Parts to be installed with EGR valve replacement

[odeek9]

I always feel guilty when asking a question yet I can never help anyone out with their issue. I'm not a user, just too ignorant to help.
That said I have (& where can I place this data so it always shows when posting?) an '86 Ranger, 15,000 mi. on a new engine, 5 sp., efi, 2 wd, base. I've had it for 26-27 years. It idles a bit roughly-though in other ways it performs like a charm- and since it's virtually new with all of the normal adj. made upon installation I don't want to screw anything up. I thought that, perhaps, I could clean/replace a couple of emissions parts since I have read that can contribute to idling problems. The system hasn't been fiddled with since new as I live in a very rural area exempt from smog. regs. Also, my little inexpensive code reader always shows the same 3 faults 2 of which are smog-the egr, and the sensor I think (not sure about that one as it's been a while.
The removal process looked simple enough and I thought I might try replacing it or cleaning it. I'd like to know what other emission parts should be changed along with it within reason as I'm a very poor guy. Also, am I opening a can of worms? It seems like it couldn't hurt to at least clean it.
OK, thoughts? How stupid am I being this time? Thanks!

 

[adsm08]

There really isn't too much else that should need replaced. Just the valve, sensor, and gasket. The only other thing you might need is the tube, and that's only if it breaks while you are taking things apart.

 

[ab_slack]

First there is some glitch that just cropped up or setting change in the forum where the usual spot for vehicle information isn't showing under peoples names in posts. Regardless, the place you enter the info can be found by going into your public profile and click the about me tab.

When you said "new engine" there is a great deal of interpretation just as to what that can mean.

Unless doing a engine upgrade to something non-stock, most of the "new engines" are remanufactured engines supplied as a short block. Meaning they have taken a good block, replaced the wear items such as bearing, seals, valve guides though some of the remanufacturers put in old parts (such as cams, possibly pistons) if they test as good.

Anyways, my point is, since it is supplied as a short block lots gets moved from the old engine to the new. Pretty much from manifolds out including manifold, throttle body, injectors, most of the sensors, all your hoses, distributor, cap, fuel rail, fuel injectors, all hoses, etc. I am not sure if the water pump and/or the oil pan are carry over items. Potentially rotor, wires, spark plugs, belts even.

With all the sensors and such moved, lots of running issues can move to the new engine since the sensors are so important to the running.

If you did the work yourself, then you know what was moved and what was replaced and probably used some common sense.

In my case I had a shop do the work and I was surprised at some of what they moved and didn't ask about. All done in my interest to keep the cost down. Belts was my biggest peeve since I had left specific instructions on those. Others I personally would have changed such as cap, rotor, wires and plugs.

I am guessing you got the 2.9L V6 since you mentioned EFI. I am not sure what was the last year for the 2.8L

 

[simpler=better]

Nickel antisieze, nickel antisieze, nickel antisieze. Aluminum can harden at high temps, nickel stays perfectly smooth.

The time saved removing/reinstalling O2 sensor and EGR bungs was well worth the $20 or so on amazon

 

[odeek9]

First there is some glitch that just cropped up or setting change in the forum where the usual spot for vehicle information isn't showing under peoples names in posts. Regardless, the place you enter the info can be found by going into your public profile and click the about me tab.

When you said "new engine" there is a great deal of interpretation just as to what that can mean.

Unless doing a engine upgrade to something non-stock, most of the "new engines" are remanufactured engines supplied as a short block. Meaning they have taken a good block, replaced the wear items such as bearing, seals, valve guides though some of the remanufacturers put in old parts (such as cams, possibly pistons) if they test as good.

Anyways, my point is, since it is supplied as a short block lots gets moved from the old engine to the new. Pretty much from manifolds out including manifold, throttle body, injectors, most of the sensors, all your hoses, distributor, cap, fuel rail, fuel injectors, all hoses, etc. I am not sure if the water pump and/or the oil pan are carry over items. Potentially rotor, wires, spark plugs, belts even.

With all the sensors and such moved, lots of running issues can move to the new engine since the sensors are so important to the running.

If you did the work yourself, then you know what was moved and what was replaced and probably used some common sense.

