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Hello all! Newbie from Ohio!


Smack99

New Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2022
Messages
4
City
Ohio
Vehicle Year
2009
Transmission
Automatic
Hello, I'm in dire need of a complete bed for my 2009 Ford Ranger XLT Super Cab 4X4. I bought my truck at an Auto Depot Lot. After looking at probably 200 Rangers online, I thought I found my trophy. Long story short, I got taken! Paid more for it than I should've, but it looked great inside and out. I ended up putting a new rear axle and 4-wheel drive gears in it. Along with numerous other issues that cost me thousands more! I thought I had everything fixed on it, until I went to put the tonneau cover on that I bought it. Found out the spray on bedliner that looked so nice, was hiding the rusty truck bed, that is completely shot now! So, I'm in dire need of a complete 6 ft. truck bed replacement. I'm looking for one in decent shape with little to no rust. Especially underneath! If anyone can help me out with finding a nice one, I sure would appreciate it! Here's a few pics of my truck. It's hard to believe the bed is rusted out by the way it looks! Thanks all!
 

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try car-part.com
good luck finding a new bed.

Bryan Ohio?
 
At least short beds are more plentiful than longbeds. Might have to go south to get a good one, seems like from mansfield-north the rust is really bad. Its plenty bad in my area and im a bit south of there. Welcome to t.r.s.
 
It's pretty common on the newer Rangers from the rust belt. Not to ruin your day but you should also take a good look at the core support... and look close at the bottom of the doors too. Both places are pretty common rust areas also. As if it needs to be any worse... the rear frame sections around the rear spring shackles and spare tire cross member are also known to have rust through issues.

I should also add one more thing here... if your truck is equipped with a 4.0L SOHC engine... you should really just replace the timing chain tensioners if you don't know their history. If one of those fails... it can be a really really bad day. Search up the information here in the forums for more information.

It can all be fixed... but I know that isn't what you would expect for that kind of money. Some members have repaired the bed rot issue themselves... but there is not repair panels for this task... they typically DIY the repair.

The last RVB I bought I looked in the south and had shipped to the north. I've dealt with too much rust already in my lifetime.

We also have a parts wanted section in the classified forum... It's free for you to use in your search for replacement parts. So feel free to make a post there with your needs.

Hang in there and...

Welcome to TRS...
 
Welcome to TRS!

Whereabouts in Ohio? There’s a few members around…
 
Don't forget that just because the truck is being sold from Florida doesn't mean it's a Florida truck you look at the Carfax and you'll see ones that came from way up North and spent their whole life there and just got shipped to Florida to sell it
 
It's pretty common on the newer Rangers from the rust belt. Not to ruin your day but you should also take a good look at the core support... and look close at the bottom of the doors too. Both places are pretty common rust areas also. As if it needs to be any worse... the rear frame sections around the rear spring shackles and spare tire cross member are also known to have rust through issues.

I should also add one more thing here... if your truck is equipped with a 4.0L SOHC engine... you should really just replace the timing chain tensioners if you don't know their history. If one of those fails... it can be a really really bad day. Search up the information here in the forums for more information.

It can all be fixed... but I know that isn't what you would expect for that kind of money. Some members have repaired the bed rot issue themselves... but there is not repair panels for this task... they typically DIY the repair.

The last RVB I bought I looked in the south and had shipped to the north. I've dealt with too much rust already in my lifetime.

We also have a parts wanted section in the classified forum... It's free for you to use in your search for replacement parts. So feel free to make a post there with your needs.

Hang in there and...

Welcome to TRS...
Thanks for the info Uncle Gump. It sickens me to think of putting more money in this truck! By the time I get everything fixed, I could've bought almost a new one! My mechanic checked out the engine pretty good. I had all the fluids changed, radiator, AC, oil, etc. Complete tune up, new belts, plugs, plug wiring, pretty much everything! Just put in a new battery and alternator recently also. I also put on new tires and replaced the old rims with new factory OEM rims. I wanted to keep the same looking rims! They are sharp! I'm in so deep now, I can't sell it! Hopefully I can get it all done soon and start enjoying it more! I really like driving it. It drives great now, since everything's been replaced! LOL!
 
Im between Marion & Kenton myself.
 
@Smack99

I feel your pain on the money spent... but I'm serious about your timing chain tensioners. If that truck has a 4.0L and 100k or better... if your mechanic can't tell you they've been replaced... you should really do them.
 
@Smack99

I feel your pain on the money spent... but I'm serious about your timing chain tensioners. If that truck has a 4.0L and 100k or better... if your mechanic can't tell you they've been replaced... you should really do them.
Are the timing chain tensioners for that engine particularly prone to failure?
 
Are the timing chain tensioners for that engine particularly prone to failure?

After about 03... all the 4.0L SOHC got updated timing components. The earlier versions were a disaster and added to the bad rap the 4.0L SOHC still carries today.

The tensioners are a mechanical/hydraulic device and the internal spring is there to keep tension on the timing chain guides until the engine builds oil pressure on a cold start. So the springs do degrade and it's probably the number one cause of the dreaded "start up" chain rattle. Not only that but the small oil passages will clog depending on the level of maintenance the engine has received.

So are they prone to failure? I don't know... but they do wear and proper maintenance is the key to keeping them functioning properly. So it's cheap insurance to do them as maintenance at about 100K. If you just bought a vehicle with no history... It's wise to just replace them for a piece of mind and it sure beats replacing the engine in the event of failure.
 

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