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Head stud sealant?


rusty ol ranger

2.9 Mafia-Don
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
13,864
City
Michigan
Vehicle Year
1987
Engine
2.9 V6
Transmission
Manual
My credo
A legend to the old man, a hero to the child...
I had a couple head studs come out on my 2n tractor when i pulled the head.

One of them goes in through a water jacket.

Whats the best/proper type sealant to use on this?
 
Mack recommends their elastic grey silicone for head or exhaust bolts that go into oil or coolant passages… but then again, I’ve never seen a Mack engine that didn’t have some kind of leak.
 
The last time I needed it... was a small block Chevy head studs. I used this...

1723382288121.png
 
Mack recommends their elastic grey silicone for head or exhaust bolts that go into oil or coolant passages… but then again, I’ve never seen a Mack engine that didn’t have some kind of leak.
I've seen very few engines of any brand that didn't leak unless they were brand spanking new or a fresh, professionally done rebuild.
 
The last time I needed it... was a small block Chevy head studs. I used this...

View attachment 114894
I ran across that on google. Was leaning toward it as ARP is known for head studs and fastners.

I got 100 different answers on google from red loctite to rtv. So i asked guys i trust.

Ill order a tube of that.


I've seen very few engines of any brand that didn't leak unless they were brand spanking new or a fresh, professionally done rebuild.
The detroit reman in the pete i drive started leaking as soon as the warrenty was over. They timed that perfect.

The cummins i used to drive leaked like the exxon valdez. But it also had 1.3 million on it.
 
I ran across that on google. Was leaning toward it as ARP is known for head studs and fastners.

I got 100 different answers on google from red loctite to rtv. So i asked guys i trust.

Ill order a tube of that.



The detroit reman in the pete i drive started leaking as soon as the warrenty was over. They timed that perfect.

The cummins i used to drive leaked like the exxon valdez. But it also had 1.3 million on it.
After all these years, you trust us?
 
That ARP stuff works...

I would also run a thread chaser down the holes and clean any remaining old sealer... blow a little brake clean through them too.

Should be squeaky clean before assembly begins.
 
That ARP stuff works...

I would also run a thread chaser down the holes and clean any remaining old sealer... blow a little brake clean through them too.

Should be squeaky clean before assembly begins.
Good advice.

After all these years, you trust us?
Strangely....yes.
 
I use a Permatex thread sealer that's probably similar to the ARP stuff. I write the date on the tube when I open it and throw it away on it's first birthday as a precaution. I used some 2 year old sealer on the flywheel bolts on my Mustang when I put the first Dual Friction clutch in it and the clutch slipped the first time down the drag strip. When I took it apart I found oil oozing around all the flywheel bolts and lubing my new clutch. I cleaned the flywheel and pressure plate with brake clean and resealled the bolts with fresh sealant. I sent the disc back to Centerforce and they replaced the friction plates on it for about 1/2 the cost of a new one.
 
I've seen very few engines of any brand that didn't leak unless they were brand spanking new or a fresh, professionally done rebuild.
Guess I really am a profreshional then. MY engine doesn't leak.:blush:
 

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