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Finding a Suitable Frame


Joined
Oct 30, 2024
Messages
3
City
PA
Vehicle Year
2002 Ford Range
Transmission
Automatic
Hello my name is Justin I am new to the ranger forum! I am looking to do a frame swap on my 2002 ford ranger it is an xlt , super cab. The back driver side of the frame is severely cracked and sagging down. I am looking to find a complete frame or at least the back half as I am aware it is separated on two half's. I have called every scrap yard and junk yard in my area and I can't find anything. My question is, where else might I have luck finding a frame or half of a frame. I am feeling kind of discourage and would really like to do this project as the truck used to be my grandpas.
 
Likely anything you find near you will be rusty too.

I would look for a complete tryck down south with a bad transmission or engine cheap.
 
Here is New England, there are a couple guys that make a business out of trucking up southern frames and beds and selling them for a premium in the rust belt. I inquired when I was shopping for a Jeep TJ frame but ended up finding a nice frame at a local auto recycler. Id shop local and then expand my search.
 
Hello my name is Justin I am new to the ranger forum! I am looking to do a frame swap on my 2002 ford ranger it is an xlt , super cab. The back driver side of the frame is severely cracked and sagging down. I am looking to find a complete frame or at least the back half as I am aware it is separated on two half's. I have called every scrap yard and junk yard in my area and I can't find anything. My question is, where else might I have luck finding a frame or half of a frame. I am feeling kind of discourage and would really like to do this project as the truck used to be my grandpas.
Where in PA are you?

I’ve done a half frame before on a 2000 Ranger. Probably within the next year or two I’m hopefully going to be doing a full frame for my F-150 and a full frame for dad’s Ranger.

The rear frame section for my 2000 actually came from a 2wd in a junkyard. Rear frame section is the same. I had some rust on the front section and ended up patching that. Ranger frames from 98-11 were two piece joined at the front leaf spring hanger. Rear section was either 6’ or 7’ bed. Front was 2wd or 4x4 and regular cab or extended cab. The difference in the front section is the front suspension, so anything from behind where the torsion bars would mount is the same if you need to splice a section in the front.

I already got the donor frame for my F-150. It’s actually a 2wd frame but my vintage of F-150 is supposed to be pretty easy to convert. Worst case I’ll straight axle that. 2wd frames often end up cleaner around here because they often don’t see the salt and abuse 4x4s do.

I don’t have a frame for dad’s currently. I’m going to try to source one from a more rust-free area.
 
The rear frame section for my 2000 actually came from a 2wd in a junkyard. Rear frame section is the same. I had some rust on the front section and ended up patching that. Ranger frames from 98-11 were two piece joined at the front leaf spring hanger. Rear section was either 6’ or 7’ bed. Front was 2wd or 4x4 and regular cab or extended cab. The difference in the front section is the front suspension, so anything from behind where the torsion bars would mount is the same if you need to splice a section in the front.
Minor correction:

There are 2 rear sections:
short (found in Regular Cab Short box and SuperCabs' for the 6' box...i.e. about 99% of all Rangers)​
long (found in Regular Cab Long box; 6" longer behind rear wheels; for the 7' box, rare..)​

There are 6 front sections:
Regular Cab Short box, coil springs (exclusive to 4x2; for 6' box)​
Regular Cab Long box coil springs (exclusive to 4x2; 6" longer behind cab; for 7' box)​
SuperCab coil springs (exclusive to 4x2; for 6' box)​
Regular Cab Short box, torsion bars (4x4 and some 4x2s*; for 6' box)​
Regular Cab Long box torsion bars (4x4 and some 4x2s*; 6" longer behind cab; for 7' box)​
SuperCab coil torsion bars (4x4 and some 4x2s*; for 6' box)​
*Technically the torsion bar 4x2 frame is missing the mount for the front differential, and it does need to be cut out of a 4x4 frame and welded in, but my assumption is if you are up to a frame swap, welding one mount would not be beyond your (or a friend's) ability.
It's also not a safety thing - if the mount broke the front differential would just be able to rotate a bit and make bad noises, not anything catastrophic.​
If you want to build a SuperCab long box, you need to either add 6" to the long box frame or 6" to the SuperCab frame (or both to double the overlap).
 
Where in PA are you?

I’ve done a half frame before on a 2000 Ranger. Probably within the next year or two I’m hopefully going to be doing a full frame for my F-150 and a full frame for dad’s Ranger.

The rear frame section for my 2000 actually came from a 2wd in a junkyard. Rear frame section is the same. I had some rust on the front section and ended up patching that. Ranger frames from 98-11 were two piece joined at the front leaf spring hanger. Rear section was either 6’ or 7’ bed. Front was 2wd or 4x4 and regular cab or extended cab. The difference in the front section is the front suspension, so anything from behind where the torsion bars would mount is the same if you need to splice a section in the front.

