jeep cherokee vs ranger

[James86]

Where did you find that gibberish.

I've worked on GM 2.8s and I'm familiar with the Ford 2.8. Pretty sure they aren't the same engine.

The Ford 2.8 was an evolution of the Tanus V4. The GM 2.8 was a similar 60* push rod engine, but the Ford 2.8 was a clear evolution of the Tanus and Cologne engines, its not a GM engine.

Well, wikipedia lists the 2.8 chevy here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_Cherokee_(XJ)#Engines

It's also here:
http://www.automotix.net/engines/1986-jeep-cherokee-rebuilt_engines-gmc_173lb_6.html

Here is swappinng from a 2.8 to a 3.4
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Project_XJ/Project_XJ.htm

Specs on wikipedia:

LR2
The longitudinal LR2 was a truck version ("B-code") produced from 1982 to 1990. It used a 2-barrel carburetor and produced 115 hp (86 kW) and 150 lb·ft (203 N·m).

Applications:

1982-1986 Chevrolet S-10/Chevrolet S-10 Blazer
1982-1986 GMC S-15/GMC S-15 Jimmy
1984-1986 Jeep Cherokee
1986 Jeep Comanche


As for the Motorcraft carb thing, I heard that one a long time ago, and knowing how cobbled the AMC's were (an AMC Eagle has a Chrysler 3spd auto but the Jeeps like my dad's Grand Wagoneer had TH350's behind the 5.9 - go figure) I didn't really doubt it. Looking all over the internet at part sites, though, they list a 2bbl Rochester as a replacement. Sorry if I confused anyone- I'll retract the Motorcraft carb comment.

The reason they used the 2.8 was it shared a bell housing with the 2.5 I4, and the price was probably right. the fact it was dumped in about 2 years and they shoehorned their own 4.0 in shows what even they thought of it.

 

[Jason]

cherokees are nice but u'll need to upgrade or get a new axle for anything over 33's and even 33's a dana 30 is alittle weak for it.

the d35 on rangers with upgraded u joints can easily run 35's with alittle moderation. and equal in strength of the d44 u'd swap into the cherokee...

just some food for thought...

Much like the Ranger. The D-35 is one of the most common stock rear axles on the Cherokees. Right behind the 8.25 Corporate axle. And frankly, the d-35 is nothing even close to the 44. The Dana 30 was only used on the front of any one of the Cherokees I have owned, worked on, or seen. The rears were D35, Chrysler 8.25, or D44.

 

[Boghog1]

That is not entirely true, the starter for the 4.0 is twice as much as the ranger, but it also last 3X longer. In all the jeeps Ive owned Ive only had to replace one alternator and one starter. I have had to replace a bunch of injectors but that is the nature of the beast

I never replaced a starter and only did one alternator on my 88, but the starters between a ford ranger and a jeep Cherokee are almost identical prices.
prices on rock Auto range from 75 to 150 for a 96 Cherokee and from 71 to 142 on a 96 Ranger with a 4.0 not exactly a lot more expensive. labor rates are the same when you go to a shop and if you would like I can get flat rate hours for any repair you want to compare. Alternators run 130-165 for the jeep and 108-250 for the ford.

I am not being a Jeep loyalist they have their issues, just like any manufacturer but spreading lies about something you (used collectively) have no first hand experience on is wrong. it would be like trashing the cummins engine saying it sucks because of lift pump failures. or the Ford 4.0 SOHC because some have noisy timing chains that just can't seem to be fixed.

 

[1993]

thanks alot everyone

 

[rockwerks]

Where did you find that gibberish.

I've worked on GM 2.8s and I'm familiar with the Ford 2.8. Pretty sure they aren't the same engine.

The Ford 2.8 was an evolution of the Tanus V4. The GM 2.8 was a similar 60* push rod engine, but the Ford 2.8 was a clear evolution of the Tanus and Cologne engines, its not a GM engine.

Man you are clueless when it comes to jeeps LOL yes the jeep cherokee and Comanche's both came with a 2.8 GM V6 from 84-86, then the 4.0 inline 6 from 87-01 with a change to HO 4.0 in 91.

cherokees are nice but u'll need to upgrade or get a new axle for anything over 33's and even 33's a dana 30 is alittle weak for it.

the d35 on rangers with upgraded u joints can easily run 35's with alittle moderation. and equal in strength of the d44 u'd swap into the cherokee...

just some food for thought...

Many, many, many wrangler and Cherokee guys run 35's on the d30's and d35 combo with little issues. yes you break a shaft now and then but that is why you carry spares on the trail. with the jeeps it is only a few minute job to change out a front shaft

 

[TheOne]

And frankly, the d-35 is nothing even close to the 44.

dude it even on the site...the only difference in the d35 and d44 would be knuckles and the neck of the shaft!
swap the knuckles over and use the stub shaft for a d44 and u have a d44 basically. again the neck is the only difference..

i have a thing against jeeps...i really like the cherokee and all but i see prices for jeep stuff around here and it blows me away...a tj door on kijiji runs around $400...ud be lucky to get 2 for that price! and its a jeep

id MUCH rather have a more common rig like an explorer with a manual tranny!
same thing as a cherokee with (IMO) better starting axles....

