need timing belt help ASAP

[hotrod101786]

i have my truck tore apart with my new timing belt setting aside. all my marks are lined up, i start the timing belt at the crank, over to the oil pump, but once i get to the cam and stretch the slack out of the timing belt its exactly tooth on tooth on the cam sprocket and if i pull any more then the crank and oil pump turn and i have to start all over. i dont understand whats going on. i even tried to put the old timing belt on to see and its not going on either. i mean something has to be off but all the symbols are lining up

 

[Mark_88]

Can't say that I did one of your vintage, but he same thing happened to me...when I would release the tension pulley, the cam would roll one tooth...took me a few tries to get it but eventually it worked out...

Is the gear on the new oil pump the same size as the old one?

Someone posted on here about changing the timing belt on later model 2.3s...I didn't read much of it but it looked like a good reference...maybe search the older threads if nobody else chimes in...

 

[hotrod101786]

none of the sprockets were new

 

[hotrod101786]

right now i have the cam and oil sprocket symbols lined up but the crank looks to be half a tooth off. the dot on the crank sprocket isnt exactly inline with the notch in that shield by the sprocket. the spline that the dot is inline with is only half way in that notch

 

[hotrod101786]

heres a pic of all my marks. depending on what angle you look at it the crank lines seem to be MAYBE half a tooth off. but theres no way to get it any better with everything else lined up. maybe im just being too picky and not looking from the right angle? what do yall think?

 

[Insanejughead]

Have you tried manually turning the motor one whole turn using a socket on the crank bolt (keep the transmission in neutral) and seeing if the marks still line up?

It may seem like it's off now, but once you get the belt on and tightened, give the motor one full turn (crankshaft, not camshaft). If the sprockets are off the mark at this point, then you loosen up the tensioner and adjust the belt on the camshaft sprocket by one notch.

Let me know how that works for you.

 

[hotrod101786]

well i just put it back together and the engine seems to run smooth. but i put the new belt on last weekend and it seemed fine but just had a slightly rough idle and when i hooked up a scanner to it it said that my timing was advanced at 25 degrees. so i broke everything back down today and just now fired it up. it seems okay. ill have to see how it does on the drive home. and i turned the motor over manually and everything lined back up except that crank mark seemed maybe half a tooth (at most) off from its mark and i dont know what i could possibly do about that. we will see how this goes tho. thanks for the help guys

 

[pbilt]

on the 99 the aux shaft also controls the injector pulse so make sure the crank and the aux are lined up on point there should be a marker for the cam with 3 points or a triangle as long as the cam mark is in the three points or realy close to lining up with the triangle you should be good and there is a diamond for the aux but there is 2 marks for the cam and aux so look close

 

[hotrod101786]

yeah i definately got the cam and aux/oil pump marks lined up perfect. the only thing i was worried about is the crank sprocket. on one of the splines thers a dot and it must line up with a notch on the block. the spline that the dot is on wouldnt get directly in line with the notch, i could only get half to 3/4's of that spline to line up with that notch in order for the timing belt to fit with the cam and aux sprockets to still be spot on. i started up the truck and it seemed fine. i let it run for 5 minutes then shut it off and hooked up our ob2 scanner and started it up again. the advance was at 8 to 10 degrees then after a minute it started steadily climbing to 29 degrees one degree at a time. but i couldnt feel any difference in the idle. i dont know what the hell is going on but the truck runs good at idle and on the highway. so i dont understand how it could be so advanced but with no affects on driveability???

 

[pbilt]

I mis read your post I thought you had the 2.3 I know the 2.3s run pretty far btdc on base timing are you talking about base timing or total advance

 

[pbilt]

I wouldn't even use that dot on the crank set the crank to top dead using the timing indicator on the cover

 

[hotrod101786]

I did and when you take the crank pulley off, that spline with the dot is in line with the notch. So its a valid lining point. And the scanner i had hooked up said ignition timing advance 29 degrees, then i scrolled down through all the other readings and there was spark advance and it was reading the same

 

[hotrod101786]

Ive been browsing around for a week and everybody i have seen that has messed up on the timing belt has much worse symptoms than me. mine just has a slightly rough idle. i can only compare it to the feeling when your ac compressor kicks on and off. theres no hesitation at acceleration nor issues at highway speeds. i figured with such an advanced timing that i would have way worse issues. could this be non timing belt related yet it seemed to idle smoother before the belt change.

 

[hotrod101786]

Ok well i just hooked up a timing light and when i first started the truck it was idling at 8 to 10 degrees. and then after a minute of idling it slowly started rising up till it stopped at about 28 degrees. Then every time i would open up the throttle it would jump to 30 and stay there. I dont understand whats going on

 

[Mark_88]

With older Rangers like mine I had to remove the distributor vac line to set the timing...without removing that vac line the timing appeared to be about 30* advanced...

With newer Rangers and FI don't you have to remove a spout connector or something to set or check timing?