gas tank question

[jcook1994]

i just got an 87 ranger king cab 4x4 with a 2.9 v6..i found out the gas tank is leakin a good amount around the seal in the middle of the tank. i have a new gas tank and have read a lot about some of the connections but i think that everyone on here my know more. just curious there are 3 holes in the new gas tank and i think 1 is for the fuel pump, 1 is for the filler neck, and 1 is a for air but could someone help describe the process of taking it out and all the connections..thankkss

 

[PanamaExpat]

I have the tank out of my 94 and it has 3 holes filler neck, fuel pump and gauge sender unit, and a hole where a vent with an anti rollover valve in it. Not sure on R&R on the 87 but on the 94 you lift the bed and disconnect everything then fight with getting all the rusty bolts off the skid plate heat guard. Then fight the rusty bolts on the tank straps if the straps aren't rusted through. Slide tank back and drop to ground then remove from under truck. Installation: check condition of straps repair or replace if necessary, and follow the reverse of the above directions.

Oh and I forgot the most important step: Consume case of favorite beer. If you run into problems make that 2.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Pull the bed, much easier. Three screws at the filler neck, the wire harness at the back, one connector, and the large torx bolts in the bed floor. If they have never been out, use a ratchet and the bit, don't use an impact. The locktite and the bolts into the clip nuts mean that an impact just bounces them around and won't turn them.

Charles

 

[adsm08]

The three holes are, as stated, the pump assy, the filler, and the evap connection/roll over valve.

 

[jcook1994]

how hard is it to remove the bed of the truck...is there anyway i can work around it without takin the bed off?

 

[shane96ranger]

how hard is it to remove the bed of the truck...is there anyway i can work around it without takin the bed off?

Depends how much rust you've got, and hopefully you don't have a spray in bedliner. IIRC, there are 6 bolts that hold the bed to the frame, 3 screws that hold the filler neck to the bed, and you have to disconnect the tail light harness behind the rear bumper. If you have any add-on's like mud flaps, or cab/shell lighting, you may need to mess with that as well.

 

[jcook1994]

so would everyone recommend pulling the bed off as the best way...cause i would like to avoid that and just be able to drop the tank because it would be a lot more work and time pullin the bed

 

[saskbill]

Try loosening the bed bolts before making any decisions.

#50 Torx (somebody jump in if this is wrong off the top of my head its 45 or 50 and 50 sounds right), adapter to 1/2" drive (assuming your torx is 3/8" drive), breaker bar or rugged ratchet & snipe, and try turning on them (ones behind cab will be worst as I recall).

If you can get at them underneath, spray some PB blaster (or your witch juice of preference) on the bolt threads/clips first. and let them sit awhile.

If the bolts crack loose for ya, keep going. If they turn for awhile, then start getting tight/creaking, back them off a bit then keep going.

Either you get lucky (how much snow/salt on the roads in winter, in your locale?) and they turn out reasonably nicely, or they will be horribly rusty, fight you alll the way, and then snap off 'cause there was only half a bolt in the middle anyway.

If you can get the bed bolts out, bed off is absolutely the way to go, just like in the first response to your question. The straps are bad enough to get out with access from the top; wouldnt want to fight with them with the bed on!

Good luck

 

[PanamaExpat]

Actually it is a lot more work and time not pulling the bed. Removing the bed makes getting to all the other rusted up crap a whole lot easier. Trust me on this one. If there is one thing Rangers do it is rust. It took me all of 20 minutes to pull my truck's bed and it is a whole lot easier when you can work from above rather than laying on your back with all the crud getting in your eyes.

Removing the bed also allows you to give a good inspection to things like spring hangers, shackles, rusty brake lines, etc. But it's up to you. See what happens when you remove your bed and start inspecting.

 

[Dune Runner]

On my old Ranger I used a high speed and cut an access hole in the bed. I made a hinged door for it and it was all under the bedliner anyway. made changing the fuel pump short work. And I could do it along side the road if needed. I did the same thing to an exporer I owned only it was under the back seat.

 

[jcook1994]

ok thanks for the responses i will see if i can work on it today at my shop if there is any time left over

 

[shane96ranger]

Try loosening the bed bolts before making any decisions.

#50 Torx (somebody jump in if this is wrong off the top of my head its 45 or 50 and 50 sounds right)

My 96 was a T55.


Sent from a Commodore 64 using a 300 baud modem

 

[jcook1994]

took the gas tank out today wasn't hard at all...i didn't have to remove the bed just took the filler neck off then the 4 bolts for the shield then the 4 bolts that hold the hangers and supported gas tank with a trans jack then lowered a little then disconnected everything..it helps workin in a shop with lifts...too bad i got the wrong gas tank but returned it and the new one that is correct is on the way and will be here tom morning at advanced auto at 7 30am

 

[PanamaExpat]

Glad to hear that you got it sorted out. Sounds like you didn't hit the usual everything rusted together issues. And yes having a lift makes all the difference. I keep hoping I can find someone selling off a used one.

 

[jcook1994]

yeah i was lookin in a northern tool magazine and you can get some pretty nice ones for $2000 to $3000