Full size axel swap 78 d44 and 9" SAS in 86 B2

[BabyBronco89]

Ok so I'm moving my build thread from the b2 area here to get a little more traffic and insight from the experts

So here is the build plan,

Starting with my 86 bronco 2 it's got a 90 4.0 and dash and front clip
It does need a little tlc, and I'm working on that

I'm keeping the 78-79 axles full width to help with stability the broncos wheelbase is already narrow, so I wish to help correct this a little.

The purpose of the build is to have a rig that is capable on the trails and offroad. But also able to do its truck dutys which for me involve a lot of heavy towing, tow dolly, enclosed trailers, camper, fishing boat.

So I'm not really looking for a super flexy suspension but a nice tight solid suspension I can take on the highways and load a substantial amount of weight on the tongue and go!!

I've towed some pretty scarey things with my little b2 and it has never let me down even on Ivey snow clad mi roads!

Right now I am collecting parts and getting a better understanding of how to do this the right way. So bear with me.




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[BabyBronco89]

So we will start off with the pics of me bringing the axles home..

here is the d44 on the tow dolly after a hour trip back home.

heres the 9" tucked into the back of the b2

here I picked up my radius arms and drop brackets form a guy of Craigslist for 40$ for the pair!!

then I picked up a pair of deaver 4" super lift coils they are very solid and look like they will be a good fit
130$ for the coils and the upper and lower coil retainer buckets

That's about it for now let me know whAt you think,
I think I got the front suspension figured out
Now I just need to figure out the most economical way to get a stiff 6" lift in the rear without blocks


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[BabyBronco89]

So I'm thinking I will spend the winter months cleaning and preping and painting parts. I have just discovered rust removal using electrolysis,
So now I'm looking into building my own electrolysis tub to stand these arms up in lengthwise. Hopefully I can give everyone a step by step guide and post my finished results


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[RangerSVT]

Since you have a short wheelbase rig, I recommend you using a full width 8.8 out back rather than the 9". The 8.8 has a higher pinion location than the 9, which will be important. The coils you have are good, but might be a little tall for what your wanting.
What size tires are you wanting to run? Are you against fender trimming? You will most likely have to cut the engine crossmember's front rib almost flush with the belly of the crossmember as it will contact the dif housing. For stability, move the frame mounted coil buckets out about 2" on each side. You will need an adjustable tracbar, the stock fw is too long, unless you fab a long frame bracket. Same with the steering drag link, its too long in stock form. The gm 1 ton tierod is a popular reliable swap. Are you wanting to extend your wheelbase any? Great project so far

SVT

 

[cdawall]

You can tun the 9" just get a pinion cover. Simple fix to keep the better axle as far as I am concerned. For rear leafs wagoneer/grand wagoneer/J4000 rears fit in the oem location. I run a BDS J4000 lift leaf in my ranger with a Zone XJ lift shackle and zero rate 1" block. Netted plenty of lift (pics in my build thread linked in sig), flex well, ride well and best of all allow me to keep using my truck as a truck.

Keep the updates coming I enjoy seeing rock crawler b2's.

 

[BabyBronco89]

I plan on running 35s with 4.10 gears once everything is installed. For now I want to get it up and running with the 3.55s and the stock 26.5" tires, the beginning of July is when I'll have the funds for the gears and new rubber.

Other then pinion height why is the 8.8 better then the 9" I've always heard the 9 is the way to go.

I'm also thinking about moving the front axle about 2 inches ahead and moving the back axle back about 1-2 inches try to squeeze a little longer wheelbase out of it

I'm not trying to cut fenders 2 much I think I should be able to fit 35s with a 6 inch lift no problem

I would like to get a nice set of fender flares to finish everything off nice, since the tires will be sticking out 4-8 inches farther on each side, and I don't need the man breathing down my neck for improper fenders

What year steering linking age and drag link should I be after? I have the longest stock steering link that's connected to both knuckles that's the only part of the stock linkage I have

I was also wondering about drop pitman arms?

I'm confident the 4" EB deaver springs should give me close to the 6" of lift I'm after, so do I need a 6" drop pitman? Last time I looked they were 250ish I barely have that into my axles..

Thanks for the feed back its always appreciated


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[RangerSVT]

If you do the gm 1 ton steering, and you don't get too crazy with flex, you probably won't need an extreme drop pitman arm. Those coils will give you about a 7" lift. You might want to go with deeper gears, for 35's 4.88 would be best, 4.56 would work good also. I ran the 4.0/4.56/35 combo, the 4.88 would have been better. The 9" is better in that it has a third pinion bearing, and no C clips for the axles. Both axles use 31 spline shafts. I'm currently building a truck that will be a hybrid of all the good of both axles. 8.8 center for better clearance, 9" axleshafts (to delete the C clips) and modified 9.75 disc brake setup. This will use stock length 9" shafts for easy replacement if the need arrives, stock replacement brakes for easy simple maintenance, best of both axles...

SVT

 

[cdawall]

I have a pretty much flat oem pitman arm and gm 1 ton steering ong withn pretty damn good flex. You shouldn't need a drop pitman at all if the steering is setup correctly.

You will get a shit ton of lift from those coils, but you could easily negate that by using a higher mounted upper coil bucket. I also wouldn't bother moving the rear axle. Plenty of rear driveline length as they ait now. The front you need to push forward a bit (mine is 1.5-2") if you want to clear real tires.

The 9" will be fine in the rear. If your that worried about pinion height get a hi9 and move on. As for gearing...I didn't like 4.10's and 33's push to get 4.88-5.13's in it that way you won't be killing it to run 35-37" tires.

 

[BabyBronco89]

Does anyone have a picture of their 1ton steering? I'd like to get a look at how everyone sets it up, do you go on top of the knuckle or below like the original setup?



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[cdawall]

Obviously OTK, the pitman arm is to short in the pic I will be moving to a superduty box tapped for hydro and the superduty pitman arm.

 

[BabyBronco89]

Okay I see, that clears up some things, so ill need to ream the knuckles to accept the 1 Ton ends
Does any one have part numbers for the tie rod ends?


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[cdawall]

search for 7/8-18 you need 2 RH ones and a LH one (one knuckle, pitman arm and draglink to T on tie rod) you also need a T if you are going to run an inverted T style like is on mine.

 

[BabyBronco89]

Here's ruff stuffs 1 ton kit but they want 260$ sum odd dollars
If I can buy the ends I'm sure I can do it for half the price.
Caldwell are you saying your setup has a extra piece for the T?



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[cdawall]

Looks about the same as that.

 

[BabyBronco89]

Sorry guys the snow has had me in a knuckle busting depression, I haven't made any progress on the axel swap yet, my cousins pole barn has been frozen shut with all my tools in it for many a months now, hope fully this stuff is gone soon. Grand Rapids MI had it's 2nd snowiest winter in history and it's not over .


So I'm starting to get ambitious about this project again, waiting for the nice weather. Which means there will be lots of wheeling to do this year, meaning these axels need to be finished ASAP.

I need 1 pair explorer leafs!!!
Anyone close to Mi that has a extra set for cheap?

7 deg c bushings?? Anyone have a used set to get things mocked up?

Shocks.
Extended brake lines, n I'd like a larger master cylinder.

Then my only concern is the drive shaft parts. I have my stock 89 electric shift tcase, n d28 up front n the 7.5 in the back I have 2 different rear drive shafts a cv style n a u joint type I plan on using the u joint type but Iirc you need a yoke flange off of something or another to make it work?? Can any one clear that up??

I figure I might as well start buying n finding parts, so when the snow melts in ready to slap her together



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