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M5OD Rebuild..an odd occurrence??


94exsport

Member
Joined
May 28, 2017
Messages
5
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
I'll start off by saying this is a very long post, but to get straight to the question go to paragraph #8.. I have a 1994 Explorer Sport 4x4 5 speed. A junkyard 1994 Explorer M5OD is in it right now and has been for about 5 years.

Since the moment it was put in, 2nd and 4th gear would grind no matter how much the clutch was bled or what kind of fluid was used. Also the first 2 drain/fills were totally metallic goo, I'm surprised this thing has lasted 5 additional years of abuse! Okay, recently 2nd gear started making a terrible noise when engaged, a loud and fast rhythmic knocking, but it does have power flow through the gear albeit it doesn't feel right, so I assume it's toast and have been shifting from 1st-3rd religiously for the past year.

Anyways, I recently have come to figure out that the original transmission that was installed when I got the Explorer, was a unicorn..a 1992 Ranger 2.9 4x4 M5OD. As most of you may know, this transmission is a direct swap for the 4.0, as the bellhousings are the same, and they also have steeper 1-3 gearing than a 4.0 geared trans, with 4th 5th and reverse having the same ratios. Also, it's incredibly hard to find as nearly all 4x4s used the Mitsubishi transmission in the Ranger.

So several years ago, the 2.9 trans locked up while backing out of a parking space, leading to me installing the current junkyard 4.0 transmission. The locked up 2.9 trans sat in the trunk of my car for years without me knowing it was in fact a 2.9 M5OD trans.

Getting to the point here..I need to replace this junkyard 4.0 trans that's on its way out, so I found a cheap rebuilt 3.0 4x4 trans on eBay. I didn't know at the time it was a 3.0 version, as it was listed as a 2.9 m5od (sucked figuring that out when I got it delivered, but I should have known being it's as rare as that one is). Regardless it was pretty cheap and rebuilt, so oh well.

So I get around to cracking my old 2.9 M5OD open and totally disassemble the it, leaving an empty case. I took this time to degrease, pressure wash and remove the old black paint from it with a 1" wire brush and drill. Once reconditioned, I set that case to the side being it's ready to be built. So then, I get to opening the 3.0 transmission and see it's VERY new on the inside, literally no wear on much of anything, and I start disassembling that one too, to place all of it's internals into the older 2.9/4.0 case that's reconditioned.

Well I get it all apart. I have 2 fully disassembled transmissions laying in front of me and I start looking at and counting the gear teeth on the main shafts and also the countershafts. Here is where I come across something very odd! I'm counting the gearset teeth on the 2.9 transmission, and it lines up with what I read it should be, tooth count-wise. Then I get to counting the 3.0 case's gearset, and find out whoever rebuilt it, put a 4.0 gearset in it! Okay, but that may not be ideal for someone who planned to use it for a 3.0..considering it's supposed to have the shorter 1-3 gears.

So okay here's the big one. I'm counting the countershafts now..10+ times btw just to make sure what I'm seeing is true..and find out that the 2.9 transmission, had a 4.0 countershaft in it the entire time! Also, the 3.0 cased rebuilt transmission, which has 4.0 internals installed, was mated with a 2.9 countershaft?! What? In my mind that shouldn't really work should it? The two countershafts have different tooth counts obviously for 1-3 gears, but wouldn't you think the 2.9 gearset would only mesh and work correctly with the 2.9 countershaft? Same with the other, 4.0 gearset should only mesh and work correctly with a 4.0 countershaft??

I'm so confused, have called a few transmission shops and Ford shops, they are all confused on what to say. I explained that if I brought my trans to them, a 2.9 trans, and said my countershaft broke and needed to be replaced, they said they would order a 2.9 countershaft without even thinking twice about it. My mind just doesn't calculate this correctly, but regardless both gear sets ran and meshed perfectly together, even though neither technically had the correct countershaft installed for their gearsets.

So this leads to another question! People that have completed the low gear swap on the m5od, if you had a 4.0 set and did that swap, did you also change your countershaft to a 2.9 one? Or is it known knowledge that the 2.9 gearset will work fine with a 4.0 countershaft and vice versa? Someone please chime in on this, I know it's a huge post, but I have seen bigger and just need some opinions on this.

I had wanted to use the new 2.9 countershaft with my old 2.9 gearing, due to it being new, but the master ford tech I called for advice said even though that sounds like the right thing to do, to keep the 2.9 set matched with the 4.0 countershaft. It worked, didn't cause odd wear issues, none at all actually, and is actually a little bigger anyway. The largest gear on the 4.0 countershaft is slightly larger and almost 1/8" wider than the 2.9's. Of course this must mean, that the 2.9 trans mated with a 4.0 countershaft (which I'll remind everyone was originally in my vehicle for 2 years no problems at all) must have a slightly different gear ratio than a 2.9 set w/ 2.9 shaft OR a 4.0 set w/ 4.0 shaft, it must be a hybrid gear ratio between the two.

