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Possible key failure - crank no start


edthediscoman

New Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2017
Messages
4
Vehicle Year
2000
Transmission
Automatic
First off, this has happened a little intermittently for a couple of weeks.
2000 Ford Ranger XL 4.0 4wd new crate motor about a year ago.

Car unlocks with either the key or the remote.
Key goes in as normal, theft light goes off, truck cranks great, but no fuel or spark.

Checked relays and fuses.

Something I'm missing or did the keys die in the same week? I have had this wierdly happen over the past month. Disconnected battery for an hour, the normal type stuff, and then randomly...it starts. Then is fine for a week or so, then does it again. This time, not coming back it seems. I have two Stratec keys and two Ford keys, but only the Stratec Keys worked -until the other day.

I even tried with all the keys next to the ignition.
Strange...but my money is on the PATS system.

Thoughts?

Ed
 
Welcome to TRS :)

Theft light will flash rapidly if PATS system has prevented startup

And PATS should prevent starter relay from activating in 2000 Ranger 4.0l, so no crank

PATS also doesn't stop spark, just fuel pump and fuel injectors

My guess would be fuel pump failure


Remove intake plenum, big air hose on front of intake, make sure fan won't hit it
Spray starting fluid(ether) or gasoline into the intake
Try to start engine
If it starts and dies you have spark but not fuel from injectors
If it doesn't start then you have no spark

Called 50/50 test, been around since the Ford Model A was just a thought, lol.

If no start then could be Crank sensor has failed, not expensive or hard to replace but these NEVER fail, and Check engine light would come on after a few cranks because cam sensor would be turning but no crank pulse

My guess would be it will start up and then die with 50/50 test

When you turn on the key(after Theft light goes out) you should hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run for 2 seconds then stop
That happens EACH time you turn the key from off to on, repeat as much as you need to either determine you hear the pump or you do not hear the pump, the latter is kind of tough, lol

Fuel pump is NOT quiet, quite easy to hear when it is working, when you know the HUMMMM it makes


There is also the test port for fuel pressure on the passenger side of the engine at bottom of upper intake, looks like a tires air valve, because thats what it is, a schrader valve, can even have the cap on it, works the same as well, press center pin and 60psi fuel pressure should squirt gasoline 20 feet, lol, so COLD engine TEST, wear eye protection
 
Last edited:
AHA!!! Yes, checked the shrader, but assumed no fuel due to immobilizer - obviously not the case.
Let me check and will come back in 10 min.
 
I would have lost my money! (Standard Equipment on this model ;<<<======)
Just a spritz through the vent hose and voila. Also appeared to bring pump to life as it drove around the area. No way that spritz would have done 2 miles. Also restarted just fine.

OK, off to get a pump.
Thanks RonD!
 
Good work (y)

Thanks for the "thanks" but all I did was type, lol

Easier to lift the bed than to drop the tank, need torx T-55 for the 6 bed bolts
 

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