New rotor is slightly wobbly

[Chapap]

I’ve been hearing a constant click that follows wheel rpm. Pulled the wheel and see an ever so slight warp in the disc. It’s enough to make it difficult to turn when it presses on the inside pad, but it’s fairly free when it’s 180 deg from that point. I haven’t noticed excessive heat, but will feel later today. I feel no inconsistency in the pedal. These are brand new rotors and bearings. I snugged the nut down and backed off about 1/8 turn. Could that have not been enough and this is a heat issue?

 

[Curious Hound]

I snugged the nut down and backed off about 1/8 turn.

That’s not really the procedure. You torque the nut to X ft-lbs. to seat the bearing races. Then back it off until loose. Then tighten to X inch-lbs. for the proper preload. I don’t know the numbers for 2wd.
But that should not cause the condition you describe. Still, I would recommend redoing it with the correct procedure.

 

[Chapap]

After an hr of driving, the problem side is a tad warmer than the other side. Both feel cooler than I might expect actually so there shouldn’t be any heat issues. I also don’t have a shock on the problem side. That shouldn’t warp a disc tho.

 

[tw205]

If you pull them parts again, check if your races are seated completely. If one didn’t seat completely it will do what you describe.

 

[gaz]

Chapap,

My apologies, if you are driving without shocks or a shock, I must cease corresponding with you.

 

[55trucker]

The only way to properly check for a warped rotor is with a magnetically or solid mounted dial gauge fastened to the knuckle with the probe up against the rotor surface.

 

[Chapap]

I was looking at the reflection of the outer pad and the pad itself. I could see the “gap” in between the two changing. I can take it to my machinist to see if he can do some fine measurements.

 

[Chapap]

Chapap,

My apologies, if you are driving without shocks or a shock, I must cease corresponding with you.

Im working on it. Gotta replace the swing arm thing cause the mounting point sheared off.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

sometimes not using a torque wrench to evenly tighten the lug nuts can cause warped rotors. My F150 is especially fickle about this.

 

[Chapap]

sometimes not using a torque wrench to evenly tighten the lug nuts can cause warped rotors. My F150 is especially fickle about this.

That may be the winner. I put a little dab of wheel bearing grease on the stud cause I figured it was a good idea. Apparently that causes over torque with a torque wrench. Of course I didn’t use one and probably overtorqued anyway. That combined with the grease may have caused the issue.

 

[pjtoledo]

I always lube the wheel studs with oil then grease the mating surface. then torque to 85 in 3 steps.
If I were to track the vehicle I'd skip the grease, normal street driving doesn't cause me any issues.
It helps to carefully set the wheel, hand tighten the nuts as you jostle the wheel so it mounts evenly.

there is some runout allowed on the rotors but it isn't much. the floating caliper should follow it.
more important is a rotor whose thickness varies. that will cause vibration and hot spots which lead to warping.

 

[Chapap]

Going off of simple math, I used probably a 2’ diameter “plus sign” style lug wrench, so each lb applied is one ftlb. I could probably get a solid 200 lbs of force on it, maybe more if I kinda bounced. I didn’t put all my might into tightening the lugs, but I did a good bit, maybe around 150.

 

[Curious Hound]

Going off of simple math, I used probably a 2’ diameter “plus sign” style lug wrench, so each lb applied is one ftlb. I could probably get a solid 200 lbs of force on it, maybe more if I kinda bounced. I didn’t put all my might into tightening the lugs, but I did a good bit, maybe around 150.

The torque spec for lug nuts is only around 100

 

[Eddo Rogue]

My fusion likes to snap wheel studs due to the steel wheels. So I have gotten used to minding and replacing wheel studs as well.

 

[sgtsandman]

I would think about a warranty exchange on the rotor(s) or replacing them if they refuse to warranty them. Too much warping of the rotor can cause accelerated pad wear even if there isn’t a pedal pulsing sensation.