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Hello! 2.9 wont stay running


rwmj

Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2022
Messages
8
City
louisiana
Vehicle Year
1987
Transmission
Manual
Hello! first time posting long time(3 years) viewer,

My name is Richard and i purchased a 87 ranger out of a scrap yard for 500$ and have been working on it for the past 3 years.
It's a 2.9 manual and it ran when purchased but sat in the garage for 2 years due to finical issues. Remember hurricane Laura? she is my ex wife and took the house when she left!
It will crank and run for 20-30 seconds sounding good then will act like fuel/air starve then die. when i got it i installed new coil, points, wires, and plugs, along with a lift and wheels etc...
it ran fine then was parked. since i have started working on it again it now has new pick up fuel pump, high presser pump, and filter i can turn key and hear it prime right away.
and now im at a little of a loss on what to check now, thanks in advance for any help! P.S. i did plug the wire back up into the throttle body.
20220325_145125.jpg
20220325_145059.jpg
20220318_084947.jpg
 
Welcome to TRS :)

Looks like a nice project

Gasoline lasts about 4 to 6 months in a gas tank, how old is the gas in the tank?

Can you keep it running by spraying fuel into the engine
50/50 test
That will tell you if spark or fuel delivery is the issue

Could even be a clogged exhaust, if pressure builds up in exhaust system engine stalls
 
Thank you! when i got it i cleaned and emptied tank, it a newish tank defiantly not the original and put 10~gal of non eth gas in it, when i pulled it out i added 10 gal of fresh non ethanol and a can of Berriman's
its still less than half full and doesn't look bad if i bypass it into a bottle
i havent tried bottle feeding it yet, im a one man army atm lol
using fords steal me junction i have good spark with the little light bulb viewer
 
Welcome to the site.
 
You can use the Starter Relay(solenoid), on the engine bay inner fender, to start engine from engine bay
On the Starter Relay is a smaller post, will have an "S" next to it
Usually a red/blue wire is attached
When that small post gets 12volts the relay closes and starter motor activates
This BYPASSES the SAFETY switch on clutch pedal, so MAKE SURE transmission is in NEUTRAL

Turn Key on
Confirm NEUTRAL
Put a temporary jumper wire on "S" post, touch other end to Battery Positive
Engine starts, or cranks
Add fuel as needed
 
there is a, valve?, where it come up to the fuel rail and injectors. it has a good bit of presser when i depress the center thing
 
also this line is pulling a TON of air/vac at idle. is that normal?
Screenshot 2022-03-26 165946.png
 
it stays running if i feed fuel in it though?
Oops... I'm wrong. It's a fuel problem.

My excuse....I had double knee surgery 8 days ago and am on some good pain killers. :)
 
In a 1987(up thru 1994) the spark system is separate from the computer(Fuel system)

Start up with 50/50 test means spark system is working but the fuel system is not
If you have fuel pressure, the little valve you pressed and fuel came out means you have fuel pressure
Then the fuel injectors are NOT OPENING, which means a computer issue

Do you have a CEL(check engine light) on the dash?

It should come on with key ON, that means computer powered up(having fuel pressure means that as well)
The CEL should go OFF as soon as engine is cranking/turning
If the computer gets the "spark pulse" from the distributor, it can Time the fuel injectors, this pulse(PIP) will turn OFF the CEL, if CEL stays on then computer is not seeing the pulse so never opens injectors

On the side of the distributor is the TFI module, that's where the PIP(pulse) comes from, unplug it and plug it back in, cleans the connections
Try starting again

If you have a Tachometer it also uses the PIP signal, so if its not moving when cranking engine over then no timing pulse and no start
 
In a 1987(up thru 1994) the spark system is separate from the computer(Fuel system)

Start up with 50/50 test means spark system is working but the fuel system is not
If you have fuel pressure, the little valve you pressed and fuel came out means you have fuel pressure
Then the fuel injectors are NOT OPENING, which means a computer issue

Do you have a CEL(check engine light) on the dash?

It should come on with key ON, that means computer powered up(having fuel pressure means that as well)
The CEL should go OFF as soon as engine is cranking/turning
If the computer gets the "spark pulse" from the distributor, it can Time the fuel injectors, this pulse(PIP) will turn OFF the CEL, if CEL stays on then computer is not seeing the pulse so never opens injectors

On the side of the distributor is the TFI module, that's where the PIP(pulse) comes from, unplug it and plug it back in, cleans the connections
Try starting again

If you have a Tachometer it also uses the PIP signal, so if its not moving when cranking engine over then no timing pulse and no start

i haven't noticed the CEL, but can this still be a problem if the thing cracks then runs for 1-2 minutes then acts like fuel starvation?
 
No, it can't start at all if computer wasn't opening the injectors

But you had said it didn't startup, that was the point of doing the 50/50 test

So now you will need to start it up and let it run until it starts to stall and THEN feed it fuel manually to keep it running
If you can keep it running by manually adding fuel then you are correct in "assuming" its running out of fuel
If it still stalls then spark is cutting out

A running fuel pump rarely shuts off on its own
Could be filter(sock) in the tank is clogged up
You can install a pressure gauge on the fuel test port, see if pressure is dropping just prior to stalling, 1986-1997 run 30-40psi fuel pressure
If its a "new" fuel pump that means its NEVER EVER been tested, you are the first, so..................grain of salt with "new" parts

TFI modules(spark) are known for shutting down as they heat up, but "usually" much longer than 1 or 2 minutes, but it is a known issue
 
No, it can't start at all if computer wasn't opening the injectors

But you had said it didn't startup, that was the point of doing the 50/50 test

So now you will need to start it up and let it run until it starts to stall and THEN feed it fuel manually to keep it running
If you can keep it running by manually adding fuel then you are correct in "assuming" its running out of fuel
If it still stalls then spark is cutting out

A running fuel pump rarely shuts off on its own
Could be filter(sock) in the tank is clogged up
You can install a pressure gauge on the fuel test port, see if pressure is dropping just prior to stalling, 1986-1997 run 30-40psi fuel pressure
If its a "new" fuel pump that means its NEVER EVER been tested, you are the first, so..................grain of salt with "new" parts

TFI modules(spark) are known for shutting down as they heat up, but "usually" much longer than 1 or 2 minutes, but it is a known issue


I don't believe I said that it wouldn't start just that it would stay running, I did the bottle feed and it will stay running long as I'm giving it fule did this for a solid 10 minutes. It's definitely fule cut for some reason. Called a fried with some fule guages will update when he comes over. Thank you guys for the ideas and help
 

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