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Help with a "built" long block project for my '88 BII.


Peter Griffin

Well-Known Member
Truck of Month
Joined
Jan 30, 2023
Messages
261
City
Quahog
Vehicle Year
1988
Engine
2.9 V6
Transmission
Automatic
If you want to skip the boring intro and get to the meat and potatoes, scroll down to the Readers Digest version below!

For those unfamiliar with my project '88 Bronco II, my build thread is HERE.

LONG story short is the engine is literally the only relatively untouched piece of the project; I unfortunately ended up having to do a complete transmission and transfer case rebuild when they went south in a big way.

I'm not amenable to a 3.0 swap because of the required dash upgrade (which would result in the work/money I spent upgrading my current one being for naught) and the wiring harness nightmare. I wouldn't do a junkyard motor either so that obviously dramatically increases the cost. I've spent a TON of money getting it to where it is now, with 100s of hours of my own labor on top of it; doing a project of that magnitude (which would require mechanically assistance, and consequently, more money!) with an used motor is a non-starter, no pun intended.

Likewise a V8 swap isn't on the table either; deleting the A/C when daytime temps are nearly 120 here in the summer is likewise a non-starter!

The current 2.9 is the original from what I can tell, so it's nearly 37 years old and regularly maintained or not (and I'm leaning towards not, being the eternal pessimist I am...) it's overdue for rebuild. Although it compression tests well with all 6 cylinders within a few PSI of each other and at 90%+ of factory spec, it consumes a modest amount of oil and has some blow by as witness by exhaust smoke, in addition to the coolant/cooling system issues I won't get into extraneous detail with here.

I'm extremely happy of how it sits with it's body and suspension lift, 31-inch tires and the additional heft of the front/rear zombie bumpers I installed. It will do 70+ on the interstate and you can drive it with a finger, although the gas mileage (which I do NOT care about, but bears mentioning) is barely into the double digits, and understandably so.

I won't go through the trouble of dynoing it, but I'd bet if it broke triple-digits at the wheel I'd be surprised. I know a remanned long-block would restore it back to its original "power" level, which is anemic at best but I've always felt if it had another legit 25-30 additional lb-ft of torque and HP it'd be near perfect.

Having read up on @PetroleumJunkie412 build and other related 2.9 posts I'm aware through his exhaustive research that the 2.9 is capable of better than stock power output with the adage that speed/power costs money, how fast do you want to go? With that being said, I'm unable to do the work myself as I lack the requisite tools and quite frankly, knowledge, not to mention being physically limited due to injuries.

Readers Digest Version!:

With the assistance of a local mechanic who would do the work, what/who do you recommend for a long block capable of better than stock (which was 140 crank HP IIRC...?) performance? My mechanic can put it all together and I was thinking that a heads/cam upgrade coupled with the older/larger throttle body would help, and previously recall higher compression pistons being an option too and @gaz previously gave me a suggestion for a built short block...so better heads along with a cam and call it a day? :ROFLMAO:

Thanks in advance for the help and suggestions, I very much appreciate it!
 
@Peter Griffin
If fuel economy or maximum efficiency are not your goal, I recommend using as many stock parts in the best configuration as possible with the least amount of machining and aftermarket:

• if your original heads aren't damaged, use them
• performance valve job
• 2.8l pistons, smallest bore possible
• 86-87 throttle body
• K&N drop in filter
• 15" electric fan puller
• 15" electric fan pusher (for A/C)
• single 2¼" stainless steel exhaust
• Explorer dual core radiator
• remote engine oil filter with cooler
• all synthetic fluids after engine break in

The electric puller fan provides a significant reduction on the engines load, the pusher fan engages when the A/C is on. The 2.8l pistons deliver a point of compression (and approximate 6% increase in power, +9hp) which will not require premium fuel (though I would use it regardless).

If the correction for automatically transmission power loss is -25%, the the restored 140 HP at the crank becomes 149 × 25% = 37.25
149 - 37.25 = 111.75, approximately 9 hp higher than stock at the wheels.

This setup will benefit significantly from a high output coil and multi spark ignition but without them, cruising at 90 mph should be no trouble and I expect at least 24 mpg @62.5 if your tire size is complimentary to your Rangers gearing.
 
@Peter Griffin
If fuel economy or maximum efficiency are not your goal, I recommend using as many stock parts in the best configuration as possible with the least amount of machining and aftermarket:

• if your original heads aren't damaged, use them
• performance valve job
• 2.8l pistons, smallest bore possible
• 86-87 throttle body
• K&N drop in filter
• 15" electric fan puller
• 15" electric fan pusher (for A/C)
• single 2¼" stainless steel exhaust
• Explorer dual core radiator
• remote engine oil filter with cooler
• all synthetic fluids after engine break in

The electric puller fan provides a significant reduction on the engines load, the pusher fan engages when the A/C is on. The 2.8l pistons deliver a point of compression (and approximate 6% increase in power, +9hp) which will not require premium fuel (though I would use it regardless).

