ignition wiring help after a4ld to m5od

[samx227]

did and a4ld to m5od swap a year or so ago and have just been starting it by wiring the two hot wires from the old park reverse neutral safety switch to a button. well that ended up not working the other day for some odd reason. i was wondering if anyone can lead me in the right direction to making my truck start by the ignition/key again, lol
i no longer have the automatic trans harness in the truck anymore, so if i need to get one from pick n pull or something i can do so!
ive been looking at some ignition wiring diagrams but because of the situation from the swap i am not sure what to do...

 

[RonD]

Auto or Manual both use the same wiring for starter from key(ignition) switch.
Auto has a Neutral safety switch on the trans, manual has a clutch switch, which you can use or by-pass, your choice.

Wire from ignition switch is Pink, this wire has 12volts only when key is in the START position
You would find this wire and connect it to the "S" post on the starter relay, that is the smaller post.
If you want to use the Clutch switch then run the pink wire to the switch and then out to "S" post, so the 12volts will only pass when clutch pedal is in all the way.

Diagram here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/EDiagrams/files/Diagram_StartingSystem1990.JPG

You do not say which engine you have??
On some there is also a splice for TFI system.

 

[samx227]

Thanks RonD! Exactly the info I was looking for. Sorry, it's a 4.0 v6. Thanks!!

 

[RonD]

1990 4.0l uses the EDIS system so no connection to "starter" wiring.

 

[samx227]

Thanks again, can you clarify what the EDIS means?

 

[samx227]

Okay googled that and found out what it is. So what does this mean for my situation ?

 

[RonD]

Older engines with distributors and a single coil had a START wire for the coil power.
In a single coil system the coil will last longer if it runs on 7-8volts rather than 13-14volts(alternator voltage).

So the coil voltage when key is in RUN position is passed thru a resistor to lower the voltage which keeps coil cooler, but when starting a cold engine it is better to have a hotter spark so the starter solenoid/relay wire, "S" terminal, was often spliced to the coil.
This gives the coil 12volts(actually 10-11v), but only when starter motor is cranking, then the 7-8volts takes over after you let off the key, engine is started.

Common issue with this system was engine would crank and start but then die as soon as you let off the key, problem was the "ballast" resistor was bad or its wire, so coil only has voltage when cranking.
Other side of that is engine won't start when cranking but will back fire when you let off the key or you can push start the engine, i.e. pop the clutch while rolling.
In this situation the START wire to coil is disconnected or bad, when you let off the key you get a few sparks for the back fire because 7-8volts are now at the coil.
Push start works because 7-8volts are at the coil.

The EDIS system uses 3 separate coils in the one coil pack, coils don't overheat since they share the spark load, so coil gets full voltage anytime key is on or in START position, so no connection to starter motor system is required.

 

[samx227]

Okay thanks for that lesson. I appreciate it a lot. Always good to learn!
Well where does that put me for getting my truck to start by the key again? Lol just need to know what wires need to go where. I'm horrible at reading wire diagrams otherwise I'd have it together already lol.

 

[RonD]

Wire from ignition switch is Pink, this wire has 12volts only when key is in the START position

Find the pink wire coming out of ignition switch under the steering column, cut it and splice it your own wire that you run thru the firewall to the "S" post on the starter relay.

Or trace the Pink wire thru the firewall to the plug for the old automatic wiring and splice it there.

Ignition switch---(pink)------------------------"S" starter relay

 

[samx227]

Thanks RonD you're always a big help I'll get on it tonight

 

[samx227]

so i cant find the "pink" wire coming from the ign switch, only wire that seems to come out of anywhere near the ign is a black/pink wire coming from the tumbler...i found a pink wire going into the plug where the auto trans harness used to plug into and that has no power to it at all even when i have my buddy turn the ign all the way forward to start..

 

[RonD]

This "pink" wire would come from ignition switch, not the key switch
Ignition switch is under the steering
The key switch just pushes a bar that slides contacts in ignition switch.

Just rechecked 1990 Ranger wiring diagram
Shows Pink wire from ignition switch to NSS switch on Automatic trans, and a Red/Light Blue wire from NSS to Starter Relay

Saw one reference to White/Black wire on this circuit to Manual Trans

 

[Elutheros]

Here is how I did it on my 87 BII.
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126417