Dying engine... Options?

[Chris_North]

Okay, so here's the deal. I have a '98 XLT 3.0 with according to a trusted mechanic a burnt exhaust valve on the #3 cylinder. I trust his diagnosis. So far, except for the already underpowered engine making for an even slower truck and a lot of rough running (also the occasional hard start), the engine has gotten me around for about 10,000 miles. I have the savings, access to tools, and am technically inclined (though not auto-mechanically experienced), so I think I should be capable of most anything. I also have my dad, who has much more experience with such things. What I am not is decisive. I've been googling, asking around, and thinking about it for weeks.

I'm 90% I want to fix my truck. It's a bit smaller than I'd like, lower powered and less efficient, but overall the frame is in great shape, trans seems okay for its miles (140k), and I kind of like my Ranger. Book value, IIRC, in fair shape is about $4000, so I think it would financially make sense to repair rather than replace my truck.

I don't care too much for the 3.0. When I first got it I thought the smaller engine would mean better MPG and I didn't plan on using it for hauling and towing as much as I do, and could deal with being a little slower than other vehicles but this is ridiculous. I can't pass a scooter unless I'm floored downhill and drafting a semi. For as long as I can remember it has had the valve problem, and by my math I should be down at least 25HP from a new engine, so possibly a fully working Vulcan I could live with. This brings me to my first two options:

#1 Replace the entire engine with a salvaged Taurus 3.0l Vulcan.
I know this necessitates changing the manifolds, headers, and head gaskets, but Ranger 3.0s are harder to come by 'round these parts.

#2 Replace/rebuild the heads, leaving the lower end as-is.
This was brought up by a co-worker, one who is a little screwy so I take his advice with a shaker-full of salt. I would guess this option would be a little less labor-intensive for me, but from what I've seen not much cheaper than a complete replace. I didn't look into (is it possible/smart?) getting JY heads and bolting those on instead. The engine isn't original and has at least 70k on it, and from what I've heard usually throwing good heads on a worn lower is inviting trouble. Advice on this?

Then there is also the two more expensive, time-consuming, and possibly more rewarding options that I've seen. The only thing is, I don't have another vehicle. I know people that will give rides and lend cars for a while during my truck's down time, but the longer it takes the more it sucks. I also use my truck (more importantly its vast contents) to make money both at my day job and for work on the side.

#3 Swap the 3.0 for a 4.0
From what I've read this may be more trouble than it's worth. From what I understand I will need a 4.0 computer and either the tranny bell housing or more likely a whole 4R55E trans. Will the transfer case work? Haven't looked into it as much as the other options. The primary advantage of this is more power, and from what I can tell it would be more plug-and-play than my final option:

#4 Put in a V8

My dad joked about this before I researched it and found it more possible than expected. I may know someone with a potential donor vehicle, if not I see a few available for reasonable prices. I think it more trouble and money than it's worth to gather the necessary parts separately. My truck has the puny 7.5 rear, but I'm a fix it when it breaks guy so I will take care of that later. I'm not too keen on the AWD, but I don't see a lot of trouble with leaving my front hubs free until I need it. I would likely eventually explore the other transfer case options later on. My biggest issue is cost and down time. My dad and I both have 40+ hours a week jobs with days off that don't line up. Add that on top of other responsibilities and I see this project taking weeks if not months to complete, during which time I'll be dependent on other people or their old also battered vehicles. Plus, I'd feel a little bad cutting apart an otherwise decent vehicle for parts. I could also just use the explorer and it really wouldn't be that much different than the Ranger 5.0. The horsepower and torque figures and not awful MPG figure in my pickup do leave a tingling feeling in my downstairs region though.


So besides these (and buying a new truck), did I miss anything? What are your opinions? I know I will ultimately need to decide for myself, but I'd like to make sure I get all the angles first. I should also mention I would only be able to do this in a small garage or in the driveway, both using only floor jacks.

Thanks guys.

 

[Lil-Pony]

V8 all the way. If not swap in a good 4.0

No matter what you going to have almost the same amount of down time with both these options but the are the ones i would consider first if my wallet agreeded with me.

 

[86MUDRCJ]

V8 all the way. If not swap in a good 4.0

No matter what you going to have almost the same amount of down time with both these options but the are the ones i would consider first if my wallet agreeded with me.

I agree. I'm in the sane boat right now because my motor decided to go out. I've found out that the 4.0 will be the easiest to swap in but with it being a 98 I don't know how easy it's going yo be. Also the 4 liters have comparable numbers to the 5.0 but that might depend on what year you go with. So really the question is, how much money do you want to spend?

