Engine swapped timing issue seeking info

[RideFord94]

Hey guys I'm new to the forum, but anyway I have a 98 3.0 ranger and recently I swapped in a newer 3.0 due to availabilty as opposed to repair. The 'new' motor is from a 97 windstar and everything is identical, aside from a slightly bigger intake cam profile and from what I found the cam synchronizer assembly/cps seems to be similar to the 4.0 sohc so we swapped the synchros. Some assembly later we turned it over and , though the backfiring through the intake stopped, she still wont fire. I realize the synchro is supposed to be 75 degrees although I think mine is set at 60(1 tooth off). Do you guys still think this could be the problem still? We just have been kindof taking shots in the dark lately.

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[RideFord94]

And yes it was tdc when I set it

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[RonD]

You know there are 2 TDCs for each cylinder on all 4 stroke engines, right?
The line on the pulley is for #1 cylinder
1. TDC compression stroke << the one you want
2. TDC exhaust stroke << the wrong one to use

How are you suppose to tell?
remove spark plug from #1, rotate engine clockwise until you hear air coming out #1 spark plug hole.
Rotate a little more until TDC is lined up, that's the Top of the compression stroke, TDC.
Reset CPS

 

[RideFord94]

Its in time at the chain. Meaning tdc on the compression stroke.

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[RideFord94]

Good looking out but yes I know the difference.

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[RonD]

"Its in time at the chain. Meaning tdc on the compression stroke. "

?? timing chain still has 2 TDCs for every rotation, cam gear rotates once for every 2 times for the crank gear.

It was common to install distributors 180deg off, CPS is same as distributor as far as placement

DIS(Distributorless Ignition System) system uses both Crank position(CKP) sensor and CPS
EDIS(Electronic Distributorless Ignition System) only use CKP

But for DIS or EDIS the CKP is the base spark firing sensor, CPS is used to modify the base timing.
So engine should start even with improper CPS.

CPS is used for fuel injector timing, while timing is important once fuel is in the intake it will get sucked in regardless of when it was sprayed, like a carb worked.

 

[RideFord94]

Hmm. The motor is pretty tight. It will turn with the starter but refuses to turn at the crank with a ratchet. Could this be my problem. I was just thinking this was because I went back over the main bearings and they seemed to be torqued properly. Figured the tight motor was because of poor lubrication. I figured it would still fire with the motor being somewhat bound up as long as everything was timed correctly.

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[RonD]

Hmm. The motor is pretty tight. It will turn with the starter but refuses to turn at the crank with a ratchet. Could this be my problem. I was just thinking this was because I went back over the main bearings and they seemed to be torqued properly. Figured the tight motor was because of poor lubrication. I figured it would still fire with the motor being somewhat bound up as long as everything was timed correctly.

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With spark plugs in you might break the main pulley bolt using a ratchet.
With spark plugs out it should be very easy to turn, if it's still tight then there is a problem.

 

[RideFord94]

Yea I imagaine somethings binding it up. We pulled a main cap and a rod cap to get an idea of the wear on the rotating assembly. Retorqued them back down. That might be my problem.

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[RonD]

Yea I imagaine somethings binding it up. We pulled a main cap and a rod cap to get an idea of the wear on the rotating assembly. Retorqued them back down. That might be my problem.

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Well as long as they went back on easily I doubt that would be the problem.
How did it turn when you inspected the bearings?

I would set crank at TDC with Cam Position sensor marked, so it can go back in how it came out.
Then pull it out and check that CPS shaft spins easily and also see if engine turns easier(remember there are TWO TDCs for each ONE turn of the CPS)
If CPS shaft is stiff then replace it, if shaft spins easily and so does crank after CPS is out, then oil pump is the issue, CPS shaft drives oil pump.

If crank is still tight then could be mains or cam bearings.

Slow spinning crank often can't generate enough compression to start engine, gasoline needs to be heated up for spark to ignite it, compression does that, for cold engine that is even more important.
Normal compression should be 150+ psi, below 110psi it gets a bit iffy.

 

[RideFord94]

The motor spun fine before and was a little tight after but now it refuses to budge without aid of the starter. I think I might pull it, slap new mains on and see what it does.

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[RideFord94]

And just to be clear rond I am very aware of the difference between the 2 top dead centers. I dont think I would have any business near a motor if I didnt know the cam spins once for every 2 turns of the crank. Not trying to have a pissing contest but I feel my intelligence is being underestimated. I appreciate your input all the same.

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[RonD]

Wasn't questioning motor knowledge, I just include basic details since others will be reading this thread over the years when they use the search feature, all my posts tend to include basic stuff.

Could the transmission connection be causing the drag on the crank?
Did it go together OK?

Maybe try spinning the crank after trans is disconnected.

 

[RideFord94]

Mm. It was not a smooth connection by any means. We spun the tourque converter for an hour trying to get a third clunk out of it. Then proceeded to go through hell to marry the engine and transmission. Ill try doing that but was I correct in believing that the 4speed torque converter sets in 3 times?

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[RonD]

Yes, I think the 4R44E trans torque converter needed the 3 clicks to be seated in all the way.

Never did a 4R44E but all the torque converters I have done would still spin once bell housing was bolted to block, close to flexplate but would still spin with touching.

After unbolting flex plate from torque converter see if it spins and see if crank turns easier