Knocking from bellhousing area

[Project_Splash 4.0]

Hi there, new here and to the ranger platform, recently bought a 1998 splash 4.0 auto and there’s a knocking noise that I initially thought was a possible rod knock but upon throwing it on a life and scoping it the noise is more pinpointed in the bellhousing. The transmission looks relatively(maybe 10kish miles on it?)new possibly replaced by previous owner. Noise doesn’t get louder with increased rpm but is very pronounced at idle in park or in gear. Truck runs and shifts perfectly so I’m a little at loss what it could be, damaged flex plate possibly? Wanted to see if this is something common or something someone has experienced before pulling the tranny. Thanks!

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Check the converter bolts, make sure they are tight. It could possibly be a cracked flexplate too.

 

[Project_Splash 4.0]

Check the converter bolts, make sure they are tight. It could possibly be a cracked flexplate too.

Thanks for the response! That was going to be my game plan, I also saw that there is a spacer that is supposed to go between the crank and flex plate that is commonly forgotten when pulling the tranny, not too sure if that could be the issue, maybe the incorrect spacing could have it getting caught up on the starter? Looks like either way the trannys going to come out, I’ll purchase a flex plate and spacer just in case and hope that’s all is, fingers crossed!

 

[Shran]

Spacer is probably not the issue, if it was left out, it would cause some severe starter engagement problems right away among other things. The main problem with those (way before your truck's time) is that they would crack and fall apart. I don't believe that was an issue at all after the early-mid 90's.

You can check the torque converter nuts just by pulling the starter and looking through the hole it resides in - spin the engine over by hand until you can verify that each one is present and tight. Might be able to sneak a camera in there to examine the flex plate as well for cracks - I don't recall how much room there is but a bore scope might fit between the block plate and flex plate through the starter hole. Much easier than pulling the trans to look at it

 

[RobbieD]

Before buying parts, it's not too much trouble to pull the starter and inspect the flexplate, for cracks at its base. You can use a prybar on the plate's starter teeth to rotate it for a full 360 inspection.

Agree with @Shran on the spacer. Sick minds think alike . . .

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Before buying parts, it's not too much trouble to pull the starter and inspect the flexplate, for cracks at its base. You can use a prybar on the plate's starter teeth to rotate it for a full 360 inspection.

Agree with @Shran on the spacer. Sick minds think alike . . .

Id put a socket on the crank pulley to turn it....ive chipped a flywheel tooth using a bar lol

 

[Project_Splash 4.0]

Spacer is probably not the issue, if it was left out, it would cause some severe starter engagement problems right away among other things. The main problem with those (way before your truck's time) is that they would crack and fall apart. I don't believe that was an issue at all after the early-mid 90's.

You can check the torque converter nuts just by pulling the starter and looking through the hole it resides in - spin the engine over by hand until you can verify that each one is present and tight. Might be able to sneak a camera in there to examine the flex plate as well for cracks - I don't recall how much room there is but a bore scope might fit between the block plate and flex plate through the starter hole. Much easier than pulling the trans to look at it

Copy, makes sense I just came across a article about someone mentioning an issue with the spacer so figured I just mention it haha. Good call, I’ll pull the starter and see if I can snake my bore scope in there and check the converter bolts and inspect the flex plate as well. Appreciate the feedback! Will update what I find upon inspection.

 

[pjtoledo]

don't forget the flex plate to crank bolts.