how to bleed front brakes, two new calipers

[jgarc028]

88 Ranger, 2WD, 2.3L

I have replaced both front calipers, both are currently hooked up to the brake line, attached to the rotor with new brake pads. I haven't turned on the engine or pressed the brakes at all.how do I bleed the system when it's two new calipers at once?

part of me says I should turn on the engine and press the brakes to put fluid in the two calipers, then start with one caliper and open the nipple to bleed air out of it, close it off when it's just brake fluid coming out and do the same for the next one. of course constantly topping off the fluid level so it doesn't go dry.

or should I have both nipples open at the same time? a "mechanic" relative also said I need to disconnect one brake line and plug it, and bleed the system on the other caliper, then hook up the next caliper and bleed it.

which is the correct way or easiest way? thanks in advance

 

[pjtoledo]

I never disconnected/sealed off anything.
yes you can pump fluid down to the calipers. or you can open the pass bleeder to let gravity do it's thing, then the driver side.
some use vacuum to expedite the process.
once fluid comes out close them and start normal push release procedure, again pass first.

probably a good idea to do the rears, do them first

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

So…

Proper brake bleed procedure is to start with the farthest from the master cylinder. Lots of people advocate using two people to bleed or a vacuum or power bleeder. I don’t always have those options, so I usually gravity bleed. No need to start the engine.

So start with the passenger side caliper. Pull the bleeder screw after topping off the master cylinder. If it doesn’t start oozing after a few minutes I usually lightly poke the brake pedal a couple times to get things moving. Once the fluid starts coming out of the bleeder screw area, I thread the screw back in and wait until the bubbles stop coming out. Tighten the bleeder and move to the drivers side and repeat. Make sure you keep adding to the master cylinder and don’t run the master cylinder dry or you will have to start over.

Also, there is a little float in the master cylinder reservoir, make sure it’s not stuck on the bottom or you won’t be able to bleed the system.

Once it’s fully bled, I pump up the brakes then crack the bleeders starting with the passenger side to make sure there’s no more air bubbles. This also pushes the pads in contact with the rotors so that you stop when you drive it, otherwise your first push or two of the brakes will result in a feeling of no brakes, lol.

 

[19Walt93]

Make sure to keep brake fluid off the paint or it will peel off the metal.
Step one is topping up the brake fluid.
Then open the right bleeder about 1/4-1/2 a turn and slowly pump the brake pedal 3-4 times, close the bleeder and refill the fluid. Reopen the bleeder and do a couple more slow pumps. Look at the bleeder to be sure fluid is slowly dripping out, after 20-30 seconds if there are no air bubbles close the bleeder, refill the fluid and move to the other side.
If an assistant is available you can open a bleeder,say "down" loud enough for them to hear you.They would then slowly depress the pedal and say "down". Close the bleeder and say "up", they'd slowly let the pedal up and say "up" once it's at the top. By staying at the bleeder you'll see when the fluid is free of bubbles and you might save a little fluid.
Either way, refill the fluid often. If you run the master cylinder dry it'll take a while to get all the air out.