 

[Boghog1]

so you are saying a TTB Dana 35 is better than a hi pinion 30 for a front axle. I will not argue that a 31 spline 8.8 out of a ford explorer is superior to a Dana 35 but the 35 is but one of the available options in the rear of a Cherokee. You also bring up the cost of a wrangler which is much more expensive than a Cherokee I can buy 2 Cherokees around here in New England for what I can get one Ranger,

A Cherokee is a great option for hauling people over rugged terrain, a ranger is a great option for hauling cargo over rugged terrain, Explorers and Wranglers shouldn't even be brought into the discussion

 

[Jason]

dude it even on the site...the only difference in the d35 and d44 would be knuckles and the neck of the shaft!
swap the knuckles over and use the stub shaft for a d44 and u have a d44 basically. again the neck is the only difference..

i have a thing against jeeps...i really like the cherokee and all but i see prices for jeep stuff around here and it blows me away...a tj door on kijiji runs around $400...ud be lucky to get 2 for that price! and its a jeep

id MUCH rather have a more common rig like an explorer with a manual tranny!
same thing as a cherokee with (IMO) better starting axles....

Strength wise. You are trying to backpeddle too hard. The 35 is much weaker than the 44.

Following that logic you can say all solid axles are the same. You only have to change them out.

 

[rockwerks]

so you are saying a TTB Dana 35 is better than a hi pinion 30 for a front axle. I will not argue that a 31 spline 8.8 out of a ford explorer is superior to a Dana 35 but the 35 is but one of the available options in the rear of a Cherokee. You also bring up the cost of a wrangler which is much more expensive than a Cherokee I can buy 2 Cherokees around here in New England for what I can get one Ranger,

A Cherokee is a great option for hauling people over rugged terrain, a ranger is a great option for hauling cargo over rugged terrain, Explorers and Wranglers shouldn't even be brought into the discussion

Why not the wrangler and Cherokee share 95% of the same parts.

 

[Boghog1]

because the only thing a wrangler and Cherokee share is the 4.0 different transmissions (AW4 vs some chrysler crap) front axles (high pinion vs low pinion) rear axles (dana 35 or 44 available in wrangler 8.25, 44 and 35 available in cherokee) unibody vs frame convertible vs hard top, seating capacity

Based on your logic a GT40 is the same as a F150 both have blue ovals

 

[Jason]

because the only thing a wrangler and Cherokee share is the 4.0 different transmissions (AW4 vs some chrysler crap) front axles (high pinion vs low pinion) rear axles (dana 35 or 44 available in wrangler 8.25, 44 and 35 available in cherokee) unibody vs frame convertible vs hard top, seating capacity

Based on your logic a GT40 is the same as a F150 both have blue ovals

For offroading in tight trails they are the same.

 

[TheOne]

well again what are we talking about here? anything can be made to handle whatever u please. a simple u joint change can make the d35 easily handle 35's...and the ttb d 35 is a high pinion so ur HP d30 argument goes out the window...

all my info im pulling right from this site. and no a d35 can easily equal the strength of a 44...again all my info is RIGHT OFF this site that ur currently on

i wasnt trying to start a war here (hence the IMO in brackets in my reply) this is just my opinion but no one seemed to get that from my last reply... granted they are backed up my info tho

 

[Boghog1]

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Dana30.htm

The Dana 30 can be found in both high and low pinion versions. The Dana 30 is actually surprisingly stout for it's size. It can easily handle a 33" tire, with aftermarket shafts its usually pretty safe to run 35s on them.

from your own site the dana 30 has a slightly smaller ring gear and pinion size people are not snapping pinions or ring gears on the 30 they are blowing out u-joints both the 30 and the 35 have the same size u-joints (or can have). both can be built to handle 35" tires

 

[TheOne]

i was under the impression that once u go up higher in size on d30's that a truss or similar is needed because the axle will bend from the large tires...i remember reading about that in a 4x4 mag...

all d35 needs is u joints d30 needs u joints, shafts apparently, AND a truss...

hmm....

 

[Boghog1]

higher in size than what? and the 30 may not even need u-joints because they come with dana 44 sized u-joints after 1995. I ran 33's on mine for 5 years without a truss. if you don't jump it you wont need a truss and the 35 still requires attention as well

TTB Axle beams - A few cases of cracked beams have been reported right at the end of the welds on the backside of the passengerside beam with prolonged hard offroad use. If you use your truck hard (such as rockcrawling), some reinforcement in this area (I.E., boxing up the open backside of the beam) can improve it's durability here. Also, NEVER run with a missing pinch bolt behind the radius arm on the driverside axle beam. Cracking of the beam around the lower radius arm bolt hole can result if you do.

same link as above