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Grinding/ticking when clutch pedal pushed in


jp52

Active Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2024
Messages
28
City
oregon
Vehicle Year
2000
Engine
2.5 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
My credo
Try to be nice
Hello all,

Did some searching around on the forum and didn't find an answer so here goes.
Recently replaced the master/slave cylinder on my 2000 ranger 2wd 2.5L. Everything was fine for a 900 hundred miles or so. Now when I am driving or stopped, I get a ticking noise from the transmission (even when parked) and a grinding sound (this seems only to happen when moving) The grinding sounds like the clutch isn't fully disengaged but its not quite the same, it seems lighter somehow, but it seems to only happen when moving.

It seems like this resembles the conditions required for a pilot bearing to be the problem, but wanted some input before I pull the trans out again.

No fluid loss or visible signs of leaks and pumping the clutch doesn't seem to effect it.

Thanks,

Jon
 
OK one further detail. If I'm driving, with the clutch pedal down, with the truck in gear and i get it to make the noise and I slow down to a stop, it still makes the noise until I let the clutch back out.
 
could be loose bolts... fragged spring..pilot issue or the tob.
 
TOB was replaced with master/slave cylinder, although it could be bad since it was not OEM. I'll check bolts today, do you mean a spring in the clutch?
 
yes tob or clutch dampner.

i have blown a few apart.


as to bolts.....anything...bell ... flywheel...pressure plate.... harness.... exhaust..... cross member...
 
Well its definitely the pilot bushing. That thing is in a million pieces. Needle bearing bits everywhere. Wonder if I damaged it re-installing the trans after the slave cylinder replacement.
IMG_0371.JPG
 
How does this clutch look?
IMG_0376.JPG
IMG_0372.JPG
IMG_0376.JPGIMG_0372.JPG
IMG_0376.JPG
IMG_0372.JPG
 
Looks like its too worn. Going to replace the clutch and flywheel. Any info on flywheel bolts? Are they the same on the 3.0 and the 2.5?
 
So if you are searching for a Pilot bearing tool that works, I got the Harbor Freight one below.

Really had the crank the piss out of it to get it tight enough as the next size up was too big.

My bearing was trashed and I trashed it worse trying the bread method(probably used too large a bolt and mangled the bearing.

Anyway, harbor freight for the win. None of the Autozone rental tools worked as the space behind the bearing was very small and the rental tools only contact in two points.
IMG_0398.JPG
IMG_0401.JPG
 
Parts arrived from Rockauto and I was able to get the whole thing back together in 3 hours 20 min. Needed to burp the slave cylinder but was able to drive it away. Clutch still seems a little soft, so I plan to bleed it this weekend but its drivable and way quieter than before.

In case anyone wants to know, its way easier to refill the trans from inside the cab by removing the shifter and pouring it in.
 
i suspect many of us fill the trans that way when changing it.


i usually use a bushing cutter when the bearing is mangled.... that harbor freight tool seems like something i may go buy after seeing this.


its typical to have to take a few tries to get it completely bled.
 

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