If someone could calculate the ratio of the 2.9 gearset/4.0 countershaft combination, that would be great. Please help guys! I can add pics later if needed as everything is still apart. This is a confusing one to me, just want to put the rest together so half of my living room isn't littered with transmission components. Thanks to anybody that attempts to help!
 
Just count the teeth on the mating gears. You will have a smaller gear with less teeth against a larger gear with more teeth, unless it's the overdrive gear. Divide the smaller teeth number into the larger gear teeth number. The result is the ratio for those two gears.

As an example; On a set of meshed gears, the smaller one has 20 teeth, the larger one has 35 teeth. 35 divided by 20 equals 1.75. The ratio between those two gears is 1.75 to 1.
 
Just count the teeth on the mating gears. You will have a smaller gear with less teeth against a larger gear with more teeth, unless it's the overdrive gear. Divide the smaller teeth number into the larger gear teeth number. The result is the ratio for those two gears.

As an example; On a set of meshed gears, the smaller one has 20 teeth, the larger one has 35 teeth. 35 divided by 20 equals 1.75. The ratio between those two gears is 1.75 to 1.
Thanks for that! In you're opinion, does it make sense that either a 2.9 or 4.0 countershaft can work with both 2.9 and 4.0 gearsets?
 
I don't know about the guts too much. I haven't gotten too deep into transmissions very often. A couple of years ago I took apart a Toyo Kogo 5 speed that was behind a 2.8, and I never got it back together, the counter gear cluster had a gear with some teeth missing. Could I have gotten it back together if I bought another cluster gear? I am not sure. There are a lot of pieces in there.
 
Thanks for that! In you're opinion, does it make sense that either a 2.9 or 4.0 countershaft can work with both 2.9 and 4.0 gearsets?

I have rebuilt several M5ODs... this does not make any sense to me.

First: the 4.0 OHV gear set is unique to 4.0 transmissions, ALL others (2.3/2.5 Lima, 2.9, 3.0) had the same gear set. That's why you will see parts advertised as "4.0 countershaft" etc. For the purposes of this discussion also keep in mind that M5ODs had internal changes in the late 90's and again in or around 2001 so it is best for you to keep your parts search isolated to about 1997 or older.

Secondly: I have never tried assembling a transmission with parts from both, never saw the point, it's not really a matter of just the countershaft being different... the input shaft and 1-2-3 gears are all different as well. They are kind of a matched set, you need to use a high gear 4.0 gear set with a 4.0 countershaft and 4.0 input... and that is true for the low gear parts too. Mixing and matching will guarantee failure because something will not mess correctly.

Tooth counts will be your best friend here. I was able to figure out what I needed by looking at a bunch of parts listings on eBay, often they would have tooth counts listed for particular applications. I thought I had a list compiled of what should go where but I can't find it.
 
I have rebuilt several M5ODs... this does not make any sense to me.

First: the 4.0 gear set is unique to 4.0 transmissions, ALL others (2.3/2.5 Lima, 2.9, 3.0) had the same gear set. That's why you will see parts advertised as "4.0 countershaft" etc

Secondly: I have never tried assembling a transmission with parts from both, never saw the point, it's not really a matter of just the countershaft being different... the input shaft and 1-2-3 gears are all different as well. They are kind of a matched set, you need to use a high gear 4.0 gear set with a 4.0 countershaft and 4.0 input... and that is true for the low gear parts too. Mixing and matching will guarantee failure because something will not mess correctly.

Tooth counts will be your best friend here. I was able to figure out what I needed by looking at a bunch of parts listings on eBay, often they would have tooth counts listed for particular applications. I thought I had a list compiled of what should go where but I can't find it.
Hello, thanks for your advice! I agree with the fact that it doesn't make sense, hence why I wrote this post! It's actually baffling to me still, that I drove a 2.9 m5od gearset mated with a 4.0 countershaft for several years with no funny issues or odd wear issues..I'd like to clarify that BOTH transmissions I have cracked open had the wrong countershafts in them, and they were both ran in vehicles..this is what I need insight on, should I keep using the 4.0 countershaft that was already mated to the 2.9 gearset, or install the 2.9 countershaft that was in the 4.0 geared transmission to go with the 2.9 gearset? Please re read paragraph 8 of the main post as I know it's confusing!! Lol
 
Well correct me if I have misunderstood here.... you have two M5ODs that were in your truck (one locked up, one that makes a lot of noise) plus a third 3.0 trans that is "rebuilt" but has mismatched parts in it? Why did the first one lock up on you? And the 3.0 trans has not been run yet, correct? So you are not sure if it is actually functional or not?