In my case I had a shop do the work and I was surprised at some of what they moved and didn't ask about. All done in my interest to keep the cost down. Belts was my biggest peeve since I had left specific instructions on those. Others I personally would have changed such as cap, rotor, wires and plugs.

I am guessing you got the 2.9L V6 since you mentioned EFI. I am not sure what was the last year for the 2.8L

Sorry, I should have offered more information. It's a 2.3L, a shop did all of the work, and it's a Jasper reman. long block. I could never do that kind of work which is why I'm asking the EGR question. Once the engine was replaced many elect. parts failed-from increased efficiency I'm guessing. I put in a new starter, alternator, they installed a new distributor, I replaced an old radiator with a new one, the water pump and thermostat, mechanical temp gauge as I didn't trust the old one, new battery, and other things I can't recall. Belts, filters, ignition wires, etc. came with the deal
I recently did the 2 tests I know how to do and the vacuum was perfect and the compression test was 190, 188, 190, 192. Oh, and they also at my request replaced the clutch and release bearing, and slave cylinder I believe.
It idled just slightly roughly when I picked it up and the owner of the place was surprised as they had done some adjustment to specs but he fiddled with something -can' recall if it helped

 

[odeek9]

Nickel antisieze, nickel antisieze, nickel antisieze. Aluminum can harden at high temps, nickel stays perfectly smooth.

The time saved removing/reinstalling O2 sensor and EGR bungs was well worth the $20 or so on amazon

I'll take your word for it and order them today. A little more expensive than your words, but still relatively inexpensive. Thanks!!

 

[simpler=better]

I'll take your word for it and order them today. A little more expensive than your words, but still relatively inexpensive. Thanks!!

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-77124-Nickel-Anti-Seize-Lubricant/dp/B0002UENJ2/?tag=959media-20

$15.55 + 5.95 = $21.50

I think it's around $30 in NAPA, etc. so I'd just order it online

Great for exhaust studs, collector bolts too, slip-fit exhaust parts, etc. too

 

[Mark_88]

You can update your profile with information on year/make/engine size and all that under the User CP on the top blue bar over just above where your post appears on the screen...that makes things a bit easier when trying to explain your problem...unless you are working on something different.

The EGR pipe can probably made out of something like conduit or similar pipe...I think it comes in 1/2 and 3/4" in metal and usually has some heat wrap on it...I made one out of 1/2" copper pipe and elbows but intend to replace it some day...maybe...important thing for it to function properly is that it is sealed properly so it doesn't leak and allows the vacuum to draw the exhaust gases up into the TB...

 

[odeek9]

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-77124-Nickel-Anti-Seize-Lubricant/dp/B0002UENJ2/?tag=959media-20

$15.55 + 5.95 = $21.50

I think it's around $30 in NAPA, etc. so I'd just order it online

Great for exhaust studs, collector bolts too, slip-fit exhaust parts, etc. too

Sorry I misunderstood-thought you were speaking of the actual parts

 

[stuntsunltd.]

Egr.

The EGR valve is located at the back of the upper intake. Check the vacumn lines running to the EGR valve. Its very likely that one of these lines is broken or cracked (theyre made of cheap thin plastic) causing the EGR fault codes your recieving. Also check the Tech Library for info on how to check and decipher those codes for yourself using nothing more than a small jumper wire.

 

[odeek9]

The EGR valve is located at the back of the upper intake. Check the vacumn lines running to the EGR valve. Its very likely that one of these lines is broken or cracked (theyre made of cheap thin plastic) causing the EGR fault codes your recieving. Also check the Tech Library for info on how to check and decipher those codes for yourself using nothing more than a small jumper wire.

Thanks-will do. Because of the weather here I haven't done anything yet. Bought the gasket and was planning to keep it simple for me; remove, check lines, clean valve, and replace.
There's a popular oil and/or gas additive the name I can't recall but it may start with an "S" and is pretty expensive and added most of it (the ratio was given) and the remainder in the gas. This was all done just for the Hell of it and after about 100 miles re-ran the code tester and none of those previous emission codes showed. Just one about tachometer which always shows and I ignore as I don't have one.