Ocd Fabrication & Our Bronco Build

[scotts90ranger]

Nice, being in an Explorer I'm staying narrow, trails around here aren't wide and I prefer to stay somewhat narrow and I don't want to break spendy glass fenders... plus function is way ahead of form...

How do the KM3's do? I've had the KM2's since like '11 and they're getting older but still holding up fine for now... the RBV platform on 35" tires is a good balance I think...

 

[OcdFabrication]

Nice, being in an Explorer I'm staying narrow, trails around here aren't wide and I prefer to stay somewhat narrow and I don't want to break spendy glass fenders... plus function is way ahead of form...

How do the KM3's do? I've had the KM2's since like '11 and they're getting older but still holding up fine for now... the RBV platform on 35" tires is a good balance I think...

Man let me tell you! We went from steel Pro Comp Wheels and 35x13.5x15 Toyo MT's to the Level 8 Aluminum and Km3's. It felt like I just supercharged the truck! The weight of these are almost nothing compared to most other tires, but next to a toyo MT almost non existent. Welded Diff, California Summers along with SHIT roads and constant wheeling. I have had not one complaint with them. And at only $270 per tire for the 15 we will be buying a new set. These have around 25k miles on them in the pictures above.

I would NOT recommend them for anything larger. These tires on my FJ80 are dead in under 20kmiles with open diffs, light wheeling, and D load rating. That truck does much better with the Federal MT's on it now.

If I had to choose another tire right now ( MT ) I would get a set of Cooper Discovery SST's. I love the tire but haven't got to personally test them. I have been warned by thin side walls. But that's depending on your off roading conditions.

This is a picture of the Toyo's and no tube work

 

[DrWho42]

hello! welcome aboard!

 

[OcdFabrication]

@Northidahotrailblazer No, not the Toyo’s. The BFG’s are $296 to the public. I get them around $260 per tire mounted and balanced.

 

[Northidahotrailblazer]

Yeah my bad, I delete my comment. I read your post to fast. My bad! haha

 

[OcdFabrication]

Yeah my bad, I delete my comment. I read your post to fast. My bad! haha

It’s all good brotha

 

[ole.war.horse]

Not quite sure I understand what you mean by the cable in the back axle ?



To make this short and sweet ill explain MY con's of the dana 30.

1. No manual locking hubs and having to spend $1600 to get them is insane to me. On top of that switching from a good unit bearing to a outdated and not very sealed spindle assembly witch needs much more maintenance. And guess what happens when you break something on the trail. No easily available parts. If you want more info of what I am talking about google " Dana 30 Manual Locking Hubs Conversion "

2. The Axle tubes are absolutely underbuilt and need to be strengthened before ever put in service off-road. BUT! That's a easy and cheap fix. Multiple companies offer 2x.250wall Dom sleeves to install into your existing tubes to make it a .500 ( .5in / 1/2in / or 127mm for you Non US Guys ). These added in conjunction with a Knuckle C gussets like I built strengthen these axles beyond belief and make them much more capable.

3. High Steer options are out there but almost are COMPLETELY Wrong. I don't know what it is about the Jeep community but my Gawd they cant build a drop in steering assembly to save there life. The Driverside Knuckle needs to Built into Double Sheer ( Like you can see in my photos ) or built with a Y link.

4. The Ball Joint Design. This is my 4th set but NOT due to failure. Ill say it louder for the people in the back. NOT DUE TO FAILURE.... Its due to the pure lack of knowledge on the internet of how to properly set the lower ball joint preload/split ring. This had to do with centering the axle in the housing and for slightly adjusting camber ( +/- .5deg ). Every time I make an adjustment a replace them because I have a lifetime warranty. The Upper Ball joint does not move like the lower one does. I had no spherical ball. Its only job is to go left and right in a flat plain of travel. But it does move up and down depending on the preload on the lower ball joint. So with that said. I have a issue with the upper joint not holding up to its job allowing large impacts to bend the lower part of the Axle C due to nothing helping on the top end. I AM switching to Ball Joint Eliminators to remedy this issue but lets face it. Its a $500 fix to do so.


Wiiiiiiith all that Jibber Jabber out of the way. Its more capable off-road then the dana 35 TTB and Dana 44 TTB in a Ranger/B2 platform. As for in comparison to a Dana 44 Solid Tube Axle ( NOT JEEP DANA44's ). If available in High pinion close and cheap enough for you. Its much more capable with a superior Ball Joint Design. Just eliminates you keeping 5x4.5 lug pattern.

.... Sunday like 21st,,, Aug.
.... Oh , you're right, looking over great pics again,, yeah looks like U bolts and brake line, mistaken, was thinking like old days binders to keep axle from moving.

Okay well power on for lack of anything clever to say like asta la Vista i'll be back or wfo and never look back.

Alrighty then. *Deuces* (hand sign)