Failure to Communicate with PCM while trying to program key

[zf98ranger]

Hello all,

This is my first post here-- I'm not super literate when it comes to auto stuff, so forgive me if any of these questions are stupid or self-evident.

I have a 98 V6 Ranger that I bought from my grandmother and, importantly, it came with one key. I never had a copy made and now I've lost my only key. I called a locksmith out, they found that the ignition had been changed out in the past and the wafers were rubbed down, so they convinced me to let them drill it out. Okay, fine, maybe my first mistake but I just want to get the thing running. But the locksmith then tried to use a chipless key (though i told him I believed it needed a transponder). Needless to say, after he cut the new key, it didn't work. He tried to tell me it was just an issue with the starter relay or something and I said this seemed like the PATS system, which I understand some 1998's have. He also set off the alarm while doing this and the horn is honking like crazy. Now, the horn won't stop. I removed the negative terminal from the battery to shut it up before my neighbors kill me.

Anyway, he left with it unresolved, saying that the truck should be starting with the chipless key, telling me to check my starter and solenoid and whatever else. I did my research and everyone I asked at the local Ford dealers said no, this truck requires a programmed key. He comes back out, cuts a chipped key, we put the battery terminal on, it starts honking/flashing, and while it's honking he tries to connect to the PCM to program a key. He said his scanners could not communicate with the PCM system. Voltage was good, everything on his checklist up to the point of the PCM communicating looked fine. Am I correct to think that he will not be able to communicate with the PCM while the alarm is armed and sounding? I know that the cigar lighter is operated by the same fuse as the OBD port, and my cigar lighter worked right up to the point of me losing my key.

I'm sure there's relevant information I've left out, so I'll try to provide it to anyone who asks. I just want to get a key that will operate this truck again. Two days ago I didn't even know what a PCM was, and now I'm sitting here reading these forums trying to figure out what in the world is the issue. Any help would be appreciated. My next course of action might be to program a key fob to the truck to shut off the alarm, but 1) I'm not sure this will work and 2) I'm not sure I can do this without a programmed key.

Edit: Also, if this thread is in the wrong forum, just let me know where it fits best

 

[Curious Hound]

Check the fuse for the OBD II connector. I think it may be same as cigarette lighter port. Check owners manual to be sure.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Sounds like that “locksmith” had no idea what he was doing…

It also sounds like there may be an aftermarket security system at play here because setting off the early PATS just typically resulted in a no-start and the Theft light on the gauge cluster being lit solid, not the vehicle freaking out with horn and all. Probably should get under the dash and go looking for that, may provide some clues.

Drilling out an ignition cylinder should be last resort for any sort of decent locksmith. The wafers have more of a tendency to stick than to wear significantly. He also should have plugged in to the OBD2 port and verified things before going all willy-nilly after it. Also, not all chip keys are created equal.

Sounds like a rather inept ”locksmith” to me. If you were closer I’d see what I could do with it since I dabble in locksmithing…

 

[zf98ranger]

Check the fuse for the OBD II connector. I think it may be same as cigarette lighter port. Check owners manual to be sure.

Will make this my first step

 

[zf98ranger]

Sounds like that “locksmith” had no idea what he was doing…

It also sounds like there may be an aftermarket security system at play here because setting off the early PATS just typically resulted in a no-start and the Theft light on the gauge cluster being lit solid, not the vehicle freaking out with horn and all. Probably should get under the dash and go looking for that, may provide some clues.

Drilling out an ignition cylinder should be last resort for any sort of decent locksmith. The wafers have more of a tendency to stick than to wear significantly. He also should have plugged in to the OBD2 port and verified things before going all willy-nilly after it. Also, not all chip keys are created equal.

Sounds like a rather inept ”locksmith” to me. If you were closer I’d see what I could do with it since I dabble in locksmithing…

Unfortunately I think this is at least part of the issue. But I don't know enough about these things to be totally sure-- for instance, had i known what I know now, I'd have had him try to program the key after we sat around and the horn alarm stopped. I'll check for an aftermarket alarm under the dash this weekend-- seems like it should be pretty straightforward to yank out. I guess the other option is that the truck perhaps does not have PATS, but I've been told by multiple dealers that a '98 V6 Ranger with power lock and windows may well have it. Ill keep messing around with it.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Does the truck have a light that flashes Theft on the gauge cluster? If not, it “shouldn’t” have PATS.

