how to remove engine mount-to-frame bolt?

[auto117584]

95 B2300, ready to jack up transmission and remove engine to transmission bolts, but want to remove engine mount-to-frame bolt. There's a one-piece washer/nut in the top center of the solid rubber mount. There's also one on the bottom of the mount. when I turn the top nut, the bolt turns with it. Does that mean I need a new engine mount?

Or do I need to have a helper put a wrench on the nut under the mount? Are the two studs or bolts really one that goes through everything?

Or is the book mistaken - Haynes. Do I need to take the mount brackets off??? Please say no.

 

[Bryan22]

that stud shouldnt turn when you're trying to remove the nut. see if the motor mount is broken.

 

[agrove83]

to get at the nut on the bottom side, you do have to remove the bracket unfortunately. i just did motor mounts on my 91

 

[trail B2]

Motor Mounts

What I would do if that was mine is try to get an extension on the top nut and put an air gun on it if you have one it might pop right off.

 

[auto117584]

that stud shouldnt turn when you're trying to remove the nut. see if the motor mount is broken.

uh, genius here got his sign wrong. the little scratch i put on the stud stayed in the same place when I turned the nut, so that means it is NOT rotating with the nut. for some reason, when i saw the scratch hadn't moved, i had thought it was SUPPOSED to move. hence my post, hey what happens if the bolt turns with the nut? sorry bout that.

so when i'm takin the engine out, is that all i need to do with the mounts? 'cause I've got both those nuts off now. they were on snug. thought i'd block up the tranny (2x6's and shims between it and the trans crossmember), snug the chain from hoist to engine sling, remove all the pan and engine to transmission bolts, and lift the sucker out! do i have to remove the engine mount brackets for any reason, like to put it back in???

 

[trail B2]

Pull Engine

If you want to remove them both together remove the transmission cross brace,shift linkage ect.Pick it up in the front and come out that way works good on mine but it has A 2'' body lift. If that looks to tight I would drop the tranny cross brace take about 2' worth of extensions with A wobbly and A socket and get the transmission unbolted and pulled out first the motor comes out a lot easier then.For me it saves time in the long run to pull these things out carefully rather than fix more shit later . I would have to start to pull it out and see there is no other way than to pull the pan off you will be covered in oil and angry by the time thats taken off still under the car.

 

[Bryan22]

what are you trying to do here? Yes those 2 nuts is all you need to remove as far as motor mounts go to remove the engine. I changed the motor mounts while i had the engine out too, make life alot easier. I didnt block up the trans at all last time i took the engine out, just unbolted it from the motor, unhooked all electrical and fuel lines and exhaust and pulled that sucker outta there.

 

[auto117584]

what are you trying to do here? Yes those 2 nuts is all you need to remove as far as motor mounts go to remove the engine. I changed the motor mounts while i had the engine out too, make life alot easier. I didnt block up the trans at all last time i took the engine out, just unbolted it from the motor, unhooked all electrical and fuel lines and exhaust and pulled that sucker outta there.

I'm putting in another engine. I've got everything on both sides off the engine. My Haynes book says to block up the tranny with a jack and wood blocks, undo the mount bolts and transmission bolts, and pull the engine out of the truck gently.

These mounts are 15 years old. I plan to keep the truck for a long time. Do the mounts wear out? I don't know what to look for. Is it a good idea to replace them while the engine is out? How does that make life easier?

 

[Bryan22]

yes, it's a good idea, they are a royal pain in the ass to change with the motor in the truck. if they are original just change them. you can block the tranny if you want, but when you go to put it back in you're gonna have to muscle it around by hand to line it up with the motor. another tip, dont put oil in the motor until it's installed, the filter is in the way when you're putting it back together, so just wait till the motor is in the truck to put oil and a filter on. also, if you haven't allready done it, put a new timing belt on the motor you're going to be putting in the truck.

 

[auto117584]

yes, it's a good idea, they are a royal pain in the ass to change with the motor in the truck. if they are original just change them. you can block the tranny if you want, but when you go to put it back in you're gonna have to muscle it around by hand to line it up with the motor. another tip, dont put oil in the motor until it's installed, the filter is in the way when you're putting it back together, so just wait till the motor is in the truck to put oil and a filter on. also, if you haven't allready done it, put a new timing belt on the motor you're going to be putting in the truck.

I think blocking the tranny just prevents it from drooping, since it's not attached to that crossmember below it. There's about a 3" space in there. I thought I would fill the space with wood, then it should accept the new engine without moving it around much.

Good tip about the filter and oil. I'll remove them from the new engine. I'll change the timing belt, too. I had been planning to do that, already have the belt.

 

[Bryan22]

cool, it's alot easier with an extra hand. good luck.