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

Totaled 5.0 Exs are fairly easy to come by cheap. If not totaled, they are commonly found cheap with major AWD problems, easily fixed with the BW 44-06 swap.

It's quite a bit of work, but reasonably simple if you break down all the issues separately, instead of looking at the whole mess. I would just make sure to get a complete running and driving donor.

 

[Chris_North]

So far universal on the V8. Hmm, it would be cool.

So really the question is, how much money do you want to spend?

That's a question I've been asking myself. I'm not sure, honestly. I can spend the money on a V8 conversion, but is that worth it to me? I don't know. I've been thinking, it would probably be about $2000 all said and done. For that price I could simply buy a fuel efficient car and use the (currently still running) truck as needed. Or hell, just drive the exploder. I love the bed though, and even though it's something a lot of other people have done, it would be nice to have a "custom" truck that I put together with my own hands.

With my ranger I've read that it would likely be that I would need to use the explorer steering column. Is this only for the PATS key? Is it possible to disable that system altogether?

The image in my mind is me flying around, doing burnouts and donuts, loud exhaust roaring. Of course if I were to do that I'm sure it wouldn't be long before I'd be asking whether my destroyed truck is worth repairing again...

 

[straycat]

I had a buddy who had the same issue on his 3.0 at 89,000 miles. He took off the head and fixed it. It was about a three hour job. He now has over 200,00 miles on it and that is the only issue he has had with the 3.0. I have several other friends who have the 3.0 and they never had any issues with the 3.0 motor. It is cheaper and less trouble to repair the valve than buy and install another motor that might go out on you the next month. That is something to think about, Bro.

 

[James86]

I had a buddy who had the same issue on his 3.0 at 89,000 miles. He took off the head and fixed it. It was about a three hour job. He now has over 200,00 miles on it and that is the only issue he has had with the 3.0. I have several other friends who have the 3.0 and they never had any issues with the 3.0 motor. It is cheaper and less trouble to repair the valve than buy and install another motor that might go out on you the next month. That is something to think about, Bro.

^^^^This. There's probably a reason you don't see many 3.0 Rangers in wrecking yards - they don't really blow up. Taurus's with 3.0's show up in junkyards because the transmissions are notoriously bad. At least that seems to be the case in my neck of the woods. Most Ranger's and Explorers I see in junkyards are 4.0's. The 3.0 is not a bad motor if you maintain it, and honestly, the quickest and most cost effective way to get up and running is just fix it. If youre already into it and pulling heads, could always try a port and polish on the heads and intake manifold. Searching the forums for a bit shows that a 3.0's biggest restriction is how it breathes.

So in short, I second the "fix the motor it has" vote.

 

[PanamaExpat]

Do the heads... Tear it down and then drop them off at a machine shop and have them do the valve guides, seats, and reseat the valves.... Most machine shops are 24 to 48 hour turn around. You should be completely done with fresh heads for less than $700 and about a total of one week downtime.

I am not dissing the V8 swap... Just those are not the cakewalk these guys would like you to think they are. You ARE going to run into unexpected issues... and it will take significantly longer and be far more expensive. Things like exhaust...motor mounts... wiring... possible bad donor motor or trans..... All waiting to jump up in your face and yell SURPRISE.

So fix her up as she is.... Then if you decide you want a V8 you are not in a hurry to try to locate and sort all the issues of putting one in your daily driver and have time to source the right stuff to do it later.

Remember on these new vehicles you don't just drop in a motor and or trans and hook up the hot wire to the coil anymore.

 

[Mark_88]

I agree with fixing what you have...much easier if you are not familiar with the matter of swapping engines...

If it is a project truck then you have time to do a V8 swap and work out all the problems...and learn quite a bit about working on Rangers...and that is worth more than just having a fixed vehicle sitting in your garage...you will have an "I DID IT"...

 

[hank857]

Yes go ahead and repair the heads, but 1st check the compression on the rest of them. If in limits fine, if not well then you are looking at a rebuild. Look into a long/short block jasper or whatever engine. I know they are available for the ohv 4.0 come with warranty etc. if you go this route you just have a drop in as the computer etc remain the same. Check autozone/orielly for prices they were about $2k when I looked for a 4.0.

If you just do heads make sure they are flat and not warped, may need a little milling while at shop. The 3.0 has never really been a goer engine, maybe lasts but that is about all it has to its credit. The engine swaps 8 or 6 sound good but as pointed out can be costly and time consuming UNLESS you have the entire donor vehicle to work with for wiring computers etc.

