Engine Swap Alternatives

[AutoRnD]

Honestly. I find any of these projects intimidating but inevitable failure or possible rdicule will not stop me. I wrote in my original introduction post that the first change I wanted to make was the wheel set. Well that was a lie. Lol. I ended up getting a bedliner for $35 and installed it myself.

Yes, for most that's no big feat but for me it marks the start of having the courage to actually commit to this sort of project no matter how long it takes.
Theres a passion for this within me and this site has actually given me quite a bit of confidence. Simply put, that bedliner wouldn't have happened if it wasnt for me siging up for this site. Thank you, guys.

To the point now, I recently spoke with a TRS member about an engine swap. They quickly made me realize I'm in over my head at the moment (which didnt surprise me). Reasons being I'm starting at the bottom of the bottom, never even worked at a shop but an engine swap is a goal of mine on the long run.

The main goal is some sort of Mustang engine. Yes Mustang. However I was told that's a poor choice for certain compatibility issues. The Ford Explorer engine was mentioned as an alternative that would be much more compatible. Now don't take my words and use them against this person I'm talking about, I could be easily explaining what they told me incorrectly. I want to clarify that I was not told to do anything specific, the person was simply speaking fron experience. They have no responsibility for my ignorance. Lol.

I guess what I want to ask is:

What are some swaps you guys did for the Ranger?

What sort of swap would be closer to a beginner level?
(I understand none of it would just be easy but I'm just saying what's the most sinple?)

If not an engine swap, what can I do to get some mean sound out of my current 3.0 v6?
(Eventually I want a horsepower boost but for now I'll go for sound if possible. I'm still learning how to maintain my truck anyway)

 

[sgtsandman]

One thing you could do for more get up and go is to either swap out the rear axle with one that has a higher gear ratio, like a 4.10:1, assuming you have a 3.73:1 or 3.55:1 now. That is a lot easier than regearing your existing axle. Just make sure it is in the same year range as your truck. The 3.0 develops more power at a higher RPM. So, the axle swap would put the engine more in it’s “happy place”.

For sound, a catalytic convert back exhaust can help with that. A V6 still has a bit of an ability to have a rumble to it. Not as nice as a V8 but you won’t get the fart can sound like you would with a 4 cylinder.

There isn’t a whole lot more out there for the 3.0 as far as performance parts. The engine was built to be in vehicles like the Ford Taurus. Not exactly the usual market for performance tuning.

 

[Ranger850]

IIRC @stmitch has a decent 3.0 power plant. Check out his threads for some tips and pointers

 

[AutoRnD]

Working on the exhaust sounds possible for me. I'll try that out. Though I'm not sure what I'm really looking for, I'm sure that'll change. Can I still get the sound I want with a side exit exhaust? I think that side exit like that SVT Mustang style would look sick, granted if the truck was lower and black.

I know more or less what I want. Do I know what some of the parts or techniques or styles are called? Probably not but I'm willing and ready to learn.

Theres a lot of lingo I've yet to understand in stmitch's posts but i did check it out and will be returning as I progress. Thanks for the link.

 

[Roert42]

@mtnrgr has a super 40 on his 3.0, I think. Seems to really like the sound.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

So, I would recommend starting small and working up. An engine (or transmission) replacement swap (same engine/transmission) is a big project and to swap to a different engine/transmission is an even bigger project. The last thing you want to have happen is get in the middle of a big project and run out of money or time or interest or not have the ability to overcome problems. I’ve been there.

My preferred method now is to do as much research as I can and collect as many parts as I can that I know I need prior to starting a project. It’s a lot less of a headache when you have a literal mountain of parts waiting to go on. There’s always going to be something you didn’t plan on needing or whatever, but it’s easier to overcome at that point.

The advantage to an Explorer 5.0 is that they were built to fit our engine bays. Since the Ranger and Explorer share the same engine bays up to the changeover in 2002, it makes swaps a lot more straightforward. The Mustang and full-size trucks had more length available in the engine bay among other things, so they don’t fit as well without a lot of messing around. The Explorer 5.0 has “performance” heads from the factory, Mustang GT40 or GT40P heads. The exhaust manifolds are a bit restrictive on the Explorer motor, but are the only design that clears the 4x4 stuff on our trucks besides the headers made for Explorers. The Ford headers are long out of production. Chinese OBX headers can sometimes be found for varying prices. Or you get the Torque Monster headers that have a waiting list. Made in USA, but you might wait months to a year to get a set.

