need some 94 mazda b 2300 help no spark

[buddieboy]

okay let me please start with what i seem to have dune wrong . Changing routine timing put belt on but tweaked the csp just a little you have to take these loos as the big washed hits it . WEll i seemed to not have gotton it back right but im just saying it seemed higher and i was watching for any alignment necessary i thought dirt had got behind the cps brackett so i checked it wasnt i tried sanding about 20 thousandth off the base mounts still rubbing end wise so it would cut a small groove about 10 thousandths deep at the bottom center where the tin circles through i had found the top cam was out by one tooth i tried and corrected it . i had put paint on the auxiliary shaft to keep alignment . iTo make it short i have no spark now examining the cps seems ok it is tweaked im going to get on but im checking here for long shots as it seem prudent .Question im putting to hand is this if the new belt is changing the distributor sprue enough to stop the spark i used the paint mark and the key is strait up you know a chevy distributor has to be right on or it wont fire .someone hear can tell m right now it is or isnt the new belt and some slight change to the auxiliary position stoping spark ?
OK the next thing im wondering can the auxiliary shaft be rotated at the front sprocket like take the belt off and spin it in a circle(for a test) will this normally make the spark spark or should i expect that the crankshaft spin synchronous
to the distributor spru simultaneous or no go . IM asking some confusing stuff but i need some more diagnostic info so if when i get the cps on the thing tomorrow and if i still cant get i sparking of course i dont expect it to be the engine ecu module it has to do with the belt change scenario . IM a great mechanic but shit happens and im not a ford specialist comments welcom and thanks

 

[RonD]

'94 2.3l gets Spark timing from CKP(crank position) sensor located on the crankshaft.
This sensor is hooked directly to the ICM(ignition control module), ICM is located at the front of the intake manifold.
ICM is connected directly to the Dual coil packs.
So CKP sensor, ICM, and coil packs are an independent system for basic spark timing.

ICM does pass spark timing to Computer(EEC) so it can time fuel injectors and Computer does send back spark advance/retard "suggestions" to ICM.

And just a heads up, only the Exhaust side spark plugs(and coil pack) will have spark when starter motor is cranking engine, so if you are checking for spark on intake side plugs there will be no spark.
The intake side spark plugs will start working after engine starts, above 500rpms.


CPS(cam position sensor) is used to fine tune fuel injector timing, it doesn't effect spark plugs firing or not firing

 

[buddieboy]

'94 2.3l gets Spark timing from CKP(crank position) sensor located on the crankshaft.
This sensor is hooked directly to the ICM(ignition control module), ICM is located at the front of the intake manifold.
ICM is connected directly to the Dual coil packs.
So CKP sensor, ICM, and coil packs are an independent system for basic spark timing.

ICM does pass spark timing to Computer(EEC) so it can time fuel injectors and Computer does send back spark advance/retard "suggestions" to ICM.

And just a heads up, only the Exhaust side spark plugs(and coil pack) will have spark when starter motor is cranking engine, so if you are checking for spark on intake side plugs there will be no spark.
The intake side spark plugs will start working after engine starts, above 500rpms.


CPS(cam position sensor) is used to fine tune fuel injector timing, it doesn't effect spark plugs firing or not firing

Interesting point i wonder if this reduces intake backfire insidence who knows

 

[buddieboy]

got it going heres how or what

hey to day i went to autozone i purchased a new cps (sensor for 118 plus tax i didnt want to depend on the to picked over junk yards so i also got solder as i was running low on the fav gauge at home . Uncertain i went back home and began checking aliment after i soldered the 4 wires the duralast brand had the same color code as stock i cut the new sensor off the pigtail about 1 .75 inches from the sensor case i mad two outer wires .5 inches longer so the solder would be staggered a little used shrink tube ,plus black tape. I went to junk yards to see if i could find a used cps bracket as there as some thing off with mine 3 yards later and no bracket returned home and resigned my self to adjust the bracket with washers and possibly fileing or some combination of juggling the fit of bracket /sensor/ pulley hub tripper. i put 2 washers then 2 more this made it very close to fitting in the tracks on hub i had the included alignment jig/tool included with cps useing it and then eyeing fit i decided to tap the front of the bracket with a hammer this helped more to center it then i pried the bracket with the ened of my rachett against the auxiliary pully this finished centering to mounted cpu over the metal tripper tracks (reluctor?) i slightly tightened the center hub bolt and started the engine to my relief she started right up after that it was simply necessary to check any bolts like cam gear bolt and timeing tension er idler bolt i reinstalled the belt cover pully and fan and belt and restarted the belt got behind the power steering lines i heard some weird sound like clicking and saw the serpentine belt rubbing the back of the line when running i stopped loosened belt then moved it correctly ,after that i started it and let it run 20 minits ,then took road test .Since i changed the old timing by one tooth i was wondering what to expect well i can say its not any stronger in a few days if mileage is no better i may try to moved to the 1 notch back that it was at when i checked it strange thing when i first got the truck i checked the marks dont remember it showing off a notch so chock one up". for determination Trucks running if anything happens il try to post it also on second thought butt joint connectors mite have worked if you were very careful i couldn't pull the wires either way from behind the back of timing cover thats why i soldered im a good solderer if you cant solder good it wouldn't be a good work around