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pb blaster vs grease


swynx

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2008
Messages
2,401
Age
33
City
lewiston idaho
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
Over the past few days I've been slowly replacing my ball joints and Wheel bearings. And the odd amenities in between. Everything was pretty well rusted and covered in dirt. On the drivers side I coated all nuts and bolts with wheel bearing grease. And on the passenger I'm using pb blaster. Which has proved well over the years.

Any one done this before? What was the outcome. I assume grease will win
 
Use marine grease, it'll outlast the other two.
 
Never thought of that. I just realized that it was WAY harder to get grease off my hand than pb blaster. But also pb blaster breaks up rust better.
 
For breaking rusted nuts I have found power steering fluid works great it will not dry out like PB or WD. Basically all your doing is lubeing it up.
 
Never thought of that. I just realized that it was WAY harder to get grease off my hand than pb blaster. But also pb blaster breaks up rust better.
Marine grease is worse than wheel bearing grease to get off your hands.

Silicone grease is worse than marine grease.

Aluminum (silver colored) anti-seize compound works, but it can be annoying when it dries out because it loses some of it's lubricating properties. Copper (gold colored) is better but rather pricey.

I have a tendency to use stainless bolts when I can and I will use blue locktite on things that should not come apart easily. Locktite will keep rust out of where the nut is on the bolt. I'll smear grease on the rest of the threads.
 
Well, nuts and bolts should be cleaned and tightened, but not greased.

As a lubricant, petroleum is the tops. PB Blaster, WD-40 or whatever is really bad at lubrication. Motor oil is great and grease is awesome.

PB Blaster, WD-40 and such might be penetrates that might be intended to help free up rusted stuff, but they aren't meant to be applied as a lubricant. A drop of motor oil in a hinge is 100X better than a spray of WD-40 or its generic competitors.

I use WD-40 and such to free up a lock that's been on a barn I haven't opened in 3 years. WD-40 helps rinse the crap out of a squeaky door, but then you use an oilcan to lube it so it doesn't squeak anymore. It doesn't loosen bolts. No chemical product can penetrate deeply enough to loosen a serious problem. Heat loosens bolts.

A wire brush and mineral spirits are what you use before you reassemble something. Torque specs are for a dry fastener unless specifically stated in the service manual. That would be a rare to never occasion.
 
best stuff for rust is transmission fluid mixed with acetone...
 
I used to dip my bolts in used motor oil before putting them in. Worked well.
 
I use WD-40 and such to free up a lock that's been on a barn I haven't opened in 3 years. WD-40 helps rinse the crap out of a squeaky door, but then you use an oilcan to lube it so it doesn't squeak anymore. It doesn't loosen bolts. No chemical product can penetrate deeply enough to loosen a serious problem. Heat loosens bolts.

A wire brush and mineral spirits are what you use before you reassemble something. Torque specs are for a dry fastener unless specifically stated in the service manual. That would be a rare to never occasion.

WD-40 was intended more to repel water than to break anything loose. "Penetrating oil" is great for once you get something loose to lube, they can chatter and eventually break if you force it dry. Working it with oil on the threads can really make a huge difference. For actual breaking loose I don't think it does much but make you feel better.

There are numerous "wet torque" bolts, dipping in oil is pretty common for major engine hardware. The ARP headbolt kit for my 302 even came with grease to put on the threads.
 
I don't bother with "lubes" or "penetrants" anymore.... I use a air impact gun, bolt snaps just replace.
 
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I've been using grease to keep rust of parts. It works ok, pb blaster sometimes helps stuff but it's not an end all.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk
 
So is used engine oil an end all if you use in. before?
 
If you're lookin' to prevent future rust, coat the fittings (nuts/bolts, etc) with corn head grease...ask your local John Deere dealer for it...comes in a tub or tube like caulk. It won't wash off. If you're looking to break up rust to remove fittings...acetone and tranny fluid mixed together but the acetone evaporates fast so act quick when you mix it and don't smoke around it (acetone) or get it on your hands...very nasty stuff for your bod.
 
Ya at my old job we used acetone heavily. Used it to clean primer mix off everything.
 

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