No Crank Issues thats NOT PATS! Help!

[Broosedamoose]

My 07 XLT 4WD: Long short story, driving along and motor quits. Pull over, put in park, start truck and drive away. About 2 miles later, same thing only now it just cranks. Get out, check under hood for anything obvious. Get in and it starts right up! Close the hood, get on the highway and about 4 mile down she quits again. This time the PATS light is flashing and no odometer reading. Towed it home. Checked all fuses/relays, had power in at the PCM, grounds all checked out, so it had to be the computer. Took PCM in to be checked and was told it 'f fried and is not repairable. Ordered a new PCM, had it programmed an all, put it in and now I get my odometer, no PATS light flashing but still no crank! I end up pulling a P1260 which I was told is because the PATS unit is not married to the PCM. So, I get me a 2-day license for the FJDS (Ford J2534 Diagnostic Software) and reprogram EVERYTHING! No I have no DTC present but still no crank. If I jump out the starter relay it cranks. I checked the trans range sensor and it's good. Pulled the PDB under the hood and checked for corrosion but it was minimal; not the issue. What else could there be? This is driving me crazy. Next step is to tow it in to the dealer and pay more than the truck is worth to get it fixed!

 

[RonD]

PCM is part of PATS in that it GROUNDs the starter relay in the engine fuse box if Key passes test, and I think the key numbers are stored in PCM and compared in PCM for the Pass/No Pass test

So pull the Starter relay out of the engine fuse box, get a Volt or OHM meter

If you are not familiar with 12volt automotive relays look here: http://www.reuk.co.uk/wordpress/electric-circuit/automotive-relays/

4 or 5 pin relays have 85 and 86 at the same location, relays coil hookup.
With Key on, and no flashing PATS light, slot 85 should be a Ground, so test with volt meter to battery + or OHM meter to engine ground, 0 ohms

If no ground then PCM is not "being told" to ground it

Slot 86 should have 12volts when key is turned to START, if not fuse #21(5amp) in cab may be blown, or trans switch is bad, wrong position

Slots 85 and 86 can be reversed, and are on the 2.3l Rangers, so grain of salt with Ford wiring, but one will be a Ground if key passes test, and the other will have 12volts when key is turned to START

And just to add if you "jump starter relay", thats on the starter motor, and it cranks but doesn't start(assume key is on) then PATS is disabling fuel injectors, so it is a PATS issue

 

[Broosedamoose]

All that checks out fine. I'm told (from Ford tech on another site) that I cannot erase the P1260 code. Only dealers with an IDS security license are able to program the new PCM to the PATS module. I can't figure it out and neither can anyone else who's tried to help so it's off to the dealer we go!

 

[adsm08]

Get Forscan, get your full licsense (simple process) and get into the PATS menu and do a PATS reset.

You will need two different keys to start the truck after that. What I mean by different is that you can use two existing Ford keys, or one Ford and one Stratec, but if either of the keys you use is a hardware store clone of the other one the computer will not be able to tell them apart because they will have the same ID# on the chip, and so it won't register as you using two keys and won't start.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I’ll second the use of Forscan. If you’re questioning any of the keys that you have, you can get another cut and try programming. You need two keys with a different chip ID that both work (and yes, it’s somewhat rare, but I have seen a valid chip key get flaky on working). If you live near southwestern PA, I can probably cut you a good key or two and run Forscan. Wouldn’t be the first Ranger that I did that for.


Sent from my kite using a trebuchet

 

[Broosedamoose]

So I already had Forscan but went ahead and got the license. I had already used Ford IDS to program everything (I'd thought) but doing it again can't hurt, which it didn't. But, still the same scenario! I double checked the keys and they were good! Then someone asked if I had reprogrammed the IC. I had seen it come up in IDS but didn't know what it was. Turns out IC is short for "Instrument Cluster"! Yeah, I know, "Duh"! So after reprogramming EVERYTHING this time, I turned the key and she fired right up! Apparently the PCM was communicating with the IC but they were not "married". I sure miss the good ol' days of points, a coil and a carburator!