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front d35 ttb inner pinion bearing race and oil baffle


lestercheetah

Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2007
Messages
10
City
S.W. LOWER MICHIGAN
Vehicle Year
1991
Transmission
Manual
need help! my housing (aluminum differential pig) is cracked and i need to switch gears over to another housing, everything has been removed except the inner pinion bearing race and oil baffle and i need to know how to remove these without damaging the oil baffle for i plan on reinstalling it in the other housing. i have new bearings and races and seals for this assembly and a collapsible spacer and pinion nut + the other housing. all i have at the moment to remove these are a hammer and punch but i will damage the baffle doing it this way, i cant get a good grip with my cheap slide hammer and my 13 pounder is a little to big....i need advice....thanks to those in the forums, i read them quite often an they keep my 1991 ranger xlt 4x4 running.
 
Your other case more than likely has that race already installed. If it doesn't, then it would be easier and better if you just bought a new race. The pinion seal can be bought new for about $4 from any auto parts stores.
 
I assume you're speaking of the oil slinger that's under the pinion head?
A 4.5" bearing separator should allow you to get the bearing off with minimal damage to the slinger (you may get some small dents in it that can be hammered back flat).
A word of warning, you will NEVER get that bearing off with just a hammer & punch, you need a shop press (a hammer & punch will work for the bearing cups in the housing however).


May I ask how you cracked the case?
 
water and cold michigan winter

I assume you're speaking of the oil slinger that's under the pinion head?
A 4.5" bearing separator should allow you to get the bearing off with minimal damage to the slinger (you may get some small dents in it that can be hammered back flat).
A word of warning, you will NEVER get that bearing off with just a hammer & punch, you need a shop press (a hammer & punch will work for the bearing cups in the housing however).


May I ask how you cracked the case?

no, the oil slinger is on the pinion shaft, the baffle is the first thing to go in the case pinion shaft housing from the inside before the inner bearing race but i made my own tool and removed it, i'm at the point of removing the inner pinion bearing and the oil slinger from the pinion shaft i have the bearing seperator and bearing puller kit from harbor freight but it has the 3" seperator and the bolts are not long enough and i'm going to the hardware store in a few to get longer bolts. what i need to know now is do i remove the oil slinger and inner pinion bearing together as a assembly or pull them off individually? and i will need some advice setting up the gears in the other diff. case. do i really torque the pinion nut to 170-500 foot pounds on this aluminum case? i got the specs from the tech forum but they are kind of confuseing at times. i have a rebuild kit with all new bearings, races. seals,collapisable spacer, and master bearings and races and a new pinion nut and even a axle bearing. and new coil springs and seats, bushings wheel bearings and rotors , brakes and callipers and brake lines ect. ect. in other words the whole front is getting a rebuild and while the housings are off they got whire wheeled to bare metal and my son bedlined them. they look good,even the radius arms are off and bedlined and are getting new bushings to. i could go on and on, i bought this truck new in 91 and im the only owner and i know where its been, its to bad i dont have a video recorder, it would be good for the forums, especially when i hit a deer dead center at 70 mph and rebuilt the front then but that is another story.
 
not to be rude man, but you dont realy sound like your up to the task. Either that or your cheep. Just buy new parts and be done with it. Also, when setting up a used gear set its a good idea to set it back to the pattern it was runing, NOT the factory speck. you may end up with a noisy diff if you dont.
 
Weird... I don't recall mine having any baffles or anything inside the housing itself when I pulled mine apart :icon_confused:

As for the slinger & bearing, they will have to come off the pinion together.
Put the bearing separator between the pinion head & slinger with the flat side of it facing the slinger, tighten the bolts down good, then press it off together with the bearing.

If you need more info about setting up the gears, there are a few links in this post that might be worth reading.
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10228
 
not to be rude man...

not to be rude man, but you dont realy sound like your up to the task. Either that or your cheep. Just buy new parts and be done with it. Also, when setting up a used gear set its a good idea to set it back to the pattern it was runing, NOT the factory speck. you may end up with a noisy diff if you dont.


not up to the task for what? please explain....
 
Weird... I don't recall mine having any baffles or anything inside the housing itself when I pulled mine apart :icon_confused:

As for the slinger & bearing, they will have to come off the pinion together.
Put the bearing separator between the pinion head & slinger with the flat side of it facing the slinger, tighten the bolts down good, then press it off together with the bearing.

If you need more info about setting up the gears, there are a few links in this post that might be worth reading.
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10228

its number 7 in the illistration for the 35 ttb in the tech library..and thank you.
 
I think he was referring to the setting up of the gears. it's a little more touchy setting up a used set of gears to their old pattern than it is setting up a new set, where you just set it up to the given specs.
 
its number 7 in the illistration for the 35 ttb in the tech library..and thank you.

No problem. Hope it helps :icon_thumby:

Yeah my D35 just had the inner pinion bearing race set straight against the housing, no shims, no baffles, no nothing.
When I was done setting up the 5.13s, I think I ended up with a .007 shim or something along that amount behind there, but still no baffles or anything... :dunno:
 
I think he was referring to the setting up of the gears. it's a little more touchy setting up a used set of gears to their old pattern than it is setting up a new set, where you just set it up to the given specs.


exactly what i was saying.
 

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