2.3L ('83-'97) Missfire at idle and loss of power. Engine idles smoothly with spout connector disconnected

[Juicyfruit85]

Hey guys! Been lurking on here the past month after getting a 88 ranger xlt 2.3l manual.

Basically at this point I've replaced plugs, plug wires, distributor & rotor, coil, clutch, slave cylinder, cat was gutted before I purchased, new muffler, air filter.

When I got the truck it had crazy preignition and sounded like rod knock but turned out the engine was running at -35btdc so I disconnected the spout connector and set the timing to 10btdc which cleared up all spark knock.

But now I'm having an issue of loss of power (almost always have to downshift to first/second on somewhat steep hills and I always lose speed on little inclines in 3rd and 4th even with the pedal to the floor) and a missfire at idle.

I've replaced mufler and my cat was gutted before I got it.

But I've noticed that if I disconnect the spout connector it idles AMAZINGLY

When my spout connector is connected the timing bounces back and forth between 10-12 degrees btdc and doesn't stay steady but that may be normal?

I think my CEL is burnt out so idk if it's throwing any diagnostics.

Any help would be much appreciated and all questions to help myself and anyone else are more than welcome!

 

[Juicyfruit85]

A thought I was wondering about is could the tfi module/ignition control module be bad? I've heard that the engine should just die out once it gets to tempt but mine will stay running just misfiring and shaky and loss of power it seems.

 

[Juicyfruit85]

Also is the check engine light supposed to flash when ignition is turned on? I've replaced the bulb and jumped the wire to the diagnostic port and even with a test light on pin #4 on the diagnostics I'm getting no light activity on the dash or test light

 

[Juicyfruit85]

Okay so I've gotten code 42 one KOER and 12 on KOEO what does this mean? 42 means running rich and 12 means isc is malfunctioning

 

[Juicyfruit85]

So no one has replied yet .___. so far my plugs do not look like they ran rich before and it does not smell rich from the exhaust. I am wondering if I have a bad 02 sensor which is telling my ecu that my engine is running rich so it's starving it for fuel which would also explain misfiring and lack of power... I think any help would be appreciated...

 

[tomw]

I would check the cam timing. If off. the engine will not run properly. You can set the pulley to TDC, and pop the plastic plug on the front of the cam belt cover. More or less behind the upper radiator hose. On the edge of the sprocket should be a triangle.
The size is about like this: "A", on the edge, likely a bit larger and without the 'crossbar'.
If you don't see it aligned with the pointer(may be a mark cast into the head), rotate the crank 360 degrees, one complete turn and check again. If it is not aligned, your timing is off and you need to R&R the belt to set it properly.
The spark timing is supposed to be fixed at 10BTDC(set by adjusting distributor), SPOUT connector out, engine warmed and at idle.
Set it wrong, and you may not have any power until you are at higher rpms, and will have little torque.
With the SPOUT connected, timing will be diddled by the computer. It uses sensors, MAP, CTS, ACT , TPS, and knock sensor to make its decisions. You may see timing as far advanced as 35BTDC in some cases.(I actually don't know the advance limit).
tom

 

[Juicyfruit85]

I was wondering about cam timing as well... From what I can see online the timing mark is on the backside of the plastic cover.... Sadly.... Someone cut the cover up...... And I can't find it and my cam pullie is pretty rusty.... Is there any alternative ways of checking cam timing?

 

[Juicyfruit85]

I was wondering about cam timing as well... From what I can see online the timing mark is on the backside of the plastic cover.... Sadly.... Someone cut the cover up...... And I can't find it and my cam pullie is pretty rusty.... Is there any alternative ways of checking cam timing?

 

[Juicyfruit85]

I know there's supposed to be a little imprint on the very edge of the pulley but neither here nor if I rotate it 360 degrees can I find it... I also get quite a bit of missfiring/popping out of my exhaust when coasting in gear

 

[Juicyfruit85]

I just read another post on another thread about lining the the crank to tdc and taping a string to the center of the auxillary shaft bolt head and lineing it up to the center of the cam shaft bolt head and lineing the timing mark up to the string? Is that extra nub on my cam pullie the timing mark? If so I am one tooth off.

 

[Juicyfruit85]

I just read another post on another thread about lining the the crank to tdc and taping a string to the center of the auxillary shaft but head and lineing it up to the center of the cam shaft bolt head and lineing the timing mark up to the string? Is that extra nub on my cam pullie the timing mark? If so I am one tooth off.

 

[Juicyfruit85]

https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/1980s-ford-2-3l-timing-help.150906/ this is the forum I got the string thing from

 

[Juicyfruit85]

Also I redact that the engine idles "AMAZINGLY" without the spout connector it. It's definitely improved but not amazing. I got to listen to some 4 cylinder rangers near me at stop lights and they pur like kittens and mine more like a lumpy weird mess of bangs

 

[Juicyfruit85]

From what I'm seeing I just looked up a YouTube video on changing the timing belt and the image attached below is where his cam rest at tdc. If you look at it compared to mine then mine is exactly 1 tooth off!!!

 

[Juicyfruit85]

I think I'm going to try moving the cam one tooth over tonight as long as no one tells me otherwise. From what I can find it is currently off