If the correction for automatically transmission power loss is -25%, the the restored 140 HP at the crank becomes 149 × 25% = 37.25
149 - 37.25 = 111.75, approximately 9 hp higher than stock at the wheels.

This setup will benefit significantly from a high output coil and multi spark ignition but without them, cruising at 90 mph should be no trouble and I expect at least 24 mpg @62.5 if your tire size is complimentary to your Rangers gearing.
I already have the e-fan puller/pusher combo (Flex A Lite puller and a MB AMG pusher on a Dakota Digital fan controller with the pusher coming on with the A/C) and it definitely freed up a "lot" of "power". Likewise I have the K&N drop-in filter.

I would lean towards buying new heads and getting the performance valve job, I thought that someone/vendor was offering them as an option. That got me thinking about a cam to take advantage of the freer breathing.

As far as the exhaust goes, I thought there were short-tube headers from the 3.0 that fit the 2.9...? That'd be nice compliment to the 2.25-inch exhaust.

Not sure to look for the ignition components, that one is news to me. I did to do cap/rotor/coil/wires/plugs already, but I'm open to upgrading if it's worth it.

The more I look into it to answer my own questions...the more questions I have!
 
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Volvo electric power steering pump will help things too.

Flow porting on the intakes and heads. Throttle body too, definitely get a throttle body off the 86/87 2.9 from a B2 or Ranger with the EGR valve.

If you really want to go whole hog, do a MAF conversion and then go to an aftermarket computer like the Megasquirt. You could probably also do a turbo or supercharger pretty easily at that point, run a modest amount of boost.
 
@Peter Griffin
I have used the following multi-spark ignitions with the Ford 2.9l's with equal success and the stock PCM; the primary advantage of the multi-spark ignition is multiple sparks up to 3,000 RPM, secondary is no loss of spark power through engine redline:
1) Accel Digital 300+
2) MSD 6AL
3) Jacobs Powerpack

Each has supported the use of high power coils with improved fuel economy, even with completely stock, well tuned engines.

Summit Racing sells a system very much like the Accell with their branding. The other company known to work well is Crane's.
 
Volvo electric power steering pump will help things too.

Flow porting on the intakes and heads. Throttle body too, definitely get a throttle body off the 86/87 2.9 from a B2 or Ranger with the EGR valve.

If you really want to go whole hog, do a MAF conversion and then go to an aftermarket computer like the Megasquirt. You could probably also do a turbo or supercharger pretty easily at that point, run a modest amount of boost.
I'll have to look into the Volvo electric steering pump deal, I hadn't heard of that before...:unsure:

Flow porting/matching the intake, heads and throttle body (off an '86/'87) and a torquey cam would be great with a stout/new short block with a bit more compression but I'm not gonna get into the expense of a MAF conversion and FI...I already have a not so small fortune in it my wife would loss her sense of humor at that point! :ROFLMAO:

Merry Christmas y'all!
 
I'll have to look into the Volvo electric steering pump deal, I hadn't heard of that before...:unsure:

Flow porting/matching the intake, heads and throttle body (off an '86/'87) and a torquey cam would be great with a stout/new short block with a bit more compression but I'm not gonna get into the expense of a MAF conversion and FI...I already have a not so small fortune in it my wife would loss her sense of humor at that point! :ROFLMAO:

Merry Christmas y'all!
I was trying to find it, thought there was one around here. Some Volvo and Mazda vehicles had an electric power steering pump, an actual hydraulic pump. There’s a couple electric steering upgrades listed in the tech pages, but you have to modify your steering column to make those work plus go to a manual steering box. The Volvo/Mazda pump is a simpler modification.

Also Merry Christmas back!
 
Petroleumjunkie is the one i know that did the EPS conversion. I think there is a whole thread around here about it somewhere.

I didnt read your other thread but have you thought about regearing?
 
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Petroleumjunkie is the one i know that did the EPS conversion. I think there is a whole thread around here about it somewhere.

I didnt read your other thread but have you thought about regearing?
Yeah, I was trying to find that thread and came up empty. I don’t remember some of the specifics, but I have two of the pumps floating around here because I had intended on doing the swaps in at least my Choptop and F-150. It may happen to other vehicles and/or go to the electric conversion to the column. I’m also considering hydro boost brakes for some of my toys so I’m probably going to be putting up a thread or two soon.
 
Petroleumjunkie is the one i know that did the EPS conversion. I think there is a whole thread around here about it somewhere.

I didn't read your other thread but have you thought about re-gearing?
I definitely need to refresh the short block with the blow-by/oil burning I'm getting, however mild it may be.

I don't recall the exact RPMs at the moment, but with the current 31-inch KO2s it seems to be in the sweet spot on the highway (flat) between 65-70. It will go faster but it's definitely not happy with it and gets even more horrific mileage in the process.

I would not completely write off re-gearing but I need to do the engine refresh first. With a freshened short block/rotating assemble with slighter higher compression, along with the aforementioned port matched heads/intake/(larger) throttle body, a torquey cam, upgraded ignition and custom exhaust, I'd expect a near night and day difference from where it's at now.