I found my countershaft comparision:
2.3/2.9/3.0 has countershaft tooth count 38-32-24-16, 23 tooth input shaft
4.0's have countershaft tooth count 38-34-25-17, 23 tooth input BUT different than the other

I would advise you to use the correct parts. Even if it was somehow working, it's not right - I've seen a lot of "mint" vehicles with wire nuts, zip ties and bubble gum holding things together, sure it "works" but it's best to just do it the right way. I would also really, really scrutinize all of your used pieces... transmissions don't just lock up for no reason... chances are something is damaged and my observations lead my to believe that the input shaft and countershaft take the brunt of whatever fails.
 
Well correct me if I have misunderstood here.... you have two M5ODs that were in your truck (one locked up, one that makes a lot of noise) plus a third 3.0 trans that is "rebuilt" but has mismatched parts in it? Why did the first one lock up on you? And the 3.0 trans has not been run yet, correct? So you are not sure if it is actually functional or not?

I found my countershaft comparision:
2.3/2.9/3.0 has countershaft tooth count 38-32-24-16, 23 tooth input shaft
4.0's have countershaft tooth count 38-34-25-17, 23 tooth input BUT different than the other

I would advise you to use the correct parts. Even if it was somehow working, it's not right - I've seen a lot of "mint" vehicles with wire nuts, zip ties and bubble gum holding things together, sure it "works" but it's best to just do it the right way. I would also really, really scrutinize all of your used pieces... transmissions don't just lock up for no reason... chances are something is damaged and my observations lead my to believe that the input shaft and countershaft take the brunt of whatever fails.
Yes, the 3.0 cased rebuilt transmission, which was rebuilt using a 4.0 gearset and was mated with a 2.9 countershaft, ran...and so did the 2.9 geared transmission, which was mated with a 4.0 countershaft. They both worked, with mismatched countershafts. The 2.9 trans locked up on me because the reverse idler gear broke as I was reversing out of a parking spot, after being in the vehicle for 2+ years..before that it ran flawlessly... I did count all the teeth a multitude of times, just to be positive what I found is correct!
 
One thing I did figure out on the trans I took apart. The very two front gears had missing teeth. As I was taking it apart, I found these little interlock pieces with small springs were missing in the shifter rail area. These interlock pieces prevent the trans from being engaged in two gears at the same time. With those pieces missing I am sure that is what happened, it ended up in two gears at once and locked it up going down the road. You could see some rtv here and there where someone had been in it before.

Too bad they failed to put those pieces back in and caused it to catastrophically break. It's amazing to think about the machinery that fails just because someone didn't put it back together correctly. I have been guilty of this myself.
 
:popcorn:I only know transmissions at the animation and cut-away level, i.e. never had one fully apart on the bench, BUT... as Shran said, HOW would things MESH? Even with a 2 tooth difference, either the DIAMETER is going to be off, or the tooth PITCH and/or DEPTH is going to be off, either way, it seems the opposite of meshing would occur, i.e. NOISY lock-up, followed by sheared teeth, before you even got out of neutral. :eek:
 
:popcorn:I only know transmissions at the animation and cut-away level, i.e. never had one fully apart on the bench, BUT... as Shran said, HOW would things MESH? Even with a 2 tooth difference, either the DIAMETER is going to be off, or the tooth PITCH and/or DEPTH is going to be off, either way, it seems the opposite of meshing would occur, i.e. NOISY lock-up, followed by sheared teeth, before you even got out of neutral. :eek:
This is exactly what has my mind going bananas! Tomorrow I will mock up each main shaft with both countershafts in a case and see what happens. Idk, obviously the rebuilt 4.0 gearset and my old 4.0 countershaft together should work and my old 2.9 gearset & the new 2.9 countershaft should work, but to me this is a truly crazy occurrence..the fact that I personally drove the 2.9 trans/gearset which was meshed with the 4.0 countershaft for several years is what has me confused. Then it just added to the confusion that when I took apart the 3.0 transmission case, not only did it have a rebuilt 4.0 gearset, IT was meshed with a new looking 2.9/3.0 countershaft. Both transmissions, that were ran in vehicles with no odd wear or anything, didn't have the correct countershafts for their gearsets. Just messes with my brain! All I wanted to do was use the nice new countershaft from the rebuilt transmission, with the still very good looking 2.9 gearset since I already had everything apart and why not use the better looking parts, but to double check that's when I decided to start counting teeth and came to this wickedness..like I said I was told by some people to keep the 2.9 set with the 4.0 shaft since they were ran together, and some people are saying use the 2.9 countershaft with the 2.9 gearset and that the 2.9 gearset shouldn't have worked at all with the 4.0 countershaft. Only problem is it did!! Also for anyone's information, the 2.9 transmission's failure was that the metal rings from the shifter bushings got back there eventually and got in-between the reverse idler and it's gear. They were still jammed in-between them when I took it all apart. Sorry for the huge single paragraph I'm tired! Lol.
 

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