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Is normal for a distrubutor to arc?


aeidian

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2010
Messages
127
Vehicle Year
1989
Transmission
Manual
Is it normal for a distrubutor to arc?

I know it seems like a stupid question, but I want to know if it means the cap is cracked. I was having starting and hesitation issues several months ago and come to find out that the AC line that runs across the back of the engine was touching the distributor cap and I could see it arcing. It was just dumb luck that I was working in fading light and caught it. I pulled the line up and away and seemed fine after. Its always had slight hesitation when accelerating but lately its gotten worse and it doesn't always start on the first try. I went to retime it just now and I was watching the timing light and reached for the distributor to turn it and I touched the wires instead of the module part to turn it and felt my heart stop. The shock shot straight up my arm and across my chest. I was wearing nirtle gloves too. Anyway, I got the timing set but that makes me wonder if its cracked. That's all plastic and rubber and sealed, there shouldn't be any current jumping like that right?
 
Last edited:
It shouldn't be arcing. Time to tune up. Meaning hard parts.

Richard
 
I replaced the cap/rotor/plugs/wires and set the timing. That first solid line on the pulley is 10 right? I set the timing to it and it runs like shit. Yes, I pulled the spout. It does jump a little bit, maybe an 1/8th an inch or less when set, I'm assuming that's slack in the chain or something. I've read on other posts I should set it to 12 , that would be just a bit past the 10 right?

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2
 
Check the timing chain with the dizzy cap of put a wrench on the crank bolt and turn ity clockwise watch the rotor then turn it counter clockwise until the rotor turns you should only get a couple of degrees on the crank before the rotor turns. If there is slop in the chain do not try and compensate with timing just replace the timing set. Chain and sprockets.
 
I came home drunk from the weekly bowling night and figured that 10 at night was as good a time as any to take another look. I got under the truck and saw the first solid line was TC, and the first number mark was 12, then 20. Figuring 8 degrees between marks, 10 should be the next mark to the 12. I was setting it at TC, not 10. No wonder it ran like shit. I marked 10 with chalk and then retimed it. Seemed to run better but still hesitated and lacked power. I turned the distributor to 12 (and it wouldn't turn any farther because the ignition module was hitting the valve cover) and it made a huge difference. Still a faint hesitation but nothing like before. It has alot more power. I can't help but thinking turning it just a few more degrees would even it out, but I can't turn it anymore because it's hitting.
 
Too much timing can cause pinging, or dentonation. Also it will make your motor run hotter. So just be weary
 
He probably is weary after a long night of bowling, drinking, and wrenching. Being wary would be a good idea also, just in case.
 
It ticks on the drivers side near the rear of the motor but I didn't hear any pinging.

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2
 
He probably is weary after a long night of bowling, drinking, and wrenching. Being wary would be a good idea also, just in case.

Im an engineer not an english major, I still have to sound out words :P

It ticks on the drivers side near the rear of the motor but I didn't hear any pinging.

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

Sounds like my ticking noise thought it was a lifter or valve... I believe its an injector
 
Truck still runs like utter shit when its first started until it reaches normal operating temperature. Never starts on the first try anymore and dies right after if it does. Idles fine but as soon as I let the clutch out it bucks and shudders so bad it jerks the stick like the transmission is gonna rip loose. If I rev it up higher than I should and let the clutch out its fine and as soon as it gets up around 1500/2k rpms its OK. Once it warms up it doesn't do it anymore but that first go feels like the truck wants to rip itself apart.

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2
 
the "arcing" could be a poor engine ground, electricity takes the least path of resistance, that could have some effect on performance. 14 BTDC is usually OK if it doesn't ping. If it's hitting, then dist would need pulled and re-clocked. 10 BTDC is factory though.
 

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