Next step would be to plug into the OBD2 port with a scanner that can see the anti-theft stuff and see if it is there.

 

[Brain75]

couple additional thoughts and resources.
being your granny owned it for years I doubt she did a motor swap, but..... who had it before - any reason at all to think the motor has been swapped?
The PATS stuff is not really really well organized all into one place... the best I could do is point you at a thread I started "Pats Sticky?" and from there the articles Jim (site owner) put together when I nudged him with that thread.
According to the cross reference I created from official Ford Service Sheets and TSB's 98 did not have PATS in the Ranger, but did in the Explorer, I just glanced at the chart (my last post in the thread below - #8) and right now I am sitting here saying "that is wrong..." I am pretty sure some 98's have been reported/diagnosed/helped/swapped here by others so "some" 98's have PATS I am pretty sure... but I am not 110% sure so don't quote me on it.
anyhow read through the whole thread cause it links off to a few different good resources and the quickie chart at the bottom has some info you might want:

PATS, Sticky thread?

We get a fair number of PATS questions, and in searching I found this: https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/understanding-ford-pats-the-passive-antitheft-system-explained/ Up till now I only thought of PATS flavors as 1 and 2, not A/B/C/D/E/F/G, and didn't know the diagnostics of "if it runs...

www.therangerstation.com

I don't think the horn gets involved in any year ranger of the "old stuff" (2011 and previous) when it comes to PATS. RKE (Remote Keyless Entry) is a completely separate system that doesn't speak to theft and does 1 job - open/close doors. The '07 I monkey with had all 3, PATS, RKE, and an aftermarket RKE/security... and like you I got one (real) key... aftermarket alarm was probably to blame for some starting issues and the owner (mom) wanted it gone so it went bye bye. It was simpler than I thought
Wish you had came here 1st before loosing the key cause I would have advised you to get 2 spares, 1 as an every day "yeah that's the spare", and one squirreled away in a safe in case you loose both.
You can program a genuine Ford fob all on your own if you have a Ford RKE, without paying the dealer $1,000 to do it for you. If you have 1 key you can add and delete keys with only 1 (it takes 2 minimum programmed in at all times - so you have to have 2 keys anyhow)... but if you really really couldn't find your one key well too late now.

It sounds to me like undoubtedly you have an aftermarket alarm in there.
You have to have 1 working (and 2 programmed in) PATS keys on a PATS system to add/ remove RKE fobs, so getting a fob to shut off the alarm is A) not possible at your current point without working keys B) not the right direction cause Ford RKE doesn't do anything more than "chirp" the horn.

 

[Brain75]

and here is the articles Jim assembled/revised from my nudge:

Ignition, Charging & Computers - The Ranger Station

DISCLAIMER: Activities and vehicle modifications appearing or described at The Ranger Station and it’s pages may be potentially dangerous. We do not endorse any such activity for others or recommend it to any particular person – we simply describe the … Continued

www.therangerstation.com

I am going to add one big huge caveat, he has repeated something from the official ford TSB "PATS aid" that your average Joe should NOT do. Do NOT delete all keys and then add back keys, I think that is something Forscan can not complete successfully (or the rate is low), but Ford's million dollar computer can... Once you delete all keys if you have any issue getting a key programmed it is a tow to the stealership and open up the wallet for the drain. ADD new keys first, then when they all work, individually delete single (old) keys one at a time.

 

[Brain75]

Oh and something I said about getting "1 (real) key"... I got 1 genuine stratech key on that '07 and a generic aftermarket key (we'll call that the "ebay" key now).. It had "made in china" on the back and "F150" on the front. The aftermarket (be it "good" Ilco from ACE, or ebay or or or - any of em) have been known to cause start issues, hence we really really strongly suggest you get Stratech or Huff keys (you can get genuine stratech on ebay). The Ford "Pats aid" sheet also suggests a few more but no idea where to get em or if their direct to consumer is the factory rejects like GM... what the "PATS job aid" says: "THE ONLY FORD QUALIFIED PATS KEYS ARE THOSE MANUFACTURED BY: FORD ROTUNDA, ILCO, STRATTEC, HUF, AND VALEO. " (it then has 5 paragraphs saying only rotunda for these years, and these models etc tons of qualifications)

