Is there an adjustable fuel pressure regulator that will work on a '94 2.3

[Hamrdown]

I have a '94 2.3 ranger. I recently installed new 19lb injectors that I scored on the cheap. The truck got a big improvement in the low to midrange rpm's but bogs out up top because it's running too rich. Anyways I'd like to run an adjustable fuel pressure regulator so that I can fine tune the air fuel ratio. Does anyone know where I can find one that will work on my set up?

 

[ILLEGALCONCEPTS]

Did you do anything with your MAF? I'm running 19lb injectors w/o issue. I drilled out the sample tube to 15/32, cut the post out and smoothed it all out. I left the battery disconnected while I did this and the truck ran just fine afterwords.

James

 

[Hamrdown]

No, I didn't do anything with the maf besides cleaning it. So are you talking about drilling out the tube were the maf wires are exposed and allows air to flow through them? Then just cut and smooth out the post that runs vertical from the tube to the floor of the maf?if so I can knock that out pretty easy and it wouldn't cost a dime since I already have the tools. Just let me know if I understood you right. If so I'll do that tomorrow after work.

 

[ILLEGALCONCEPTS]

I think you got it. There is a plate that has to be unbolted on the back of the sample tube. It uses a torx security screw and one was filled in with epoxy. I had the bit but used a very small pipe wrench on the filled in one. Unbolt the maf, drill out the sample tube nice and straight (a drill press would be ideal but can be done carefully by hand), cut the post out and smooth it all out. Clean everything SUPER well before putting back together. I had no issues doing this and the trucks been running like this for close to 4 years.

James

 

[Hamrdown]

Thanks! I'll try that tonight and let you know how it goes.

 

[Hamrdown]

Follow up...I took the maf out, removed the sensor & backing plate. I then used a vise and a steady hand drilling out the sample tube. Afterward I ran a bristle brush made for a gun cleaning kit through to remove any partially loose shavings and deburr it. Then I used a maf cleaner and completely cleaned it. I only wanted to do a step at a time because I've dealt with modifying mafs in other cars and I know how finiky they can be. I ran the truck w/ only this done and left the backing plate off to see how it would react. It drove like crap. It did what I figured, the air is only supposed to run across the sensors in the maf in only one direction. With out the plate it was allowing air to back across at idle. So I put the plate back on and headed back out...perfect! No more bog. I was still having a rough idle, sounded and acted like I had a large duration cam and it couldn't find it's idle. But not near as bad of an idle as with the plate off. I found that problem to be the idle air control valve. I took it out and cleaned it w/ tb cleaner & allowed it to sit for an hour to be sure it was completely dried all while the battery was disconnected mind you. After it was completely dried I sprayed wd-40 into the plunger area & let it soak a bit. Then I drained the excess wd-40 out and put the IACV back on. Then I reconnected the battery. It only took a couple seconds and it found it's idle. Smooth as a purring kitten. Now everything is running perfect and those injectors are awesome, I've got way more acceleration than I did before and now no hesitation or bogging. Thanks for all your help! That did the trick to fix my bogging out issue.

 

[The Bandit]

Follow up...I took the maf out, removed the sensor & backing plate. I then used a vise and a steady hand drilling out the sample tube. Afterward I ran a bristle brush made for a gun cleaning kit through to remove any partially loose shavings and deburr it. Then I used a maf cleaner and completely cleaned it. I only wanted to do a step at a time because I've dealt with modifying mafs in other cars and I know how finiky they can be. I ran the truck w/ only this done and left the backing plate off to see how it would react. It drove like crap. It did what I figured, the air is only supposed to run across the sensors in the maf in only one direction. With out the plate it was allowing air to back across at idle. So I put the plate back on and headed back out...perfect! No more bog. I was still having a rough idle, sounded and acted like I had a large duration cam and it couldn't find it's idle. But not near as bad of an idle as with the plate off. I found that problem to be the idle air control valve. I took it out and cleaned it w/ tb cleaner & allowed it to sit for an hour to be sure it was completely dried all while the battery was disconnected mind you. After it was completely dried I sprayed wd-40 into the plunger area & let it soak a bit. Then I drained the excess wd-40 out and put the IACV back on. Then I reconnected the battery. It only took a couple seconds and it found it's idle. Smooth as a purring kitten. Now everything is running perfect and those injectors are awesome, I've got way more acceleration than I did before and now no hesitation or bogging. Thanks for all your help! That did the trick to fix my bogging out issue.

I love posts like this.

 

[ILLEGALCONCEPTS]

I'm glad it worked out for you. I still would be tempted to remove that plate and post. I was nervous about doing it but figured I might as well try it. Of course I do like the rule of: If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

James

 

[The Bandit]

I'm going to clean my MAF today. Looked at it, and it still has a big gob of epoxy over one of the screws-so I know its never been cleaned or changed.