2.3L ('83-'97) Need suggestions for misfire and roughness

[bryanb]

Sorry if this has been covered. My search terms were not coming up with much.
1989 ranger, with automatic transmission. Was running pretty ok. 350k miles on it now
the last couple times of leaving it sit for a couple days, starts hard. Then idles pretty ok, but as soon as I touch the gas pedal starts to misfire, buck and backfire. Nothing notable has changed, as far as anything else wrong or maintenance. Did come back from a short hiway trip, the first in a few years.

luckily both times it seems to slowly clear up, getting better and better over time on that days trip.

with nothing else to go on, thought maybe id replace the plugs wires and fuel filter. None of which are real young, maybe 30-40k miles and 10 years old. Fuel pump is maybe 7 years old.

any other suggestions are appreciated. I’m able to work on it, but it’s been a long while.

thanks.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Next time you go to start it, try cycling the key on and off 3 or 4 times and see if it starts better. It could have a failed check ball.

 

[bryanb]

Still haven't had time to throw parts at it. I do have a set of plugs, wires, and fuel filter ready to go. and a timing belt.

Went to use it to move some stuff today for a friend, and it got a LOT worse. Misfiring on a lot of cylinders, and backfires. Higher RPM in neutral seemed -ok-, but in any gear, runs like crap. Also, a new development, doesn't go into reverse. The fluid has been low before, but not sure thats related. I don't know if there no RPM for it, or what. Drive, moves very slow, with a lot of misfires, and backfires.



and I suppose these kind of symptoms can be from pretty much anything, its a shame I can't narrow it down. . Weather is crap today. if its better soon, i might begin to look at it, otherwise the city does pick up junk vehicles for free.

 

[Brain75]

if you got misfires you should have codes... even an OBD1 system stores some stuff in the computer - pull the codes....

 

[bryanb]

if you got misfires you should have codes... even an OBD1 system stores some stuff in the computer - pull the codes....

Yeah! A friend mentioned that too. It made me think, I think I have a reader somewhere in the garage! I need to do some cleaning and find that!

 

[Brain75]

got an analog voltmeter? OBD1 codes can be pulled with just a voltmeter and patience:

Ford Ranger - Testing EEC-IV Equipped Engines

www.therangerstation.com

list of codes:

OBD-I Diagnostic Trouble Code - 2-Digit Ford Codes - The Ranger Station

Differences in test mode noted as: (O) = Key On Engine Off test (R) = Key On Engine Running test (M) = Memory code Code Definition 11 System checks OK 12 Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not … Continued

www.therangerstation.com

 

[bryanb]

I haven't forgot bout this!

Current sit-rep:
Truck eventually, over the winter, killed the battery, so no crank. Put the battery on a trickle charger about a month ago. the charger went to maintain mode, so assumed charged.
Got to replacing the plugs, wires, and coil packs. One pack arrived broken, but the old ones tested fine with a meter, so used an old one, and a new one. Put the new one on the intake side, so I can replace the other easily, later.

Noticed the timing belt needed replacing, like, NOW, while thinking about the crank position sensor. Replaced the belt, attempted to test the crank sensor, and seems to have passed. Not entirely sure.

So, we have new plugs, timing belt, and what looks like good timing marks. Tested crank sensor. 1 new coil pack, and still dead battery. tried to jump it with the subaru, no dice. Still no crank.

Actually moved the subaru batter over to ranger as a test. and it cranked, and it started, like right away! Hadn't finished with the serpentine belt, and fan, yet so only ran for a few seconds. Has a NASTY ticking sounds, like bad valve train. Also didn't try shifting the transmission (recall when the problem started, i could feel it shift into drive, but it didn't want to move, not sure thats related)

Will need to get a permanent replacement battery, and finish up putting stuff back on, but whats with the ticking@!?
I only ran it for like 10 seconds, a couple times. and it didn't quiet down. Does it take that long to get oil to the top of the motor after sitting for months?

 

[scotts90ranger]

Modern "smart" battery chargers don't output voltage unless there's like 6V or so so putting a battery charger on a dead battery does absolutely nothing which is super annoying, and dumb chargers aren't a thing anymore which is also annoying... The best way around this is to put a second charged battery in parallel (IE jumper cables) along with the charger and just leave it over night and eventually they'll equalize.

It sounds like you might be on the right track at least.

 

[Brain75]

I'm going to put a BIG BIG caveat / warning to the last post...
IF the dead battery is dead because it has developed a dead short inside it (lead sulfate crystals grow between plates and short them together) - then you are creating a connection between a very high power battery and a "low" resistance circuit - like a dead short... you can blow up a battery this way.
Also the transfer happens incredibly fast, which is why the cables get warm.
So, if you are doing as scott90 just suggested
A) use big fat cables like jumper cables not some tiny 12ga wire
B) hold your hand on the cable for the first 60 seconds or so to verify they are only getting warm not smoking hot - if they get real hot disconnect immediately.
otherwise, yes good advice and a good way to get a battery up to the minimum needed for a smart charger to take over and actually work.

I've jump started a battery this way in 10 minutes then put a trickle charger on it... some of the dumber smart chargers will even continue to charge after just one second as long as they initially see greater than some minimum voltage (my schumacher I think must be around 9v not 6...)

 

[scotts90ranger]

Good call... I thought about mentioning shorted plates but didn't get that far... I've had a lawn mower battery shorted enough to not work jumped from a diesel truck...

I was also just throwing out a number for the smart chargers dumbness, I think you're right about 9V...

 

[Terrys87]

I would have your battery tested at a parts store. They will do it for free. Sounds like it has been sitting for a while so some of the ticking could just be lifters filling back up. Check your transmission fluid and see if there is any in the transmission.

 

[bryanb]

UPDATE!
Got it all back together finally! New battery. Started right up, again, right away. Runs nice and smooth, Better than what I considered well, before this problem started. the valve rattle went away after a few seconds too.

Transmission still seems odd. the truck doenst move. I can feel it shift, and feel its in gear, but it doesn't want to move, like brakes are stuck, or its sitting behind a wheelchock. Transmission fluid looks black, and i might even say watery. I know I changed it a number of years ago, like 5 or more, but it wasn't good then either.

Could the brakes stuck sitting for so long? I honestly dont recall using the parking break, and its NOT engaged now, as far as the pedal goes anyway.

 

[SenorNoob]

Certainly possible. Can you roll it in neutral?

 

[bryanb]

Certainly possible. Can you roll it in neutral?

I need to get in the air and see what driveline silliness might be going on. A friend of a friend stopped by today, unrelated reason, and I started. Up and tried to shift, definitely feels stuck, and not high reving when in gear.
So I kinda wonder if the transmission is transmissioning, but it’s ‘stuck’ somehow.
I tried to push it in N but wasn’t successful. It is uphill and maybe sunk in the dirt a bit.

 

[I support common sense]

get a friend to push it while it is in neutral. I’ve learned from my own experience that the parking brake will lock up especially if you get it muddy or rusty.