven't seen any response about this being checked.
 

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