Few important questions...

[Noflers]

My bed is rusted out around where the two mounting bolts attach it to the frame closest to the cab, what are the dangers? I'd post a photo of this, but something is going on with the site and not allowing me to...


I'm looking for a bit of a boost in mpg and I'm wondering what the best route to take is. Upgrade to the ignition coil, headers, or cat-back system? Which will give me the most bang for my buck?

And last, but not least, I plan on replacing the front struts and possibly the coil springs as well. Any ideas on things I should take care of while I'm down there, things that most likely need replacing?

 

[JoshT]

I've seen plenty of trucks driving around with the front section of the bed floor complete rotted away. Biggest danger is something falling through and becoming lost forever while driving down the road. You've still for four more attach points so the bed isn't going anywhere, but it is weaker than it could be.

None of those things are really going to improve MPG on a properly tuned truck. Best bang for the MPG buck is adjusting the nut behind the steering wheel, second to that would be regular maintenance and tune up. Make sure tires are properly inflated and correct size/type for the truck. If you want a mod that will boost MPG a little and isn't bad on the wallet, check into an e-fan swap. Changing axle gear ration can also help, but that's a fair bit more expensive.

Why would you need to replace the coil springs? If you insist on doing so, also check condition of your ball joints, tie rod ends, and front suspension bushings since you will be nearly there when getting the spring out. Ranger uses a shock not a strut.

 

[97RangerXLT]

What Josh said.

The biggest boost to fuel economy is going to be keeping up with the maintenance. The oem ignition, intake, and exhaust are all pretty decent and you will not get much improvement in changing them.

If you want gas mileage, get a Prius. If you want to be cool and have scores of girls attracted to you (at the cost of 25 to 30 mpg, but you can haul a 4x8 sheet of plywood ) keep the Ranger.

AJ

Ps...it is worth keeping the Ranger...

Now to go break the hearts of several young, buxom women by telling them that I am married...

 

[Noflers]

Only reason I'm thinking about replacing the front suspension is because I did the back struts and they were nearly destroyed. Now that the back is in good shape I notice the front end still has some roll and is pretty soft.

I wouldn't be worried about my mpg if I was getting 25-30, but as it stands I average 16-18...

Edit: found out I do have the stock 3.73 gearing. In thinking about swapping for the 4.10's.

 

[SenorNoob]

Where did I miss what tire size you're running with those gears? That makes a HUGE difference in MPG.

 

[JoshT]

Tires can make a huge difference in both mileage and ride/handling, so what are you running for tires? It would really help to know more about your truck, so give us some more details about it. IE: transmission, tire size & type, miles, cab & bed size, etc.

More than likely replacing the springs won't stiffen the front suspension like you want. While springs can sag over time, they still do their job pretty dang well. Replacing the shocks/struts will probably help some, especially if they are shot. Does the front end have a sway bar (AKA anti-roll bar or anti-sway bar) if not installing one will help a lot with roll, if you have one you might even want to see if their is a bigger size available. As I mentioned previously you might want to check over the front end for worn ball joints, bushings, and broken sway bar end links. If you aren't sure what to look for, see if there are any shops in your area that offer free alignment and suspension checks.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Stock 15 inch tires are a good match for the 3.73 gears the 3.0 is no power plant. The first thing I think of is do you know how old the PCV valve and plug wires are. A good tuneup with plug wires and PCV. Do a good decarb with seafoam also can boost compression and improve performance. I change the PCV with spark plugs as a habit now, A $5 part can cost you hundreds in a years time.

 

[Noflers]

Sorry, I thought the truck info is all in my signature. It's a 1999 ranger xlt with the 3.0 v6, 135,000 miles. Automatic transmission. It's got the regular cab with a short bed. Standard 225/70R15 road tires.

It's got some skinny old sway bars.

I bought the truck a couple months ago and I'm starting to get everything that needs to be done taken care of. I really just want this thing to be a reliable rd. Soon I'm going to have to diagnose the transmission being slow to engage and shift.

EDIT: since I still can't get photos up, http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160681

I have the same rust problems as this guy on the bed, my struts looked identical to his when I removed them, we even have the same tools!

 

[FerricOxideRecallDefect]

Sorry, I thought the truck info is all in my signature. It's a 1999 ranger xlt with the 3.0 v6, 135,000 miles. Automatic transmission. It's got the regular cab with a short bed. Standard 225/70R15 road tires.

It's got some skinny old sway bars.

I bought the truck a couple months ago and I'm starting to get everything that needs to be done taken care of. I really just want this thing to be a reliable rd. Soon I'm going to have to diagnose the transmission being slow to engage and shift.

EDIT: since I still can't get photos up, http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160681

I have the same rust problems as this guy on the bed, my struts looked identical to his when I removed them, we even have the same tools!

Ah hey I was just going to post that first photo here.

Something I did not mention in that thread--- look at the one picture where you see the orange C clamp on the frame and crossmember that is above the fuel tank. The reason that is there is because that side of the crossmember was completely separated from the frame and the jagged edge was about 1/2 inch from the fuel line, and that end was movable....NOT safe! I just put the c-clamp there just to move it around the lot around the garage, really. That bed was total and absolute crap, I mean even the part that looks to have no rust was very thin with plenty of pinholing.

I recommend salvaging what you can from your bed and replacing the rest, honestly. What I did was, after using penetrator and a breaker bar to try to loosen the bed bolts (the four in the rear), I smashed my pinky after the bolt finally gave. Then I just got an angle grinder, put a metal cutting disc in it, and carved an "h" type pattern in the bolt head and broke it up. Look up the instructions to remove the upper rear shock mount rivets for a similar technique (here and youtube).

Taking the bed off also makes all the other stuff you are probably going to have to do that much easier. People say it takes three people to take off but I just flipped mine off the end myself (after taking fenders off). Then you can "walk" it to wherever you need it. It's not THAT heavy, maybe 150 lbs? (minus tailgate)