Passenger side front wheel suddenly smoking and stinky.

[Eddo Rogue]

OK I got it on jackstands under the frame, TTB arms dangling.

Wheel bearings definitely need work. The side of bad radius arm bushing looks like it could use a new pivot bushing as well, but I might hold off on that for now. I am really trying to avoid heavy disassembly.

Is it possible my ball joints are still good? They look good and hold tight against pry bar test.

Brake calipers seem ok, and rotors dont look burned, pads look old but plenty of material....

I'm shopping ebay and rock auto for options if I need to replace booster or calipers....lots of options, any I should avoid besides the obvious? I'll be buried in this ranger, so I'd rather get good parts to keep us alive and well until then.

I found reman calipers on fleabay....doesnt say the brand tho.

 

[Roert42]

You answered my question of how to check without having to drive it. Do I do this with the truck running for vacuum?

so if hose collapses, booster is bad right?

What I’m talking about is the flexible brake line being damaged and collapsing internally.

Nothing to replace but the brake hose.

Maybe pads if they are worn uneven from one side dragging.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

What I’m talking about is the flexible brake line being damaged and collapsing internally.

Nothing to replace but the brake hose.

Maybe pads if they are worn uneven from one side dragging.
[/QUOTE

What I’m talking about is the flexible brake line being damaged and collapsing internally.

Nothing to replace but the brake hose.

Maybe pads if they are worn uneven from one side dragging.

OK I think I get it...the pressure buildup is in the lines, not the booster....right?

And you meant 2 hoses right? I would replace both sides...

Not to sidetrack, but should I get steel braided while at it? Or is there a whole pros/cons to that like there is in poly vs rubber bushings?

If the only con is price, I'll get steel braided....I love my ranger, and despise china crap parts being my only options these days, because everyone is a cheapskate when it comes to the marvel of engineering that is modern vehicles. So sad I will pay top dollar for quality parts...if I can find such a thing anymore, and usually can't.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Sorry if I am being dumb dumb...dealing w some stuff that really seems to be affecting my skills, memory and motivation these days. Just getting up on jackstands and wheels off was a mountain of a task....hoping this gets me out of my wrenching burnout slump.

 

[Roert42]

Picture is upside down.

But the idea is there is a break inside the hose. When you push down on the pedal, the pressure will force fluid past the break and activate the brakes. When you release the brake pedal, the messed up spot inside the hose causes the fluid to flow back extremely slow.

So, even after you release the brake pedal, the calipers still have pressure on them like you are pushing on the pedal.


this commonly happens if someone is doing a brake job, after removing the caliper from the bracket, the caliper gets dropping and hangs from the line.

 

[Roert42]

I see no reason not to get stainless braided lines over the standard stuff. No downside that I’m aware of

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Upon closer inspection, brake line looked pretty toast.

Ordered new set of Raybestos rubber lines.

Was considering steel braided, but will probably go that route if/when I need extended lines due to more lift.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Update...Im tackling the radius arm bushings now. Also noticed a lot of jiggle in the axle when the hub is off, so I'm gonna replace the hub/spindle bearing or whatever is called. I got the seals and all too, Timken.

I cant seem to get the radius arm nuts loose at the pivot arm, so thinking just grind off the crossmember rivets and replace w bolts/nuts after.

I'm in rust free CA and still using liberal amounts of Pblaster and other penetrants to get nuts and bolts loose. How do you guys living in rust prone regions do this? Hats off.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I see no reason not to get stainless braided lines over the standard stuff. No downside that I’m aware of

I factored in price, and in this rare case would rather not have grabby brakes....and will probably end up getting a lift and extended lines later anyways....so I opted for rubber lines....Raybestos dynamic 3 I think they're called. IDK they seem decent quality...

 

[Curious Hound]

Also noticed a lot of jiggle in the axle when the hub is off, so I'm gonna replace the hub/spindle bearing or whatever is called

If you're talking about play in the axle shaft where it sticks out of the spindle, and little bit of play is normal due to the way all of that is assembled. The shaft can move in and out because it is a C-clip style shaft in the differential. And a tiny amount of up and down or side to side play occurs because the spindle bearing is not a super tight fit and the axle shaft can pivot slightly within it. If it seems excessive, go ahead and replace it.

I've recorded video for that job. But haven't edited it yet. Sorry.

 

[SenorNoob]

That's about the only spot on my truck that didn't have play when I assembled it. LOL

 

[Roert42]

How do you guys living in rust prone regions do this?

 

[Eddo Rogue]

If you're talking about play in the axle shaft where it sticks out of the spindle, and little bit of play is normal due to the way all of that is assembled. The shaft can move in and out because it is a C-clip style shaft in the differential. And a tiny amount of up and down or side to side play occurs because the spindle bearing is not a super tight fit and the axle shaft can pivot slightly within it. If it seems excessive, go ahead and replace it.

I've recorded video for that job. But haven't edited it yet. Sorry.

Yes there is some play, but not tremendous...in that case I may just save em another day. Maybe after watching your video...

 

[Eddo Rogue]

View attachment 119158

View attachment 119159

I was hoping to avoid rolling out the torch, but might hafta...got plenty of cheater bars.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I ended up just grinding off the crossmember rivets, it wasn't too bad....I buzzed a lil plastic off the fenders for better access. Unbolted and moved the fuel filter cage outta the way. Hoping to get it all back together today.

Will probably hold off on the axle/spindle bearing for now, they don't seem worn and apparently some play is normal.

7/16" bolt/nuts fit the rivet holes perfect. Hopefully downhill from here.