Engine starting/stalling problems

[Sniper]

Hi everyone, I have a 86 ranger Xl 2.3l that has a engine problem.. bit of backstory, I bought it not starting or running and I have since replaced the starter and solenoid and it still wouldn't start.. it would crank, but not start.. I then discovered that the high pressure fuel pump was installed backwards, so I turned that around and it will start if I spray starting fluid in the throttle body, but I have to hold the gas down in order to keep it running and as soon as I take my foot off the gas it dies immediatly and wont start until I spray more starting fluid.. any ideas what it might be? Any and all help is very much appreciated.

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

How old is the gasoline in the tank?
All gasoline has water in it and if it sits for a few months ALL the water settles to the bottom of the tank.
So fuel pump will be pumping mostly water out to the engine, and engine just can't run on "mostly water",

You have Fuel injection, so there is no "gas pedal" it is truly an "air pedal" with EFI, at least with a carb some fuel would squirt in when you pressed down on the "gas pedal", lol, that doesn't happen with EFI

Could be you are not building up fuel pressure at the engine
On the fuel rail(where injectors get the gasoline), you will see a Schrader Valve, looks like a tire's air valve because that is also a Schrader Valve
And it works the same as a tires air valve, when you press the center pin in pressure is released.
First cycle the key ON and OFF 3 times, the fuel pump should run for 2 seconds, and ONLY 2 seconds, each time key is turned on
If you do that 3 times you should build up 30psi fuel pressure.
Try to start engine after doing this
If no luck then repeat the 3 times and check schrader valve to see if you do have fuel pressure, you can use a pressure gauge but if there is NO pressure then you kind of know thats the problem.

1986 still used a distributor for spark timing, TFI system, you need a timing light to check spark timing

Thats the simple tests, now you should do a compression test, 2.3l should be above 150psi on each cylinder, if not then timing belt may need to be replaced, it has stretched and valve timing is off.

 

[Sniper]

OK, thanks. I will try that later when I get home.. I was thinking about maybe clogged injectors from sitting. it runs pretty good when I have the pedal pressed in, but as soon as I move my foot a little back it dies, even if I press it back in before it cuts off it still dies. and the gas is pretty fresh, not sure but I think the tank was empty when I put more in.

 

[RonD]

If tank was empty that means fuel lines, fuel rail and injectors most like did have varnish left behind when gasoline evaporated, so yes, clogged fuel system would be a good guess.

Fuel injectors have mini filters/screens in them that can get clogged up

First check if system can build up and hold pressure

 

[tomw]

I would borrow, buy or rent a fuel pressure gauge - about $25 or so, less online, and check the pump pressure and delivery volume. I would also remove and clean the IAC. Maybe check the air tube from the air cleaner over to the throttle body if yours has the two conjoined tube system. Either way, check the air duct for critters, nests, etc.
You have a MAP system, and the MAP can go bad, and you will have a very poor idle, maybe no idle. The MAP produces a 'buzz' to the computer that the computer knows how to translate into intake manifold pressure. No or low vacuum means the engine is working hard - WOT as an example, - and more fuel is needed. High vacuum means the throttle plate is closed, and vacuum developed, so the engine is idling or coasting, therefor less fuel needed. If it whacks out, the fuel mix could be way off.
Wouldn't hurt to inspect the air filter element also as there has been time for it to fall apart, generally the rubber around the perimeter deteriorates and the filter can flop around.
tom

 

[Sniper]

thanks for the replys guys, but now I have another problem.. I replaced the fuel filter and the air filter, and also put on a new set of plugs and wires.. I went to start it and it started for a second, ran good then cut off.. now when i try to start it i hear a clunk from the starter area and all the electricity is cut off from the truck until I unhook the battery and put the terminals on again.. then if I try to start it it does the same thing.. could it be a fuse able link that popped, or something worse?

 

[RonD]

Check the other ends of the battery cables, also the starter motor's large cable to starter relay on inner fender(mis-called starter solenoid, lol)
It does read like a cable problem

Most lights in the dash should go off when key is turned to START, it cuts power to most systems so starter motor gets all the power

Yes, could be starter motor itself, check the cables first

Fusible links and fuses are used for alternator and vehicle electrical systems, but not the starter motor
It gets hooked to battery Positive directly when the starter relay closes no fuses, and is always hooked up to Ground, battery negative, by the larger battery cable running to the engine.

Starter relay has a smaller post labelled "S"
When you turn the key to START the wire on that smaller post gets 12volts, and that closes the relay and it connects starter motor to Battery positive

Make sure vehicle is in PARK or NUETRAL!!!!!!

Use a jumper wire from Battery Positive to "S" post, starter motor should activate when you touch wire to "S" post
If not then starter motor or cable from relay to starter motor is bad
If relay doesn't "click" closed then relay is bad

 

[Sniper]

I'll check them when I get home.. I just replaced the starter, starter relay/solenoid and terminals not even a month ago.

 

[RonD]

I'll check them when I get home.. I just replaced the starter, starter relay/solenoid and terminals not even a month ago.

Then something didn't go right

Thats all there is to the starter system, its not a very complicated system, no electronics involved, only fuse is the main fuse for ignition switch, and if that was blown then no dash lights at all when key is turned on

New starter motors have been known to fail out of the box or within a few weeks

"New" used to mean "tested and working"
"New" now means "YOU test it for us and we will replace it if it doesn't work"

 

[tomw]

With all the O-ring terminals on the starter relay, you might want to check that you got them all 'fanned out' so they are laying flat on the relay battery-side terminal. If any are loose, or all, you'll get the 'chirp' of juice when the relay demands for the starter, and then bupkis until the contacts re-connect(at their leisure).
Wiggle all that conglomerate of terminals and I'll bet it can move(rotate) a bit.
tom