For me the ebay key would just leave you stranded half the time, crank and no start, you only sit in the parking lot of walmart once for so long before you decide to fix that.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

@Brain75

I don’t believe Forscan has the ability to delete individual keys. It’s all or nothing. Now, my green Ranger, when I got it, I got one unreliable original key. I found a guy on eBay selling keys cut to your code off a good picture of your key and they were genuine Strattec. I got two of those, Forscan on my laptop, and a cable. Well, I had like 5 keys stored in there already and at least back them it was delete all or nothing. So I programmed my two new keys, made sure they showed up in the computer and worked, took a deep breath, deleted them all, and programmed my three back in. The mistake I think some people make is that you need a vlinker cable and a laptop with a good battery or plug the laptop in. I close out everything that I don’t need open on the laptop too. Including WiFi. You don’t want any interruptions or interference when you’re messing with that.

I have since acquired two key machines and I buy only Strattec blanks for anything but my own (I’m experimenting with some of the newer Ford keys that have the remote built into the head on my green Ranger).

 

[Brain75]

I would swear (since I did it to the 07 about 9 months ago.. about 2 months after she bought it), that I added 2 new keys, then deleted one (whose code didn't match anything in possession) afterwards.... I would ask how long ago you did yours... perhaps forscan got updated?

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I would swear (since I did it to the 07 about 9 months ago.. about 2 months after she bought it), that I added 2 new keys, then deleted one (whose code didn't match anything in possession) afterwards.... I would ask how long ago you did yours... perhaps forscan got updated?

Perhaps, I didn’t have to worry about it when I did my 5.0 swap, turns out Forscan is able to marry the computer to the PATS in the 00 year. Or maybe it’s only an option on the newer PATS that the 07 would have? I dunno.

 

[zf98ranger]

Does the truck have a light that flashes Theft on the gauge cluster? If not, it “shouldn’t” have PATS.

Next step would be to plug into the OBD2 port with a scanner that can see the anti-theft stuff and see if it is there.

So yes, it has a blinking theft light. But the horn is also going off with the alarm system. From what you've said, the horn and PATS are not connected, so the PATS system may be there, AND an aftermarket alarm system which is setting off the horn? I'll look for the aftermarket alarm, check the OBD port fuse, and hope one of those is an obvious issue that can be fixed relatively easily.

Additionally, guess I should add this odd wrinkle: after I lost the key, I went out to the truck and was able to actually turn it and start the truck (as in, the engine turned over and started normally) with just my hand and no key inserted. So for all appearances, the truck was on, but when I hit the gas, it did not go forward or backwards, and rpm's didnt move. That was when the ignition was not turned all the way back towards the driver. Eventually, while messing with it, I accidentally turned it all the way back and locked myself out again. But I could not make sense of that.

 

[Curious Hound]

So yes, it has a blinking theft light. But the horn is also going off with the alarm system. From what you've said, the horn and PATS are not connected, so the PATS system may be there, AND an aftermarket alarm system which is setting off the horn? I'll look for the aftermarket alarm, check the OBD port fuse, and hope one of those is an obvious issue that can be fixed relatively easily.

Additionally, guess I should add this odd wrinkle: after I lost the key, I went out to the truck and was able to actually turn it and start the truck (as in, the engine turned over and started normally) with just my hand and no key inserted. So for all appearances, the truck was on, but when I hit the gas, it did not go forward or backwards, and rpm's didnt move. That was when the ignition was not turned all the way back towards the driver. Eventually, while messing with it, I accidentally turned it all the way back and locked myself out again. But I could not make sense of that.

The actual ignition switch is down near the base of the steering column. What you turn with the key is only a simple lock cylinder which pushes a rod that travels down the column to the switch. You can actually remove the switch from the column and manually push it's plunger to the various positions to try to start and run the truck.

 

[zf98ranger]

Update: I am under the steering column now on the driver's side lower dash panel. Not seeing anything that looks like an aftermarket alarm, but maybe this thing in the middle of the console is?