For some reason I keep having to change the fuse. Its really annoyinghaving your radio and dash lights go out all the time. Is there any reason this would happen or things to check?
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keep blowing fuse #1
- Thread starter RavoHimself
- Start date
If you have an aftermarket radio installed it could be drawing more current than the fuse allows.
Fuse 1 supplies: radio, domelight through the switch on the headlight knob, courtesy lights, glovebox light, and power mirror if installed.
Instrument panel lights are through fuse 10 so it's surprising that your dash lamps go out too. You may have some complex short circuit happening there.
According to the diagram I have 10 is the license plate lights, brake lights, abs, keep alive power.
It does have an aftermarket pioneer radio. Do you think I could just upgrade to a 20 amp fuse or do you think I might damage something else
It does have an aftermarket pioneer radio. Do you think I could just upgrade to a 20 amp fuse or do you think I might damage something else
This from the Ford 93 Service Manual CD:
F10: RABS, BOO switch, chime, exterior lamps (park, stop, license plate) instrument lamps (including radio illumination) through dimmer and F13.
Putting in a bigger fuse is never a good idea. They are sized for the gauge of wire in the circuit they are protecting. It would be better to run a separate wire and fuse for your radio.
Try disconnecting the radio and see if the fuse still blows. You still may have an actual short somewhere.
the only problem with that is sometimes it blows after a few days and sometimes a few weeks. i would never be able to tell just by unplugging the radio. is there any place you would think to check for shorts or any input on this. i really would like it back up and running. one time i saw the fuse blow at night while pushing the e brake but i cant really see any wires that look worn around the mechanism
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Did you put tue radio in yourself? Perhaps a wire came lose and is shorting out now and then, maybe a ground is loose?
A fuse that blows randomly is caused by one of two things:
Were it my truck, I would build some gadget that would allow me to connect an ammeter in series with the fuse. If the reading was at a comfortably low level with all the items on that branch running, I would suspect cause #1. If the load was at some continual high level so that any added load would blow the fuse, that would be cause #2.
Depending on the type of your aftermarket radio, and your particular listening habits, that could be the issue. Some aftermarket radios could be more of a current hog than the stock radio. If you like to play it loud, with boomy bass, that would cause current spikes that might blow the fuse. This would fall under cause #2.
If you have an intermittent solid short- a cracked or cut wire that occasionally touches chassis metal- good luck. Stuff like that is notoriously difficult to find. Best approach is to try to isolate the different branches then get in there with an ohmmeter and start wiggling wires, and use a magnifying glass for visual inspection.
I assume we're still talking about fuse #1. Looking at the wiring diagram, there's a lot of places this circuit goes- the door switches for the interior lighting, the main (headlight) switch for the courtesy light switch there, the dome light, the glove box light, and the cargo box light on the rear outside of the cab. This all in addition to the radio power.
You mentioned the parking brake. The brake warning lights are associated with fuses 5 and 7, not likely to cause a problem on fuse circuit #1.
- A solid short that occurs randomly
- A steady building load that needs just one more little thing added to exceed the fuse rating
Were it my truck, I would build some gadget that would allow me to connect an ammeter in series with the fuse. If the reading was at a comfortably low level with all the items on that branch running, I would suspect cause #1. If the load was at some continual high level so that any added load would blow the fuse, that would be cause #2.
Depending on the type of your aftermarket radio, and your particular listening habits, that could be the issue. Some aftermarket radios could be more of a current hog than the stock radio. If you like to play it loud, with boomy bass, that would cause current spikes that might blow the fuse. This would fall under cause #2.
If you have an intermittent solid short- a cracked or cut wire that occasionally touches chassis metal- good luck. Stuff like that is notoriously difficult to find. Best approach is to try to isolate the different branches then get in there with an ohmmeter and start wiggling wires, and use a magnifying glass for visual inspection.
I assume we're still talking about fuse #1. Looking at the wiring diagram, there's a lot of places this circuit goes- the door switches for the interior lighting, the main (headlight) switch for the courtesy light switch there, the dome light, the glove box light, and the cargo box light on the rear outside of the cab. This all in addition to the radio power.
You mentioned the parking brake. The brake warning lights are associated with fuses 5 and 7, not likely to cause a problem on fuse circuit #1.
well i was just wondering for the brake if it was rubbing a wire and it stripped the insulation but theres nothing. i checked my radio wiring. everything looks solid. i soldered everything and heat shrinked it so nothing should come loose. would a loose ground cause it?
also i dont have power mirrors on my truck so im already down a load on the circuit so im really hesitant to say its option #2
also. it never seems so go out while im driving or listening to music. its either on start up or shut down because i never hear it go. the only time i ever saw it blow was pushing the e brake which should have nothing to do with fuse #1. the only wire thats close to the mechanism is my ground wire that i ran for my driver side mirror light. the positive wire is connected to the brown running light wire behind the headlight switch. idk if that would have anything to do with the dome light circuit or anything but ill check that wire again for torn insulation
also i dont have power mirrors on my truck so im already down a load on the circuit so im really hesitant to say its option #2
also. it never seems so go out while im driving or listening to music. its either on start up or shut down because i never hear it go. the only time i ever saw it blow was pushing the e brake which should have nothing to do with fuse #1. the only wire thats close to the mechanism is my ground wire that i ran for my driver side mirror light. the positive wire is connected to the brown running light wire behind the headlight switch. idk if that would have anything to do with the dome light circuit or anything but ill check that wire again for torn insulation
Your task would be much easier if you had a good wiring diagram.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2209706&postcount=12
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2209706&postcount=12
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