help on spraying one spot, not whole truck

[funkingonutz]

ive recently finished some body work on my ranger and now its come all the way down to putting the color on, there are two spots that need it, above fuel door, and under the rear driver side window, they are not big areas (its a ext. cab)
and i was told not to tape off the area because you will get lines...but what about over spray??? if i dont tape it off then there will be overspray on the parts that did'nt need the paint and clearcoat.
How do i go about doing this??
(im using rattle cans by the way because the areas aren't big)

 

[gotmudd]

i worked as a helper in a body shop years ago and it seems to me that the only time i seen them mask off anything was when they were going to change color scheme. if you can match the color with rattle can you are beter off just spraying the area and using #1200 wet/dry between coats after each coat dries and when you are satisfied that you have enough coats, usually 4-5, then you can apply the clear coat and go over that with #1600 or finer then buff it until it shines. FWIW, even if you 'overspray' onto the clearcoat it shouldn't matter, if your truck is one color. clearcoat is just that, CLEAR. if you overspray you will be the only one to know, and if you use the appropriate sanding medium to blend the areas together before applying the clear, neither will you. all the clearcoat does is gives one, or however many coats you have, layer of protection before you damage paint, like if your dog jumps on the door.

 

[funkingonutz]

thanks man

 

[wvcat]

Typically I will tape off the whole panel not the spot. That way the overspray doesn't get on everything. It will be hard to match exactly with a spray can. I would sand the clear with 1000 or finer paper all the way around before I started. When you do your 1st coat just cover the primer and with each additional coat go just alittle further out. Its not really necessary to sand between coats. When you clear make sure you cover all the new paint with 2-3 coats. When finished wet sand with 1500-2000 and buff.

 

[gotmudd]

the purpose of sanding between coats is to promote better adhesion of each succesive coat of paint

 

[rickcdewitt]

which is not needed if you put on the next coat soon enough to have a chemical bond.you let it "flash" then hit it with the next coat.

be prepared for crap though.rattle can will look like ass and even at a shop paint matching and blending can be hard

 

[gotmudd]

which is not needed if you put on the next coat soon enough to have a chemical bond.you let it "flash" then hit it with the next coat.

be prepared for crap though.rattle can will look like ass and even at a shop paint matching and blending can be hard

if this guy was a professional painter i would have to agree, but he's not, so that is why he's asking. from all the paint shops i talked to when i rattle canned the front clip on my truck they advised me to let each coat dry minimum one hour lightly scuff the surface to knock off the glaze and re-shoot. did that six years ago and it still looks ok except in a few spots where i went under low hanging branches.

 

[rickcdewitt]

that depends on the temp and type of paint.also how heavy your coats are.a chemical bond is still stronger no matter the paint,the reason for sanding would be to knock down overspray and dirt-high spots.

 

[Forcus]

You can get good results with spray cans. Can't speak to longevity... I touched up the bottom of the door on my 01 Ram the other day, you cannot tell where I painted and that was from a Duplicolor spray can. But the paint is silver and not faded....

 

[sparkdic]

The clearcoat does give u a protective layer as well as seals in the paint. To get a nice cheap finsh out of ur repair I would recommend using the dulipicolor rattle can and the duplicolor paint shop clear. Mask off nything u do not want sprayed, yes overspray from clear is clear but with cause a haze/dull appearence if not completely coated.
Start coating just the primered area as WVCAT suggested and move out further which each coat untill u can no longer see the edge of the primer, this is called blending. With a rattle can give it 10 ten min flash time between coats. The duplicolor paint shop clear has to be sprayed with a gun ( u can get a cheap one from Harbor Frieght and they work well) and a small compressor. U will be best off to clear the entire panel with at least 2-3 coats. Read the can for their recommendations on flash and dry times, then wetsand with 1500g to take runs, dirt and major orange peel off then sand with 2000-2500g, this will leave less scratches and make buffing much easier.
Make sure to use wax and grease remover every where to be painted well before u begin spraying. This is the best way i can explain on here to get close to a "Paint Shop Repair".
By the way, I am a professional body man of 13 yrs... any questions u may have feel free to ask

 

[TayCo 7s]

hey dude just paint the whole bedside and the whole extended cab side not the door just the extended cab side tape off where the water seems are on the roof and tape up the door... i dont know how clear that sounds...