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Mechanic lied?


computersoc

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2013
Messages
121
Transmission
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2001 Ford Ranger XLT 2.5L RWD, has ABS

How many brake lines does this truck have? I went to a mechanic and said I want all my brake lines changed. Nothing under the hood is new going to the master cylinder (aside from the newer looking one that was replaced a few years ago that goes to the rear) and then under the truck the line at the rear differential wasn't replaced either. Before I accuse the shop of anything, is there anywhere else that I should check to see if they misunderstood and replaced instead?



I gave them this also:

The one guy at the shop even said the under the hood ones are fine but they don't look it.
 
Maybe he thought you meant the hoses? Its a much more common replacement item than the metal lines.

That said, if you specified the metal lines and provided them with the tube to use, then I'd say that they owe you some answers.
 
I supplied the metal lines in that Amazon link. I didn't supply any tube. Maybe that's why he said the metal lines are fine even though they look corroded as heck? He said the metal lines don't bust.

How many plastic lines are there?
 
There are 3 flex lines
1 at each front wheel and one above rear axle

The rear brake's METAL line can rust out, between fuel tank and frame rail, happened on 2 of my Rangers


To answer your question
There are 2 metal lines from Master to 4 Wheel ABS unit(in picture)
Then 1 metal line to each front wheel, and 1 metal line to rear axle, runs inside drivers side frame rail
So total of 5, as seen in picture

And then 2 metal lines on the rear axle housing, 1 to each wheel
 
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So it sounds like they may have replaced the flex lines and not the metal lines?

The picture I posted, should those metal linds get replaced asap? What specifically should I ask for since it appears I didnt get what I wanted?

The one metal line that was replaced a few years ago is the one that goes all the way to the back between the frame rail and gas tank.
 
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The ones in the pic provided are in good shape with minor surface corrosion started. Most under hood lines last a lot longer than under body lines due to them not being hit by the elements and salt.

The ones that need replacing will usually look scaly with rust flakes falling off. Thes are the one that are likely to leak or completely blow out. Any metal line can blow out so if they said metal lines dont blow this is a false statement.

Time for answers from the shop manager. I understand the frustration with shops not replacing specificed components that were requested by the customer. I had a local shop do a gas tank in my old civic because I'm just to thick to get under it to replace the tank and specifically told them to replace the straps while the tank was out. Well 3 months later I was ordering straps and replacing them being squished by a car i needed to lift the corners on just to get a standard shop floor jack under the lift points.

I understand not replacing parts that are not broken, since I have worked in shops, but in some cases like gas tank straps should be replaced in the salt use areas due to once disturbed they will break soon after. There are other parts that also follow this rule but enough about my experiences. You need to ask questions and ask for explanations for why the requested work was not completed to your specified request since you are paying for the service.


Edit: I to have replace the line running down the frame to the rear axle like Ron D mentioned. I to just this last summer did my front break hoses due to dry rot which is common with an older vehicle.
 
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Metal lines often rust and fail. After blowing out the lines that run on the rear axle tube of my first Ranger twice, I put stainless line on it. That was before the Ni-Copper stuff and stainless line is a PITA to do. Now I replace everything with the Ni-Copper.

Unfortunately there are a lot of shops that aren’t very honest. I took to doing nearly all of my own mechanic work because I don’t trust people.
 
1. If you provided metal brake line, I don't see why they would change the rubber ones.
2. Did you make it clear that you wanted ALL the metal lines replaced? that could be a very tedious job, and shops charge by the HOUR. Maybe they just replaced the ones that looked bad to them.
3. Did the receipt explain what they did & what they charged you for?
 
I agree that the brake lines in your picture are fine, they have surface rust and are ugly but they'll last a long time looking like that. Before accusing anyone of lying to you, I'd ask them specifically which lines they replaced. They may have replaced only what was needed to avoid taking advantage of you. Replacing more lines takes more time, more time costs more money. I worked at a service station for 3 years and a Ford dealer for 42 years and encountered very few dishonest shops. Incompetent independent shops is another story.
 
Usually, i ask to see the old parts that were taken off, and ask them to point to ( on the vehicle ) the new part that they put on, if its not clearly visible, get down on the ground if you have to. I usually also ask to keep the old parts, if there isnt a core charge, they shouldn't have a problem with that. I try to stay away from nationwide chains like Pep-idiots, and ask freinds for a reliable mechanic shop locally owned/operated. Most mechanics dont want to be called a hack or liar, so they do good honest work.
 
Unfortunately there are a lot of shops that aren’t very honest. I took to doing nearly all of my own mechanic work because I don’t trust people.

This is exactly why I do most of my own repair work unless I don't have the equipment and it is too expensive for me to buy in order to do the job. I may get angry, frustrated, etc in the process but at least I know it was done right the first time and what I wanted to get done got done.

To the OP, I would look at what work was done and talk to the manager/owner asking why what you asked for was not done. It doesn't matter whether it needed to be done or not. You asked for a specific job to be done and it wasn't.
 
my question is... what did he charge you for? you should have an itemized bill saying what he did/ what he replaced.

if you provided the parts, he should have noted the parts including hte part number and a note that "customer provided, no charge" for those parts.

AJ
 
Honestly you are better off bending your own lines and replacing them if you really want them replaced. The shop is gonna charge you an arm and a leg to get it done the copper nickel stuff bends really easy and lasts a really long time. You can get a hand bender or a pair of pliers style. Some times its best not to over think it just make sure your e brake works.
 

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