Iv replaced the whole cooling system and still over heating HELP

[Dirtman]

Have you tried moving to Canada?

 

[Scuzzy883]

Need pressure. Engine dead 12 hrs. Don't risk a head on a cologne. Thermal shock is bad for them. Garden hose at full tilt through the block and heater core both directions. Do till clear several times.

Take rad out flush upside down and right side up too.

So I flushed my whole system again and put fresh coolant christ it was still super dirty.

I'm still showing hot on the dash gage, but its not as bad or fast, at this point I think its a matter of burping the heater core. Some times I blows hot. Some times ir blows cool. As I went in a test drive today

 

[Scuzzy883]

If you don't get it, write back in and answer some questions;

1. How do you know it's overheating? What are the symptoms? I hope you are not just going by the factory gauge. If you are, you should have other symptoms along with it. Or are you puking coolant? Any other symptoms as to why you think it's overheating?

2. When does it overheat? Only in town and not on the highway? Only on the highway and not in town?

1 had coolent out the tank, not a ton but some. The heater was blowing on and off hot, and yes the factory gage.

2. Was only on the high way but now that I reflushed everything it can overheat on city streets and thats bybfactory gage

 

[franklin2]

You can waste a lot of time and money relying on the factory gauge for information. You need to confirm how hot it really is. What is "normal"?

When filling the engine after you drain it, take one of the heater hoses off at the engine. Don't take it off at the firewall, that is too risky it's too easy to crack the heater core twisting on the hose. Then start filling the radiator. When coolant starts coming out of the fitting at the engine where you took the hose off, stop and put the hose back on. Then keep filling. You will still have some air in the system, but just a little bit, not the huge amount you would have otherwise.

I agree with these engines for some reason being dirty in the cooling system. My 2.9 was very dirty. It would get to the point I would have no heat at all. I would flush the system and flush the heater core, and everything would be ok for a couple of months and then it would do it again. I finally put plain water in it, and ran it a few days and then flushed, put water in it again, ran it a few days and flushed, and did this several times and finally got all the rust and sediment out. The heater worked great after that, but then I started having leaks at the freeze plugs. Finally had to pull the engine and replace the freeze plugs and everything settled down after that.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

just to give you an idea of casting residues, all of this came out of my 2.9 block.... Graph paper is 1/4 inch.

 

[franklin2]

Mine was rust, probably from no maintenance through the years. When I first got it the radiator would not even drain. I had to pull the lower radiator hose, pull the radiator completely out, and take a garden hose and break up all the sediment packed at the bottom of the radiator till the drain was finally open.

 

[Scuzzy883]

just to give you an idea of casting residues, all of this came out of my 2.9 block.... Graph paper is 1/4 inch.

View attachment 47649View attachment 47650View attachment 47651

Damn that's bad mine was a lot of sediment and rust. PO did t do shit for maintenance. My plan was to restore the truck but i need a more family friendly vehicle now. My ranger can wait. Iv owned 5 of then and never had so much trouble this one is my enemy hahaha

 

[Scuzzy883]

You can waste a lot of time and money relying on the factory gauge for information. You need to confirm how hot it really is. What is "normal"?

When filling the engine after you drain it, take one of the heater hoses off at the engine. Don't take it off at the firewall, that is too risky it's too easy to crack the heater core twisting on the hose. Then start filling the radiator. When coolant starts coming out of the fitting at the engine where you took the hose off, stop and put the hose back on. Then keep filling. You will still have some air in the system, but just a little bit, not the huge amount you would have otherwise.

I agree with these engines for some reason being dirty in the cooling system. My 2.9 was very dirty. It would get to the point I would have no heat at all. I would flush the system and flush the heater core, and everything would be ok for a couple of months and then it would do it again. I finally put plain water in it, and ran it a few days and then flushed, put water in it again, ran it a few days and flushed, and did this several times and finally got all the rust and sediment out. The heater worked great after that, but then I started having leaks at the freeze plugs. Finally had to pull the engine and replace the freeze plugs and everything settled down after that.

Do you have a gage set to recommend ? Ill go buy a temp gun today. They ate dirty cheap now.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Um....try bypassing the heater core..

 

[franklin2]

A cheap set at the autoparts store will last a few years and do what you need.

 

[Scuzzy883]

Just to update my problem was resolved. I drained the cooling system and flushed it again. Had a ton of junk in the radiator and more in the block. Heater core was clean. After the flush I refilled through the outside hose of the Heater core to keep air in the system to a minimum. Couldnt burp it completely had to park the truck up on a steep hill to finally get the last burp and now is operating as normal. Thanks for the help guys... On to the next problem