 

[PanamaExpat]

Yes go ahead and repair the heads, but 1st check the compression on the rest of them. If in limits fine, if not well then you are looking at a rebuild. Look into a long/short block jasper or whatever engine. I know they are available for the ohv 4.0 come with warranty etc. if you go this route you just have a drop in as the computer etc remain the same. Check autozone/orielly for prices they were about $2k when I looked for a 4.0.

If you just do heads make sure they are flat and not warped, may need a little milling while at shop. The 3.0 has never really been a goer engine, maybe lasts but that is about all it has to its credit. The engine swaps 8 or 6 sound good but as pointed out can be costly and time consuming UNLESS you have the entire donor vehicle to work with for wiring computers etc.

If you are going to pull the heads a compression check in advance could be performed but is really kind of pointless. After all unless the rings are broken or so far shot you would be hearing piston slap you will be fixing the primary loss of compression any how. Take off both heads and drop them at a machine shop for a complete valve job. Any machine shop worth its salt is going to verify the heads are not warped before putting the time to do the valve job anyhow.

Then do a god visual inspection of your cylinder bores. Take your fingernail and feel for the ridge at the top of the bore where the rings top out... Ideally on a modern engine you won't feel one. If you have any further doubts get out the gauges and measure the cylinders and check for roundness.

 

[hank857]

In a marginal engine yes you 'may hear' piston slap, but what is the concern in doing the compression test? It will give you a good indication that the lower end will accept the new compression that a complete valve job will give. If less than factory specs he is peeing in the wind to do a valve job just to realize he needs to go further. He knows one is bad, he has a poor performer so this is just another trouble shooting way to see what is actually happening. At 140K it should be fine, BUT, (there is always 1 of these), he could have other problems and how long does it take to do a comp test? About 30 mins with help and as you point out there could be bad rings to consider, would blow oil (not indicated in post) but it will be his choice correct. He is asking for help, he will make the decisions based on recommendations and that is all I gave him.

 

[adsm08]

Worn rings dont always mean piston slap. My first 2.9 was running out of rings, but didnt slap one bit. Wouldn't go up hills, but didnt slap.

Postin' from teh Galaxy

 

[Andy D]

Before you tear the engine apart,make sure you test it. Figure out why the cylinder is weak, If the other bank of cylinders, is OK why mess with it. Lap in a new valve and put the head back on. At 140K , the less you do, the better off you'll be.

 

[Chris_North]

I talked with a guy I know that has a 2000 Mountaineer today. It's got 130k miles on it, with a trans with 30k. He'd sell it for $1700, which seems very fair. I think I will look into it further, make sure it's in good shape, test drive it etc. Be nice just to feel how it drives.

I don't expect it to be simple or smooth, and to take several of my nights and many full days off to complete. That said, I'm still not convinced that it's the right move. $2000+ and hours upon hours later and I still have an old truck with an old (but bigger) engine. I have the money, sort of the time right now, but I still am not sure I can justify it to myself. I like a pickup, but besides needing some body work, I could much more easily hop into the Mercury and be on my way.



As far as swapping the heads, would it be any better as far as reliability than just swapping for another 3.0? I may have a small oil leak, but otherwise I don't think I burn oil. The exhaust sometimes smells dirty, like an incomplete fuel burn, but no oil smoke or smell. I get a rapid tapping when under load like attempting to climb a hill, and also occasionally get a loud "tack tack tack tack" noise that will not go away until the next day. I unplugged #3 fuel injector in an effort to save fuel, I'm not sure if that in combination with other things makes the computer try to compensate and screws things up more.

I am a bit confused as far as a compression test before hand. If just the valves were worn, wouldn't that also show low compression? I've rebuilt small engines before, so I have a little bit of an idea on what to look for as far as rings and such go, but if I were to pull the heads and see signs of worn rings and/or cylinders, where would I go from there? I like the idea of repairing heads, especially the labor involved on my part, but it looks to be more expensive than a full engine swap and I am worried about stressing something lower in the engine into letting loose. I suppose nothing is without its inherent risks, and the risks for all my options seem to be about the same.

Edit: I am really out of it tonight.

Before you tear the engine apart,make sure you test it. Figure out why the cylinder is weak, If the other bank of cylinders, is OK why mess with it. Lap in a new valve and put the head back on. At 140K , the less you do, the better off you'll be.

I will check the other side, but I got (can't confirm what was the cause) a cylinder 5 misfire a few times as well. My CEL has been on (obviously) for a very long time; I haven't been checking it. For all I know I could be down another cylinder. I guess I should do some more checking over the weekend. I'll run a full compression test barring number three. Normal range is what, about 130?