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Possible broken timing chain.


If it was me while I had it apart I would put in a new timing chain and sprockets. You dont want to be back there any time soon.
 
******UPDATE TIME*******

OK i proved that the cam gear bolt can not come out when the timing cover is on. so this leaves that the bolt was not in when i put it back together..... But how did the cam gear stay on for 7 months..... (miracle) but the cam gear was not damaged the timing chain was not damaged and the timing chain tensioner and guide was not damaged. all the cylinders seem to compress nicely. i got the motor back in and it started up on the first try. now tomorrow i have to put on the belts and plumb the radiator up. and recheck everything.
 
ok so i got it running pretty good the motor has an intermittent pop. but i have a new problem arise. when i drive down the road i have coolant spraying from my radiator cap. and filling my overflow. i thought it was a bad radiator cap so i replaced it and it still doing it. then i put in my spare radiator that is bran new. its still doing it. so my last thought was thermostat is not working right. i just put a new one in. and its still doing it. the water pump is relatively new its only 8 months old. and has no leaks. i need to get it working so i can drive it to work tomorrow. i need help quick...
 
Ouch sounds like a leaking head gasket for the time being try running with the radiator cap loose so it dont build up pressure. while the engine is running with the radiator cap off do you get alot of constant air bubbles after you fill it all the way and does the heater work. If you know it is all the way full of coolant and still builds up pressure more than likely it is either a head gasket or cracked head. A compression test is in order.
 
OK today i found a little foam on my oil cap but the dip stick is clean. so i do think i have a leaky head gasket I'm about to do a compression test. i had so much pressure in my radiator that i blew the seam on the driver side tank on the radiator. no i need to hope the old radiator is not clogged and put it back in once i fix the head gasket. I just happen to have a spare head gasket and bolts.
 
im done witht the compresstion test #1 is at 165 #2 160 #3 145 #4-6 160 and all the spark plugs are light brown but clean. *shrug*
 
i can drive down the road if the needle is still low on the gauge. once it comes up to half it will spray out of the cap. and it will idle all day and not spray out of the cap or raise above half. i'm going to drive with the cap loose tomorrow when i go to work and see if that helps. but i don't think it will help. with the compression so good and the spark plugs looking good. i don't know what do do other then just replacing both head gaskets.
 
with the cap loose it dose not spray out but it dose leak out quite a bit when i stop and turn the truck off. with it so cold it stays about half on the gauge...... i would have to say the side with the lowest compression is the side with the problem. so next pay check i think im going to change bothe head gaskets since i will have the intake manifold off anyway. dont want to do the head thing twice. hopefully it will fix the problem.
 
I know its been a while. But I replaced both head gaskets and inspeced the heads. The right head gasket had a hole in it.
Rightheadgasket.jpg
So i thought that was the problem. But no its not........ and all 6 pistons and sets of valves have carbon build up on them. If i was pressureizing the cooling system with the engine compresstion then i should have at least one clean piston right? The only thing left is to replace the water pump and have the cooling system flushed. If my hair was longer i would be bald from pulling it all out....... any ideas????????????? :dunno:
 
Not necessarily it is hard to tell sometimes where the leak is you may need to have the heads magnafluxed if the crack is not visible and the head gaskets look good. do you see any traces of carbon on the coolant side anywhere top or bottom it dont take much. The hot high pressure gasses can pass through a little leak alot easier than the coolant can. If it was me other than the normal carbon buildup and nothing else stood out like can you see cross hatching on the cylinder walls and no scoring or ridge on the cyls. Get a good strait edge check the heads for any warpage its kind of a crap shoot just resealing it now cleaning it up real good and see if it fixes it or taking the heads in and having them fluxed and go from there it`s your call maybe it is just a warped head. On my jeep 4.0 strait six the head gasket was leaking between the #3 and #4 cyl and migrating into the water jacket with no sign of water in the cyls with the same symptoms. It was ok until I hit highway speeds and then it would overheat. I drove it around for some time with the cap loose and the radiator would stop dumping coolant after the level was about 4 inches down. I hope you get it fingered and start the new year on a good note.
 
I'm pretty sure i fixed it. I over looked that the left head bolts were a little looser the the right. I used my impact wrench to take the left ones off and had to use a breaker bar on the right side. The tip about that just a hair line crack could cause the problem it made me think that it was the loose bolts. Now when i drive down the street nothing blows out my cap and my heat works nicely. When i park it it does not boil into my over flow tank like it was doing when it had the problem. thank you very much for all the hits. hope it stays fixed.
 

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