I was amazed how much "power" was freed up just by going the e-fan route and eliminating that parasitic drain, I can see the results of what I'm planning resulting in a 35-40+ increase in RWHP and torque, if not more. Even though the compression test went well it's clearly producing less than factory rated output (140 HP). That level of power increase on a vehicle at this weight (3200 +/- IIRC) would be dramatic. There's obviously the issue of making it more reliable in the process, which, with the amount of money I've spent up to now, makes it a good decision; a rebuild with a little tweaking along the way, while avoiding any over the top custom craziness/complication of a stand alone, FI, etc. makes the most sense to me.
 
I definitely need to refresh the short block with the blow-by/oil burning I'm getting, however mild it may be.

I don't recall the exact RPMs at the moment, but with the current 31-inch KO2s it seems to be in the sweet spot on the highway (flat) between 65-70. It will go faster but it's definitely not happy with it and gets even more horrific mileage in the process.

I would not completely write off re-gearing but I need to do the engine refresh first. With a freshened short block/rotating assemble with slighter higher compression, along with the aforementioned port matched heads/intake/(larger) throttle body, a torquey cam, upgraded ignition and custom exhaust, I'd expect a near night and day difference from where it's at now.

I was amazed how much "power" was freed up just by going the e-fan route and eliminating that parasitic drain, I can see the results of what I'm planning resulting in a 35-40+ increase in RWHP and torque, if not more. Even though the compression test went well it's clearly producing less than factory rated output (140 HP). That level of power increase on a vehicle at this weight (3200 +/- IIRC) would be dramatic. There's obviously the issue of making it more reliable in the process, which, with the amount of money I've spent up to now, makes it a good decision; a rebuild with a little tweaking along the way, while avoiding any over the top custom craziness/complication of a stand alone, FI, etc. makes the most sense to me.
No i wasnt trying to steer you away from your original plan, a rebuild cant hurt.

I was just saying that on the ass dyno gears give the best bang for your buck if youre looking for more giddy up. Athough it may hurt highway performance a bit. The 2.9 has a pretty wide powerband though.

I know my B2 has 3.45 gears and if i ever build it 4.10's are my first drivetrain mod. The little ive gotten to drive it it feels pretty spunky (nothing like my ranger though) but the typical 2.9 "falls on its face in 4th" is much more apparent then with my ranger.

1st-3rd is great though. But if i went up to a 31 (or 33) from the current 235's i think it would be helpful
 
No i wasn't trying to steer you away from your original plan, a rebuild cant hurt.

I was just saying that on the ass dyno gears give the best bang for your buck if you're looking for more giddy up. Although it may hurt highway performance a bit. The 2.9 has a pretty wide powerband though.

I know my B2 has 3.45 gears and if i ever build it 4.10's are my first drivetrain mod. The little i've gotten to drive it it feels pretty spunky (nothing like my ranger though) but the typical 2.9 "falls on its face in 4th" is much more apparent then with my ranger.

1st-3rd is great though. But if i went up to a 31 (or 33) from the current 235's i think it would be helpful
I'm a HUGE fan of re-gearing myself, believe me! I went from 2.73s to 3.73s in my '94 Trans-Am and it made a HUGE difference. That being said, it was my understanding from my previous research that I already had 4.10s in mine based on decoding the diff markings...or whatever you guys told me to do at the time with either that or the door sticker! :ROFLMAO:
 
I'm a HUGE fan of re-gearing myself, believe me! I went from 2.73s to 3.73s in my '94 Trans-Am and it made a HUGE difference. That being said, it was my understanding from my previous research that I already had 4.10s in mine based on decoding the diff markings...or whatever you guys told me to do at the time with either that or the door sticker! :ROFLMAO:
Well if you got 4.10's any easy roll in roll out swap is out of the question lol
 
@Peter Griffin
It was my initial observation that you were NOT going for max efficiency but if you are considering a flow bench port polished set of heads/intakes...then I recommend the following:

1) have 0.035" milled from the heads with performance valve job; good for an extra point of compression (+9hp)
2) flow bench port/polished heads to intakes (+20hp)
3) Ford 2.8l flat top pistons (+9hp)
4) custom reground cam (+20hp)
5) quality headers with 2.5" single mandrell bent exhaust (+20hp)
6) 86-87 T/B (+2 to 3hp)
7) delete crankshaft driven fan/clutch plus 15' electric fan
8) remote oil filter with thermal valve to oil cooler
9) 2 heat ranges down plugs
10) Explorer dual core Automatic radiator
11) K&N drop in air filter
12) all synthetic fluids
HOLY GRAIL MOVE($)
13) complete bottom end balance; plus 10% overall efficiency
14) set base timing advance to point of maximum vacuum.
15) multi spark ignition
16) high output coil
17) 8mm or larger silicon suppression plug wires
***approximately 242HP @ the crank, -25% for automatic or - 15% for a manual at the wheel***

THis set up used in a Ranger or Bronco II for work or daily driver, it's how Ford should have sold them.
.
 
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