Oddball wiper question.


vbrad511

15+ Year Member

Joined
Jan 6, 2008
Messages
158
Points
3,101
City
Springfield, Illinois
Vehicle Year
1997
Transmission
Manual
I've got a guy I work with who's got a 97 Ranger (I do too) and his wipers have quit...mostly. If the switch is on when he starts the truck they'll run once or twice then quit. Sometimes they'll cycle when he opens or closes the door. But that's it. Turn the switch on when the trucks running...nothing. Ideas where to look?
 
I'd first check the motor itself. Should be able to unplug them and jump it via 12v. After that, follow the wiring to the switch. It sounds like you have the ghost wiper problem. I would suspect the switch in the column needs a looking at as well. The slamming door is probably what's causing the points to make contact and turn the wipers on for just a moment. Age can cause all kinds of nasty crusties and corrosion on parts that need good contact.
 
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I've got a spare motor I took out of mien a while back. Plugged into his harness it still does the same thing. I suspected the column switch as well, but is there something on/in it I can look for? Can I get to the contacts to check them out/clean them?
 
I would say easily, but that's under debate. Pull the steering wheel (most likely need the puller which can be rented at any auto parts store) and you can access the column switch. You can pull the assembly out and either use a little sandpaper or even some kind of parts cleaner. I've actually used brake cleaner, but you can use any solvent that'll get rid of any corrosion or grease. Install is of course the reverse of removal.

You should be able to check it before putting the steering wheel back on.
 
Mine would randomly come on full blast, I was able to pop the cap off the end and take the screw out. At that point I pulled it apart and cleaned the contacts.
 
That sounds right. It's the mid-90s Chevy trucks you have to pull the steering wheel. I haven't had to pull my multi-function switch yet
 
From what I'm seeing in the book and online I won't have to pull the wheel. It's a bolt-on piece once you remove the plastic over and under the column. From the video it doesn't look like a serviceable piece. Probably just gonna have him buy a new switch and see what we get.
And I did pull the cap off the arm. There's a little grease in there but everything looks clean and shiny.
 
You can pull the cap off the end of the knob, under the cap is a screw.
Proceed from there.
 
If that doesn't fix the issue, it is more than likely a bad connection elsewhere, or maybe something is wrong with the fuse/fuse box.
 
I;m almost betting on a bad contact or ground, was hoping for suggestions on a common failure point.
 

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