I already got the donor frame for my F-150. It’s actually a 2wd frame but my vintage of F-150 is supposed to be pretty easy to convert. Worst case I’ll straight axle that. 2wd frames often end up cleaner around here because they often don’t see the salt and abuse 4x4s do.

I don’t have a frame for dad’s currently. I’m going to try to source one from a more rust-free area.

Yes, I am in PA Thank you for the information! sounds like you go some neat projects ahead of you! when you try to source for a frame in a more rust free area is there specific websites that you find success on for this type of stuff?
 
Minor correction:

There are 2 rear sections:
short (found in Regular Cab Short box and SuperCabs' for the 6' box...i.e. about 99% of all Rangers)​
long (found in Regular Cab Long box; 6" longer behind rear wheels; for the 7' box, rare..)​

There are 6 front sections:
Regular Cab Short box, coil springs (exclusive to 4x2; for 6' box)​
Regular Cab Long box coil springs (exclusive to 4x2; 6" longer behind cab; for 7' box)​
SuperCab coil springs (exclusive to 4x2; for 6' box)​
Regular Cab Short box, torsion bars (4x4 and some 4x2s*; for 6' box)​
Regular Cab Long box torsion bars (4x4 and some 4x2s*; 6" longer behind cab; for 7' box)​
SuperCab coil torsion bars (4x4 and some 4x2s*; for 6' box)​
*Technically the torsion bar 4x2 frame is missing the mount for the front differential, and it does need to be cut out of a 4x4 frame and welded in, but my assumption is if you are up to a frame swap, welding one mount would not be beyond your (or a friend's) ability.
It's also not a safety thing - if the mount broke the front differential would just be able to rotate a bit and make bad noises, not anything catastrophic.​
If you want to build a SuperCab long box, you need to either add 6" to the long box frame or 6" to the SuperCab frame (or both to double the overlap).


Thank you! this is great information on the compatibility between frames!
 
Yes, I am in PA Thank you for the information! sounds like you go some neat projects ahead of you! when you try to source for a frame in a more rust free area is there specific websites that you find success on for this type of stuff?
I’m intending on using connections on here to source from non-rusty areas, lol

The 2wd frames that I bought so far were both found in local junkyards.

I always have projects. I like my toys, lol.
 
car-part.com
select the area of the country you want to search.
I've seen good frames in northern Kentucky.
 
Minor correction:

There are 2 rear sections:
short (found in Regular Cab Short box and SuperCabs' for the 6' box...i.e. about 99% of all Rangers)​
long (found in Regular Cab Long box; 6" longer behind rear wheels; for the 7' box, rare..)​

There are 6 front sections:
Regular Cab Short box, coil springs (exclusive to 4x2; for 6' box)​
Regular Cab Long box coil springs (exclusive to 4x2; 6" longer behind cab; for 7' box)​
SuperCab coil springs (exclusive to 4x2; for 6' box)​
Regular Cab Short box, torsion bars (4x4 and some 4x2s*; for 6' box)​
Regular Cab Long box torsion bars (4x4 and some 4x2s*; 6" longer behind cab; for 7' box)​
SuperCab coil torsion bars (4x4 and some 4x2s*; for 6' box)​
*Technically the torsion bar 4x2 frame is missing the mount for the front differential, and it does need to be cut out of a 4x4 frame and welded in, but my assumption is if you are up to a frame swap, welding one mount would not be beyond your (or a friend's) ability.
It's also not a safety thing - if the mount broke the front differential would just be able to rotate a bit and make bad noises, not anything catastrophic.​
If you want to build a SuperCab long box, you need to either add 6" to the long box frame or 6" to the SuperCab frame (or both to double the overlap).

is that just the mount by the yolk, or all 3?
 
Just the mount by the yoke is missing


The other 2 mounts for the front axle are part of the engine mounts:
 

Attachments

  • front axle mount.jpg
    front axle mount.jpg
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Hi guys I don't mean to hijack your post, but I am in a similar situation to the OP. Let me know if i should make my own post

A family friend of mine (elderly couple) own a 2011 ranger and the rear frame sections are shot, as is the spare tire carrier. The real problem areas are where the rear leaf spring mounts attach to the frame. I am also in PA (north east, the scranton area) and I'd like to fix it for them. A rust free rear frame half would be ideal, but I'm having a hard time locating a rear frame half in my area. The posts on this thread have been helpful but I have another question.

I know weld-in patch sections are available for some vehicles. Does anyone have experience using any of these for a ranger? Can anyone recommend a good manufacturer of these patch panels that might work for me? Thanks all
 
if the rear area is shot it's a good possibility the front splice area is gone too.
I've seen the last few inches of the front that are hidden in the splice to be basically gone.
give the entire frame the hammer/poke-it test, hopefully it's savable.
 
if the rear area is shot it's a good possibility the front splice area is gone too.
I've seen the last few inches of the front that are hidden in the splice to be basically gone.
give the entire frame the hammer/poke-it test, hopefully it's savable.
This.

Sometimes it’s just bad around the rear spring hangers but usually it’s a lot more. I’d check well.
 

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