I would highly recommend a shift kit and some valve body work on the transmission, if you’re looking to improve performance and you have an auto trans, it’s worth it. IMHO, best bang for the buck with these, but it’s a messy and tedious task and not really a good place for a noob to start.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Are you 2wd?

Swapping rear ends for something with a lower gear would be best bang for your buck and time.

But dont let an engine build or swap intimidate you. Its all nuts and bolts.

 

[AutoRnD]

Damn, I'm noob'd out! I'm about to go to the junkyard and learn how to break down a Ranger and rebuild in within 15 minutes like the military does with their Jeeps.

All jokes aside aside, I'm craving knowledge and it keeps growing with every reply i read.

I'm broke until Friday but I keep trying to do little things to my Ranger just to have something to do to it. I put some cheap chain link license plate holder on. I'm looking to do other small stuff until then.

 

[RonD]

You have a 3.0l Vulcan engine, designed in 1984/5 and first used in 1986 Ford cars
Rangers got then in 1991

They are HIGH RPM engines, by design
Most engines make best power/torque at 2,500rpms
3.0l Vulcan makes best power at 3,500rpms
Best horsepower at 4,800rpm

Which sucks if you have an automatic since they shift too soon, under 3,000rpm

 

[AutoRnD]

Are you 2wd?

Yes, 2wd automatic

But dont let an engine build or swap intimidate you. Its all nuts and bolts.

I'll try not to. I do have a an itch and I'm going scratch it eventually.

 

[AutoRnD]

Had to literally google what a super 40 was. I'm going to look back and laugh at myself one day. Its going to be great!

 

[AutoRnD]

In seriousness. Is it worth doubling on exhausts? Or would single make better sound?

 

[RonD]

The Mustang 302/5.0l V8 engines have the long nose pullies and the engine sits lower so they have a taller intake

Explorer V8s 1996-2001 use short nose pullies and shorter intakes so fit into Ranger engine bays

You can put a Mustang V8 in a Ranger but need to get the short nose pullies and brackets and an Explorer V8 intake, so..................

The big number to keep on mind is 20", 20 inches
There is 22" between the heater box and the steering wheel shaft at the firewall in a Ranger engine bay
So 20" is pretty much the maximum width of any engine you choose
The 302/5.0l OHV is 19"
And even then exhaust manifolds are tight

Overhead Cam engines are pretty much not doable unless they are 60deg V's, like the 4.0l SOHC V6
Most V8's are 90deg

 

[AutoRnD]

Really appreciate you guys giving me information about the Mustang engines and why they wouldn't work for me instead of just writing me off.

Could always have your 3.0 rebuilt. I did this with mine, and I am pleased.

I would have to learn how. This truck is something special to me for a personal reason. I have to be able to do the work solo or not at all.

Aside from that, what exactly would a rebuild do? I assume the engine would perform better but why?

@lil_Blue_Ford just as @RonD did, mentioned an explorer engine and I'm really interested in that. The "Mustang parts" excite me. I like learning these details about the engines, wheels, dates, and so on that you all tell me. You guys are amazing!

I also feel like I'm getting comfortable with these forum layouts. You guys were very welcoming and because of that i feel comfortable being so open and I originally thought I wouldn't.

 

[stmitch]

If you're looking for sound, youtube is full of clips of Rangers with the 3.0 and different exhaust combos. Just look around until you find one that you like.

The auto trans in Rangers sucks. They're inefficient, rob power, and (at least for the 3.0L) make it more difficult to enjoy the full power band. A manual swap will likely make it feel more powerful, and it will be more engaging to drive at a minimum. But that's a fairly advanced modification.

For now, I'd focus on getting your feet wet with basic maintenance. The 3.0 likes to build carbon in the combustion chambers. This causes some issues, so I'd grab a can of SeaFoam and run some through the tank, then through the brake booster vacuum line. That will smoke a lot out of the tailpipe for a bit, but it will clean things up.
I'd replace your fuel filter and spark plugs after that. They can be clogged with the SeaFoam, but they're likely old and needing replacement anyway.
Then, I'd do the throttle cable zip tie mod. Your throttle cable is super old and likely stretched. The zip tie mod is super cheap and will restore full capability of your throttle and make sure that it's able to open as intended.

Once that's done and it seems like you're working with a powertrain in decent enough shape we can help you with small bolt on mods, etc.