Explorer console install with gauges

[MaicoDoug]

Hey yall,

Just waiting for the humidity to go away, will be here for the rest of eternity I believe...

I decided that the stock Level II console was just not tall enough, not wanting to have a gangsta tilt I pulled it out (still have it & that aluminum thingy too) I found me a center console out of a 2000 something explorer, along with the overhead console. (I'm waiting to see how Corey's comes out). So I installed the thing with some bent up aluminum mounting tabs that connect to the tranny hump and also to various parts along the floor with self tapping screws.

This is where the project stopped 2 years ago. The huge hole between the lower dash and console front was a mystery. What to do now? Already too tight in here anyway. How should I fill that in, way too much lost area. Back then I bent up a piece of 1/8th" 6061-T6 out of my private stash and never did a thing with it. Since I'm a fabricator, I had to account for my time, and material, finally starting back into the project.

Went to Hobby Lobby, found some "marine" grade vinyl material, black. Already had the spray adhesive and started in. My no name gauges are : water temp using an inline pretty blue aluminum radiator sensor "block" that allows a place to mount the sensor once I figure out which hose to cut top or bottom?? A vacuum connected to a blanked off port on the top rear of the plenum, and an oil pressure gauge interfaced to the (once leaking) oil pressure switch, which will now have the switch mounted on the other side of a brass 1/4 npt tee, the gauge sensor doesn't like to deal with engine vibration or so I've heard, so it's going to be mounted on a fender or somewhere not far via an actual copper tube, hey! Not mechanical, I'll see how it works out. It's what "ali express" had in stock. You know the ones with the "pick your dial LED color" feature. So far all 3 have lived in their box for 2 years, and they have not turned to liquid....yet. So today I'' be running the wires, putting a hole in the firewall & mounting the upholstered aluminum insert.

Hoping for the Uncle Gump "Street Tuner" look! No no no no. Pics coming.

 

[MaicoDoug]

I found this 4.0L flow diagram, is this on TRS?

I'll be cutting the upper hose (#4) to install the sensor block and measure the coolant temp going to the radiator.

Got the oil pressure sensor installed, tight work. Hopefully it's leak tight. Got the firewall drilled with a 1/2" hole & grommet.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I have heard from a couple members that putting a temp sensor in the upper hose didn't work so well for a fan controller. Might be because the "probe" at times isn't always submerged in the coolant stream... allowing it to be inaccurate.

For a gauge... it might work well enough... but the gauge will likely read stone cold up to the point the thermostat opens.

I'm leaning to put the sender in the lower hose so it will always be surrounded by coolant. I'm curious to hear your results from the upper hose location.

 

[MaicoDoug]

I did stop with additional consideration. Because I have always messed with small block Chevys at the typical place on the manifold, never any V6 FoMoCo's, and never with any sort of inline sensor. Thanks again Uncle Gump.

Well the gauge shelf is in place, better than that huge hole. Notice the red box's advertising, "unopened". Ali express branded as "Dyno Racing".

The oil sensor plumbing went well. The OEM oil switch - sensor is noted in the manufacturer's notes as having a 1/4" "M"pt, rather than Npt. It's a straight thread and had come loose after 2 years & 6000 miles. But after tapping a 1/8th NPT port in a 3x 1/4" npt Tee, the install was extremely tight especially with the tee not having a full hex to use a deep socket to install. So just threaded everything together & so far leak free. The female thread in the block is indeed a NPT, don't know why exactly the replacement sensor employs a straight thread without any face seal O ring. Today hopefully will wire it all up & run the lines, the water temp will be taken at the bottom of the system, somewhere. My hose adaptor may not be large enough. Enough of that....

Plenty of space for my 400 watt AC inverter. I may consider using a standard duel 125Vac outlet with the typical flip open waterproof cover coming out the side. So this is a explorer center console, 2000 something year model. Had to use some all thread to draw the sides together, the other side has an acorn nut, but this side not yet as it was interfering with my size 13 boots. I opted to cover up the smallest area possible and allow for more open space as I hate to be crammed into a tight space and as you all know the Ranger is a mini truck. I like this arm rest mainly because it's up higher than the stock unit by at least 2 inches.

Need to find some OEM style floor mats, but still need to wire it all up & screw it all down. As you can see the console is tight between the seats, less stuff that gets lost. Thanks for looking. Waiting for Corey's overhead console install. I think I have the exact same overhead. I also believe that my sun visors will interfere, so depending on that possible issue, may consider trimming the overhead once I discover the sheetmetal that I'll be attaching into. -Doug

 

[Corey H]

That last picture gives a good idea of what the finish product will look like! I like all the storage you have with that console!

I looked back at your build thread to see if we have the same idea for the OHC but I got to burst your bubble, I am planning to use the OHC that is usually swapped in second gen Explorer's. I am interested in seeing what you do come up with the VAC controls and how you mount the OHC you got

 

[MaicoDoug]

With the 400 watt inverter poking out the side.

The storage compartment is larger than the stock one. The claw used for reference. The 4.0L runs at 180f maximum after the thermostat opens up. Oil pressure, 30-50 psi, vacuum; 20 at idle, 10-5 acceleration & 0 psi at full throttle. All there is left to do is attachment. The overhead console; currently waiting for cooler weather.

 

[Corey H]

I'm jealous of the amount of storage you are getting out of that console. Is this final assembly or just mocking up to then paint to match the rest of the black interior? Either way the gauges are looking really good. Which inverter did you go with? How was the wiring, did you just go straight to the battery or something different?

 

[MaicoDoug]

The inverter is any old $40 / 400w, came from Harbor Freight I think, if I blow it up, worst case I'll just use some piece of aluminum sheet, cut out some new hole if I need to & mount it up. For the wiring, yes I came in from the battery with 14awg, then to a 30 Amp relay I robbed off some Mitsubishi SUV in a junk yard, soldered, w/ heat shrunk tubing then wired to it powered off an ignition hot wire and used the normally open set of contacts to take that battery 14 awg power source contacted w/ an that engenerized relay to the gauges, later to a small sub amp in the back. I believe these days anyone can buy a multi relay accessory board assembly for not too much.

 

[Uncle Gump]

180 coolant temp at full operating temp...

I'm going to assume you put the hose adapter in the lower hose?

If so that's about perfect... because that's the temp of the coolant entering the engine. If it's in the upper hose... 180 is a bit low for entering the radiator.

 

[MaicoDoug]

Lower hose, I took your factiod and ran with it, nothing to make a temp gauge hit the ceiling any other way than to see trapped hot air. That 4.0L always runs cool. With the AC on with the hottest day. You can see the thermostat open also at 180f, then it hits 120 and starts the climb. I love gauges. The 38mm adaptor fitted perfect, I bought a new lower hose, the old one was bloated a little. Thanks UG, you gave me the info I needed, thought I was needing to get an 1/8" bigger. But I may however still try for some Ford OEM hose clamps with the "hold open" feature disabled. I have some Kline 12" long, 1/2" wide duck bill pliers always in my toolbag. I remember reading somewhere here in the TRS forum, someone says "that thing will never overheat, Ford makes 'em to never do that". They were correct in this case. At 160Kmi even.

Note: the dyno racing gauge has crapped out, the lights quit, boo hoo. Still works-time to start hating dyno racing get something that will work with the sensor, will most likely go back with the same "clapped out junk". Hey they hate Rangers on that Roadkill show...nothing some additional needling can't make worse.